6. Problems of achieving that perfect fit I was so happy with the way things had worked out so far, in my slow and ponderous way of doing things, that I immediately decided to glue the finished part of the back canopy on to the framework. Fitted beautifully, I thought. Big little mistake, though. Lesson learned here: Do not let yourself get carried away, and do not ever glue canopy parts on, other than as wholes, outer, middle and inner layers firmly joined! As it turned out, the outer layer, the first real covering stretch, did not want to join with the inner layer of the canopy at one little spot at the very back. Nothing doing by now. I could have fixed it by dry-fitting more carefully, and sanding the underlying structure. But now there will always be a little hump there on this model (not on the next I make, though, promise!). Otherwise everything seemed to fit very well indeed, and I was so happy about things going quickly for a change that I immediately (without taking photos even) started to add front parts of the outer covering as well, trying to remember Ron's and others' advice on how to achieve the best fit with joining strips. Soon, however, it became apparent that the framework, which I had made a tiny little bit of 1/2 a millimeter or so too thick, made the front parts not fit well at the bottom. The landing gear well simply stuck out too far below, and I couldn't sand away a lot of the internal markings there. For the first part glued on, I was so preoccupied with locating the proper places for making holes for the recharging plug, and for the switch (even managed to bungle that slightly, but not irreparably) that I glued it in at the top, before noticing the bad fit at the bottom. Here, I had to make and print small enlargements of the same pattern, and butt-glue them with a thin strip of copy paper on the back side. Worked fine, but stupid mistake. Do not ever glue anything in until completely dryfitting it, not one but many times! For the rest of the front parts, I was real careful about dry-fitting them, measuring how many millimeters were missing on each side, and then simply went back into the computer and added those millimeters, invisibly clone-stamped to the same patttern as the adjoining parts. Lessons learned here: 1. Do not make frame members too thick. Many unexpected things may get distorted further on. 2. Even some semi-serious mistakes can be repaired if you are prepared to go back into the computer and print new, adjusted parts. This later lesson was soon to come in handy, with a vengeance.