Building Uhu02's Enterprise

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by Rogerio Silva, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Before and after


    I'd like to show some "before and after" pics. I mean, before edge painting and after it. Just take a look on the improvement, but...
    DON'T DO IT AFTER THE PIECE IS GLUED TO ANOTHER, unless the seam is made by edges of the same piece.

    Attached Files:

  2. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    I was lost, but now I'm found

    My friend ShadowHawk

    If you did the "Oh nooo" routine, you can imagine me!sign1 After taking all the pieces of myself that had crumbled apart, I managed to start thinking about solutions. Yes, I used the "tipp-ex" thing, but the problem is that it's water-based, so it spreaded the paint even more.
    Trying to hold myself not to have a heart attack ("It's, UHU02 :inw:, it's STAR TREK, and it's my first model without tabs!"), I got calm enough to post that MAYDAY message here.
    Dude, I even thought of sanding the thing off. I thought of reprinting and rebuilding all the back part of both the nacelles. I even thought of buying a dremel-like tool:cry:.
    AND to make things worse, it's carnival, which means people only have minds for holidays and partying. Everything is closed. So, reprinting wouldn't be possible, because I use a printing service.:curse:
    But when the ZEALOT-ians:cool: came to my rescue, I distinctively heard "LET THERE BE LIGHT":thumb::mrgreen:, and it happened. I just did what they said, and I am SOOOO VERY THANKFUL TO THEM.
    And let me thank you and everyone else for following this thread. That's why I say all the time that I can't take the credits for it, because of all the good ideas, kind words and encouragement I have been receiving. I feel like it's a kind of team work here, because I never felt alone.
    You know what? We could start a "Zealot appreciation thread"!sign1
  3. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Edge colouring is important to hide the white paper on cut edges and joins.

    Personally, I use marker pens and watercolours. Which type, depends on the subject, and the position of the joint.
    Sometimes, I make the edge darker than the print colour, this enhances the join. Otherwise, use a LIGHTER colour than the print, if you want to 'blend' the joint. I say lighter because I have found that the glue darkens the hue slightly. I aslo colour the tabs along the colour edge too.

    As you correctly stated, do not use too much water when edge clolouring with watercolour pencils. The edge soaks up the moisture real quick, and when you run the pencil along it, the action will turn the edge to mush. The technique I use involves letting the TIP of the pencil soak in water for about 15 seconds, shake the water off, wait a minute, then colour the edge. BE CAREFUL as you apply, the tip of the pencil will be soft and release a lot of pigment quickly as a paste. I then lick my finger, or thumb, and GENTLY run it along the edge to blend the pigment into the fibers of the paper. I then lick my thumb and finger and run the paper between my thumb and finger, using gentle pressure, running away from the edge. See motion depicted in the photo.


    This helps to sharpen the edge and also remove any excess pigment on the print. The amount of moisture you need with your 'lick' depends on the print ink type. You want just enough to allow the moisture to pick up the excess pigment in your fingerprint, so to speak, but not damage the printed surface. The technique does work better on satin or glossy paper.
    Repeat the process as necessary. Of course, you could use a DAMP cloth to moisten your fingers instead of your tongue (I walked around the city for 2 hours a few months ago, with a blue tongue. :eek:sign1)
    Reload the tip of the pencil with moisture as required.
    Remember, you want the majority of the moisture in the pigment, not the paper.

    But, my best advice: PRACTICE!!!!! Until you get the feel for it. :cool:

    Good luck, and dont be afraid to ask!! :mrgreen:

    Oh, one other thing, edge colouring does add a heck of a lot of time to the build process, especially on intricate designs, as I well know with my current project: :mrgreen::rolleyes:

    See you around the Forum.

  4. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Now THAT'S what I call I very detailed class on edge-coloring. I'm speechless, DanBKing. All I can say is thank you, and I'll check your thread first thong tomorrow morning.
  5. micahrogers

    micahrogers Active Member

    My friend I am glad the repair worked, That is what is important, the model continues. Glad the suggestion helped. Just remember, we can only offer advice and counsel, You are the one doing the work.
    Good Job.
    Stand too, continue ships work.
  6. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Haven't I shown it?


    I was scrolling through the past posts, and I don't think I have properly detailed how far the arm bones go into the nacelle. Well, pardon me for this error, and here's the correction: the arm goes up till there's only one dark grey sector out of it.
    Remember? The dark grey goes into the nacelle, the white part goes into the body. Doing this, and by "fine tuning" it with the outer part of the arm, you'll assure the correct alignment of the nacelle.
    Here's a pic to better illustrate the arm introduction into the nacelle.

    Attached Files:

  7. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Lazy sunny day...


    Today I had to go out with my family. I just couldn't spend one more minute indoors:cry:!!
    The thing is, I'm not very fond of Carnival:-|, so I try to keep a very low profile... But staying inside of the house for days reminds me somewhat of a jailbird!:p
    Well, I managed to do something in the morning, before leaving. The attached photo shows it. Besides, remember pieces #88 and #89? They're the ones that close the back part of the outer arms (support to the nacelles).
    Well, since they're REALLY thin, I decided to laminate them, in order to make their glueing easier and stiffer. For the port nacelle, no problem, since I have not assembled it yet, but for the starboard one... Hmmm...:v8: My faithful hairspray can, don't fail me now!sign1
    I'll show it on the next post, if everything goes well.
    Bye for now!:wave::thumb:

    P.S. it's not so good, but she's a beauty, isn't she?

    Attached Files:

  8. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator

    I understand that you are still rather new to paper modeling as a whole, but you are in fact doing a GREAT job. I can not see any problems, mistakes, or anything else wrong with it.
    This model looks FANTASTIC!!!

    I hope you (and your family) ENJOY yourself at Carnival.
  9. loenf

    loenf Member

    Well done!

    Great model, good work! Are you going to build a stand for the model?
    I am looking forward to your next project. By the way, I also don't like carnival, but fotunately I live in a part of germany where Karneval is not so usual.

    regards loenf
  10. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member



    Buddy, you live in Germany? I intend to go there in a year or two, maybe I could see your amazing dioramas closely? And, of course, take lots of pictures and even make some short movies?
    Oh, boy, that would be great! :thumb:
    Oh, and answering your question: the great UHU02:inw: DID design a stand for it!:thumb:
  11. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Kind words

    My friend and Mentor Rhaven Blaack,

    Well, I'll give you that. It's beautiful, although I still have to line up the nacelles; one of them is tilted in relation to the other. They're not parallel yet, but they'll be.
    I'm doing that thing you once told me: if the piece is too small and/or thin, you can always laminate it to fulfill your needs. Problem is I only remembered your good advice AFTER I had glued it:cry:, and NOT sastified with the resultwall1.
    Using my faithful hairspray can and a cotton swab, I have deglued and laminated it, and here's the pic.
    I'll glue it back ASAP. Thanks for your good advice, and please, "keep it comin'"!
    All the best,


    Attached Files:

  12. ShadowHawk141

    ShadowHawk141 Member

    Rogerio my friend,

    Your Enterprise looks absolutely stunning !!!!!:thumb:

    You've done a fantastic job on this model and you have learned a lot along the way, what else can you ask for ? :)
    You're not the only one that learned though, by following your build I have picked up quite some tips and advices too, so I'll just surf along in your wake :)

    Greast job and I'm realy looking forward to see your next build.

    Can you post some showroom pictures of the Enterprise, you know from different sides ?
    Oh and make a nice stand like loenf said, she deserves it.

    We have carnival here in Holland but I don't like it at all, never did.
    Just a bunch of drunk people acting crazy.......

    Cheers and all the best my friend,
  13. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Sounds like a normal Saturday night in Amsterdam to me ..... sign1

    Your Enterprise looks GREAT Rogerio. Nice and crisp and clean build.
    WELL DONE!!!!
  14. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator

    I raise my mug of Romulan Ale aussieto you and toast your accomplishment of a FINE JOB WELL DONE!
    All in all, Your model looks FANTASTIC!!!

    I am looking forward to seeing what you do next.
  15. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Close, but no cigar!

    Thanks a lot, guys, but she's not finished yet! As I have said before: photos can be deceiving, so please take a look at it again, and you'll see that the port arm is still just bones...:rolleyes:
    The great UHU02:inw: HAS designed a beautiful stand for it; I'll just have to print it again, for I have ruined it by laminating it with cardboard (2mm wrinkled) paper. Never mind, I'll have it ready by tomorrow, and will take lots of pics.
    Almost there!:twisted:
  16. Rhaven Blaack

    Rhaven Blaack ADMINISTRATOR Administrator

    To close that gap in the support pylon, put a little glue in there and pinch it closed with a pair of tweezers or a clothespin.
  17. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    yes, yes...

    Yes, Rhaven, you're right as usual, but I have taken the piece out in order to laminate it. I'll put it back ASAP, and your suggesstion will be carried out.
    Meanwhile, I'm building a fast model just to relax and prepare to finish up "my precious"...sign1

    P.S. Thank you for the "pylon":thumb:. I just couldn't find the right word, so I was using "arm":cry:. But I guess there was no harm done.:mrgreen:
  18. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    What the f...rabbit?

    Sometimes you just have to put a work aside, and do other things, otherwise, everything may just go down the drain. I don't know about you, but I tend to get anxious when a model is coming to its completion, and it's inevitable to rush things up.
    Well, haste brings no perfection, but the opposite. Mistake rate goes up and up, and all you can do is calm down and take it easy. Or you can do something else, and that's my case. Hence the rabbit on the picture.
    It's a Holland Loop (I think) rabbit, designed by Ayumu Saito, free for download (with lots of other models) at
    Besides, this rabbit is a gift for a girl that works as a janitor in my company, just to show appreciation for her hard work. And she's seen how amazing paper models can be, and asked me to build her a rabbit... or a cat.
    I don't like cats, but do like the long-eared rodents:mrgreen:. And I promised her that I would give it to her after Carnival. You've gotta keep your promises:thumb:

    Attached Files:

  19. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member

    Back on track


    We're getting close to the end. All I have to do is build the outer cover of the port support pylon (Thanks, Mentor!), align the nacelles, and build the display stand. Unfortunately, the display stand will be ready only tomorrow, after I have it reprinted.
    If I didn't say it on the first time, then here it comes: you'd better fold the pieces of the outer pylons BEFORE cutting them (in my case, that's how it worked). Just like the pic below, which also shows the laminated back pieces.
    You can see the folds on the paper. Please take a look.

    Attached Files:

  20. Rogerio Silva

    Rogerio Silva Active Member



    OK, gap on the starboard nacelle pylon officially closed. After laminating the piece, the results were much better than the first time. Here are the before and after photos for comparison.
    The first pic shows how it was before lamination, and the second one is after it. The photos may not be so illustrative, but the closed gap now is a lot more smooth and even. Before, because of being too soft, part of the piece got "engulfed" by the two edges of the outer pylon. Besides, it was wrinkled too, creating another gap on its upper part. This has all been corrected now.:thumb:

    Attached Files:

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