Doc,
Can you tell me how you got those decals to sit so nicely on the top curves of your RS3's? I tried that years ago, and I just could not get my Accucals to sit smoothly on those compound curves, no matter how much Solvaset/Microset/Microsol I used... I must've tried 3 or 4 times before finally giving up!
Unless the decals I'm using are particularily fragile, I either let them sit in a glass of water until the backing paper drops away, or I let them sit, wet, on a sheet of glass until they slide easily off the paper. I then dip them several times in water to remove any excess glue. Before placing the decal on the model, I wet the area with Microset, then plop the decal in place. It can be manoeuvred into place with tweezers, and lifted as necessary to get rid of major air bubbles. When I get it where I want it, I blot it with a clean hankerchief, then apply more Microset. When that has evaporated, I apply Solvaset, which usually does the trick. If there are raised ridges remaining where the decal has folded over itself on the curved contours after the Solvaset has dried, I apply a small amount of Solvaset to the problem areas, wait a few seconds until the decal re-softens slightly, then blot firmly with the clean hanky. This usually flattens things out, but it may also leave an imprint of the weave of the fabric, which I touch-up with a small brush and some matching Accupaint after the decal has dried.
I have to admit, though, that decalling has always been a hit-or-miss operation for me: they either go on great with almost no fuss, or I end-up with hundreds of tiny airbubbles trapped beneath the decal, and have to spend hours (literally) slitting them and applying more Solvaset. When it's a viable option, I much prefer dry transfers.
Wayne
:-D
