Build: Halinski P40-E

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by eddie_brunette, Oct 5, 2007.

  1. Hi, this is my first build on a Halinski kit:)

    Any suggestons, please feel free, as I was a plastic modeller and this hobby is quite new to me.

    I'm also a accomplished simmer (online & offline) and deceided to fly a Historic AVG Campaign to get a into the right mindset for this kit. I downed a Ki-43 (one of my favourite planes!) when our base got attacked. One thing I noticed is that the P40 overheats very quickly and that really hampers you in dogfights, I wonder if this was true in real life, anybody knows?
    (Game: IL2 Forgotten Battles, full realism and all the goodies ex: joystick, rudder pedals, trim wheels etc)

    Pics coming.......
  2. Here is the no.1 parts. You will notice the floor is lifting, where I glued it to the former. To fix this I've put some superglue to the edges and sanded it smooth(works a charm) as you will notice i P1270605.jpg



    P1270608.jpg n later pics
  3. ok sorry for posting it twice
  4. here is the top part of cockpit with rudder pedals. no problems up to now.


  5. I will work over the weekend and post more on Monday, aswell a full report on my AVG antics, with some historic info for you.

    Now to hope the Kimster can upset those McLaren McCheaties over the week end.
  6. dansls1

    dansls1 Member

    Looks like a good start! I'm finishing my current build and going to do one more before I jump into my Halinski's, they are a little daunting.
  7. exzealot

    exzealot Member

    Hi Eddie,

    I have been noticing several people discussing the problem of how to glue paper to cardboard successfully without lifting and/or warping. My secret is to use DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. Ignore the instructions on the can. Simply brush a thin coat of cement on the cardboard, and then before it dries, place the paper on the cardboard and quickly scoot it around until placed where you want it. Rub it down until any bubbles are gone. This results in a perfectly flat and non-warped part. The beautiful part is that when you cut through this with a knife, the paper sticks to the cardboard without separating. Only drawback: Contact cement creates nasty fumes.
  8. cockpit with chair, joystick etc. please note that most of the stuff is scratch build, dont see chance to cut such little pieces out of paper.


  9. here with left cockpit wall, please note that cockpit wall is not finished yet and were just dry fitting.


  10. further development on my first try with paper models.

    :lol: must state that I absolutely love the way these kits assemble, like building the real thing, not assembling to halves to each other like plastic ones:lol:
    this the latest. started to use the scalpel now, but more practice is required :) luckily I scanned the kit to make sure I don't destroy the original.

    I tried the "cockpit skin" last night, but the alignment was a little out, so i had to rip it off again :( you can see the remains where I ripped it of the body :)

    I decided to do the whole skeleton before skinning to make sure the alignment stays the same.

    You'll probably start to recognize the shape of the P40.

    please any suggestions please feel free, as you can see my cutting skills still sucks, but I'm a firm believer in trying :)




  11. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Looks great to me so far! Only suggestion is to color some edges. I see some white edges in there and they really draw attention when they shouldnt. Usually you want to color them before assembly. Looks great though!
  12. tx for the tip, i actually told my wife last night i need paint for these touch-ups. can use my old plastic modeling paint? not to sure how it goes with paper, but for sure touching up the edges was bothering me last night :idea:
  13. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

    Since this is your first card model - advice repeated in all Maly Modelarz kits I grew up with "Dryfit everything three times before applying any glue"

    If I might suggest anything, take very fine sandpaper and smoothen the edges of formers to avoid any nasty surprises during the skin assembly.
    In those kits designer did not leave any room for errors......
  14. tx, yes please any suggestons, always welcome. i'm going "accesories shopping" this afternoon and fine sandpaper, touch-up paint are high on the list.

    please tell me if i'n wrong, but i deceided to build the whole skeleton with wings skeltons attaced before i cover with the skins. is this the right way to approach this, as im scared of the alignment
  15. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

  16. milenio3

    milenio3 Active Member

    Hey, Eddie, what kind of cardboard did you use for the formers and skeletons? Being your first one, I wonder if that material is working for you as expected.

    And I second Michael on going to the other forums and try to mimic some building processes. I've done it with excellent results.

  17. geez mine suck compared to them, but luckely I scanned, so I still have original to do it right, but thanks for the links, gonna help me much
  18. I got 1mm thick from art shop. basically the same cardboard that is used for the cover of schoolbooks(black cover)
  19. shoki2000

    shoki2000 Active Member

    Don't worry about that - this is your first model and those guys are probably the best modelers around...
    Important thing is having fun while building :thumb:

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