# Can you help me figure out how to map this out if you will from Oct MRR'r

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by who_dat73, Sep 18, 2007.

1. ### who_dat73Member

Hey been a while since I posted but I have need of some help from yall if you can..
I was looking in the new Oct. issue of Model RR'r and fell in love with the feature Great Northern layout in less then 7 square feet.
Now the questions?

[1] I have always freelanced my layout so when it says scale of
plan 2' = 1-'0", 12" grid what is that and how do I go about setting it up ? do I copy it on another piece of paper and make a grid of it??

[2] It is using a coockie cutter sub road bed frameup when I layout the cut lines do I only cut them as wide as my cork.

[3] in the layout drawing in the mag there are elevation markings on the track is that where the elevation starts and do you hold that elevation till you get to the next mark.

[4] On one set of sidings the starting turnout is set at 2" but as it goes in and makes a three way split it has no elevation markings is this set at 0" elevation

This is only the second layout I have ever built and the first on was a flat track plan but I did make a turn out on one part so I could expand later on and since this is portable I can take it to shows and what not and still hook into my plan at home with just a addition of a turn out in one corner when we arnt traveling:thumb: It just looks like a easy to build but still enuf things going on make it fun operation and if I can take it to differant events to get others intrested in modeling then all the better:mrgreen:
Thanks for any help and comments
Minnesota Mike
2. ### eightyeightfan1Now I'm AMP'd

Since I don't get MR anymore, I'll try to help from experience.

The 2'(I'm guessing you meant 2") = 1'. This is the scale of the drawing its self. That means that 2"s on the drawing will equal 1 real foot. The 12" grid means that the grid lines(like graph paper) each block equals 12" x 12". A 4' x 8' piece of plywood will have 32 of these blocks. This helps if you want to be exact in the plan, in placing track and structures.

When doing "cookie cutter" method of sub-roadbed, its always good to leave a little on each side of your cork. 1" and 1/2 each side is good for N scale( I use 2" each side on my HO). This helps when doing scenery work, and gives room for when doing the scenery base.

Without seeing the plan itself, thats as far as I can go. Maybe someone else can finish.
But I hope what I said helps.
3. ### 60103Pooh Bah

Mike:
[1] MR has managed to drop the grid lines from the drawings. As the scale is 2" to 1', the one foot grid should be every half inch. I suggest making a copy of the plan and drawing the grid on it. If you can copy it at 200%, you can draw the grid every inch; you could draw a grid every half inch for 6" squares. << nonsense. wall1
[2] For cookie cutter, you don't cut down to the trackbed only, you leave the bits at the side (at the lowest elevation for scenery).
It ca be done to cut down to the roadbed or roadbed +enough to add scenery. At a minimum, you should leave enough wood to support stations and trackside industries.
[3]&[4] Elevations are at that point and there should be a steady change to the next point. Keep any elevations level to end of sidings.
That said, I don't think much of the elevation changes on the outer loop. The climb from 0 to 1 in the bottom right corner looks far too steep. Lots of tracks plans have been printed with grades and switch locations that are impractical. This one looks good, especially since it has actually been built. I would really reduce the grades -- try to keep them under 1/4" per foot -- that's 2%. If you look at the picture 3, the higher ground only comes up to the platform on the diesel -- not a 2" difference.
4. ### who_dat73Member

So are you saying if I draw the grid on the mag size photo two inches on the page will be one foot on my board?? or maby a better question would be how big do I make my squares on the page and the board so we ?

I scanned the page then enlarged the plan 145 times before it started going off the page if that helps us

I have a horrible learning disabilty in math so I apoligize if it takes me a few tries to catch on to this but its nice to have everyones help.
Also if it is of any help I have a 1:12 N scale track template that I have been using to tinker around with track plan ideas can I use this to my advantage here ??
5. ### 60103Pooh Bah

No. Sorry. On the mag sized plan, one half inch will be one foot on your layout. One inch will be 6 inches.
Turn the page right angles before you enlarge it and you should be able to double the size before it goes off. At double size, one inch will be 12" and your 1:12 template will work.4 inches to one foot.
The larger you can blow up the plan, the easier it is to measure. If you are doing a lot of this work it may be worth investing in an architect's scale rule. These are triangular wooden (maybe plastic nowadays) with a bunch of different scales on them -- usually 4 to face but 2 are overlapped on an edge, say 1/4" and 1/2".
6. ### who_dat73Member

Good news went to the Club tonight and the one guy that was there helped me get past the mental block and helped me understand what all the numbers meen so as of now its a go:thumb:
7. ### who_dat73Member

Ok Lets see if I broke this down right
going from the mag example to the board size 2 inchs being = to 1 ft
mag page / board
2 inchs = 1 ft
1 inch = 6 inchs
1/2 inch = 3 inchs
1/4 inch = 1 1/2 inch
1/8 inch = 3/4 inch
Did I do this right??
8. ### 60103Pooh Bah

Mike: I think I've been posting nonsense.

I can now see the grid -- it's only tick maks at the side of the plan.