Discussion in 'FAQs' started by rockislandmike, Aug 25, 2002.

  1. rockislandmike

    rockislandmike Active Member

    The one thing that frustrates me to no end so far is putting together buildings. I've got two painted and ready to go - even put my own decals on one of 'em (and decals for the other are ready to go). But I have a heck of a time putting them together.......

    I use liquid plastic cement from Polly S. Any tips ??? Am I not holding the pieces together long enough. I hold them together until they support each other, 10-15 seconds, and then leave them for like an hour or so. Come back, and with just a little movement, the joint comes apart again.

    ACK !!!!
  2. Matt Probst

    Matt Probst Member

    Mike--Are these styrene kits? I've had decent success with plain ole Testors plastic model cement, though it's not the recommemded type usually. When all else fails try some CA!:D

    Matt--Hershey, Pa.
  3. Drew1125

    Drew1125 Active Member

    Hi Michael!
    I'm not familiar with Polly S cement...I assume it is for use on styrene...and that the kits you're building are styrene, & not some other type of plastic...?
    I've always used the old standby Testors liquid plastic cement for working with won't work on any other material. Also, styrene cement will not work on surfaces that have already been painted.
    I have a feeling that your problem is simply that the joint itself is not strong enough to support the weight of the pieces you're glueing together.
    The solution is to reinforce the joints by splicing them together with pieces of styrene (either scraps, or Evergreen Strip Styrene) on the inside of the structure. Corners can be reinforced with either square styrene strip, or triangular gussets cut from sheet, or scrap styrene. This will also help to square the corners, & make for very strong joints.
    Good Luck! I hope I've been of some help!

    p.s. could we see some pics of your new buildings?
  4. Vic

    Vic Active Member

    Yep, Testors Liquid Plastic Cement has been "the old standby" for years and years and years:) :)

    It's basicly acetone with a bit of mustard oil in it to keep the "sniffers" out of it!!:eek:

    Its kinda slow acting some times depending on the type of plastic...not all styrene is 100% virgin and has some recycled stuff in it too.

    If you apply some to both surfaces to be joined and then wait about 5-10 seconds before placing the pieces together it will usually grab and when dry will make a tight bond. By waiting a few seconds it gives the surfaces a chance to soften a bit and thus create a better joint.

    On more stubbon plastics I have had real good sucess with MEK
    (Methyl Ethel Ketone) which you can find in the paint dept of building supply places.
  5. farmer ron

    farmer ron Member

    Mike, I agree with the others, testors works great, also for some of the odd plastic buildings I use model airplane glue, just a thin bead, smoth it with a tooth pick, and hold together for a short time then place wiights beside it. Ron..
  6. t. alexander

    t. alexander Member

    I use the Ca glues almost exclusively when putting building walls together. I'll tack them together with some gap fill then put a drop or two of thin on, letting capilary action take over. the gussets charlie mentioned I use alot too.
    For sheet styrene I use Tenax-7R but sometimes I'll use this for kit walls also.

  7. Vic

    Vic Active Member


    The best way to choose the right kind of glue is to read the label on the package carefully.:)

    If the label says:
    1. All Purpose...It won't stick anything.
    2. Easy To Use...Will only stick your fingers together.
    3. For School Use...You'll need a PHD in Chemical Engineering.
    4. Harmful If Swallowed...No good if you're thirsty.
    5. Not For Use By Children Under 5...Too complicated.
    6. Mix Well...Will dry up before mixing is completed.
    7. Enviromentally Friendly...Was tested on a now extinct animal.
    8. User Friendly...The name of the guy that invented it.
    9. May Cause Brain Damage...This is the one you want. It works!!
    :D :p :D :p :D :p :D :p :D :p
  8. alkcnw

    alkcnw Member

    I'll have to vote for Testors, been using it forever!!!!!!:eek:
  9. marty w.

    marty w. Member

    I use Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement. I came up with this using the guide lines posted by Vic.:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

    If you paint your building's before assembly, make sure you remove the paint from the glue joint area. The paint will weaken the glue joint. I also add the gussets, as Charlie suggested with great results. This is IMHO a must for kit's by DPM.
  10. rockislandmike

    rockislandmike Active Member

    Thanks everyone; I'll have to pick up some Testors in the next couple of days. In the meantime, you guys were right, it was the glue. I had a tube of LePage plastic cement (the gooey type) - squeezed some onto an old paintbrush and used that instead - POOF the building stays together great . . . . .

    Should be able to finish weathering and installing same tonite.
  11. Woodie

    Woodie Active Member

    On plastic kits (both structures and rollingstock) I use the MEK stuff. Consitency of water, so leaves no residue. Just paint the edges with it, wack 'em together and hold for a minute. Quite a good bond and no glue residue or glumps. Doesn't even mess up the brush. It evaporates pretty quick so you've gotta be quick getting those edges together.

    For card kits I use the Humbrol Poly Cement (Butyl Acetate) from a small tube. Make a little puddle, then use a pin/toothpick to apply a small layer and spread it out. Sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.

    "end to end" pole/shaft etc glueing, I use superglue. Zap-a-gap (CA) stuff.
  12. If you build one of the newer resin kits, be forewarned that Testors, MEK, etc, will not work. You'll need to use ACC or 5-minute epoxy. Resin is impervious to the other cements and cannot be bonded with them.
  13. shamus

    shamus Registered Member

    I use "Plasticweld" which is used to glue Plastruct with, very strong stuff and leave the window open whilst using it otherwise it's just like having a hang over:D:D:D

  14. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    The other thing to check is that the joints butt up properly. Walls are usually OK, but rooves have weird angles on them and the castings may not come out right.
    I've got no solution to offer -- I have a 4 piece roof that's just lying there after it fell on the floor and it won't go back together. Maybe the MEK...

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