Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by jnyoun, Apr 29, 2007.
Here comes the second mistake....
Well, those mistakes should be fine with me though. Once again, my family will not tell which parts are wrong. And, the ship looks good so far. I learned very valuable lesson this time.
Here is overall progress until now.... I will continue to building....
Can anybody help me to find a part? The part number is 102i that is supposed to be used in 120mm gun. The instruction shows this 102i partin the diagram. The part is basically gun itself. I could not find where in part sheets.
Here is the all the parts I could find regarding 120mm gun. You can see what is missing here. That is the part I am looking for...
I will appreciate your help...
Never mind. I found it in part sheet #2.
The model looks great! Unless you have an expert in your house, I doubt anyone will notice without you pointing your errors out! And yes, this hobby teaches you patience (or you'll probably give it up!). Great job, looking forward to seeing your progress!
Thanks for the encouragement. You are right. It asks a lot of patience and I found it pays well once I keep the patience.
It took me 2 hours to build one 120mm gun in above picture. I spent long time to figure out how it is supposed to integrate.
The edge are colored in black. Somehow the pictures shows 'bluelish'. I will do the finishing coat after finishing the building and I hope it come to black in camera.
In fact, I am wondering whether the edge coloring is needed. If needed, what is the best way to make clean coloring?
I use brush pens to do my touch up - much easier to handle and less mess.
Experts are able to pick colors exactly matching the parts but since I'm defacto color blind in this respect I just make sure that the color picked for the edge is lighter than the part itself. This helps to blend it in.
Don't know if my method is good or bad, but it works for me :roll:
As for the technique - after the part is cut out and formed I color the edge from the unpainted side of it. This way if my hand slips (and it does fairly often) all the mistakes will be on the side where the glue goes anyway. Then I glue the formed part and eventually do a light touch up if anything was missed and the white color still shows.
I have some progress today. Whew~~~~. It is getting harder and harder....
This took lots of time to build. However, I did it !!!:twisted:
Here is an overall picture so far...
I started this building with misunderstanding. I thought it might be easier to build if it is small. I mean 'compared to 1:200 scale USS-type ship'. As I progress and I am getting to understand how to build a ship, I realized that 'small' doesn't mean 'easy'. This 'onslow' has unbelievable details.
I am really working hard on this, but I may need to slow down a little bit... I also started to understand the meaning of 'the time frame to build a ship is not 'days', but 'weeks' or months'.
I felt that it may not be that hard to build a ship, but it is not easy to build a NICE one. I really want to make a 'NICE' one. I hope I haven't ruined the building that much so far. I like the amazing details of this ship. It is my hope not to miss any part.
Two thums up... Great ship....
I need some rest now....
That's fantastic! I couldn'tdo it at 1:200 let alone smaller without a major upgrade to my optics and a cure to "fat fingers"!
Keep on steaming.
Doing a great job! Those guns look great!!!
This model looks great JN. Who cares how long it takes. Personally I had to restart my PT-109 build 4 times from scratch before I was happy with the hull.
One suggestion - build the major structures, dry fit often to check fit, then attach to the model. IMO things go together better this way and if you have to correct an error only that stucture is affected. BTW the reinforcing on your 'Y' mount overhang appear to be on the wrong side.
Thanks for the valuable tips. Next time when I build another ship, I will start building major structure first.
Regarding the wrong side, there are several things I did wrong.
1. Chimmy : up side down. (black part should be upper).
2. 4 Torpedo(?): reversed (position of head and tail were reversed).
3. Rolling mat(?): Should be rolled several times (but I had only one roll).
4. And many others.
I realized those things after I attached. So, it was not possible to fix them without major surgery. Since this is my first trial to build a paper model, I am considering this building as an experience to get the necessary skills. So, for me, those errors are acceptable at this point.
By the way, what is 'Y' mount? I am not familar with the terminology used in war-ship. This is also a part I am trying to learn...
Your gun and others in the picture looks perfect for me.... I envy you.
It is not my gun, so I can't take credit for it. The first time I build a new type of model is always a learning experience. That's part of the fun for me. ENJOY This is my skill level . . . http://www.cardmodels.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7804&page=2
BTW - long story longer - the main armament (guns) are given letter letter designations. A mount being most forward and Z mount most aft. If mounts are removed during the life of the ship those remaining usually retain their original designation because position is also a consideration.
I hope this link helps you to understand the naming of gun mountings as fitted to "O" Class Destroyers:
Please persevere with the build - it is very good indeed
Good Morning Chief!
The letter 'Z' was never used in the R.N. to identify turrets or main armament mountings as this was used for a cruising state, Condition Zulu. Letters used were 'A', 'B', 'P', 'Q', 'X' and 'Y'.
Additionally the letters P and S in conjuction with a number, ie P1, P2, S1, S2 etc, were used to identify secondary armament mountings in some Battleships and Cruisers, but P and S indicated either location on the Port or Starboard side of the vessel.
The 4" AA mountings of a "Fiji" Class Cruiser illustrated in this link:
will show what I mean with P1 and S1 being the mountings furthest forward, port and starboard.
For a unique use of the letter 'Q', please see the attached link:-
Usually 'P' and 'Q' were used to identify midships turret fitted to many classes of WW1 Battleships and Battlecruisers.
In WW1 one R.N. Battleship had seven turrets,all on the centre-line, HMS AGINCOURT, the only one of her Class and days of the week were used to identify them - not letters!
Thanks for the good information.
A few questions,
What's a diameter for Mast? The template didn't show the number. Is it like 1mm or 2mm?
What's the best way to make a mast? Can I make it by rolling a paper? Or, any better idea?
Go by the look of the templates.
For the main mast use 1mm wire. personally I would go for the music wire available in different diameters from any hobby store. Not sure but I think that Home Depot carries something like that.
paper is rather usuitable here because it would be extremely difficult to roll such a long tube with this diameter and it would be prone to bending, breaks and so on.
Separate names with a comma.