Build: Goodyear F2G Super Corsair, 1:32, Gremir

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by rlwhitt, Jan 27, 2007.

  1. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    No Rick you've got it right. You'll see when installing the fuselage skin behind the cockpit that it is a little taller than around the cockpit tub itself. As for the Control stick you did just fine. I cut it a little shorter than in the diagram and basically glued it parallel to the floor but whatever works! As for the cockpit seat I realized that I goofed on the 1949 version. It was just a tub that held the parachute. I have pics of the post restoration version and it looks just like I've designed I just made an assumption (always a bad idea) that the seat pads for the 1949 version would just be leather not cloth.

    There are 3 small mistakes that I see (very tiny and I hate to point them out since everything looks so good) you put the stick grip on backwards (the red rectangle is the trigger) and as you can see in the attatched pics the stick should have been painted white, and finally the butt cushion sits a little farther back under the back cushion.

    Rick it looks far better than mine does and I think I'll send you my entire set of reference pics so you can make this model as good a you are are capable of. I'm in awe of what you're doing.

    Attached Files:

    • 9.jpg
      File size:
      83.6 KB
    • 10.jpg
      File size:
      141.1 KB
    • 29.jpg
      File size:
      96.6 KB
  2. Clashster

    Clashster Member

    Yeah! Pictures! Looks great, Rick! This is definately added to the list of "must gets", so I am watching with great anticipation! Another great start to a project!

  3. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    Rick hopefully this helps a little to.


    Note how the rear deck behind the cockpit is a little higher than the canopy rails? Near as I can tell from your pics you built it right.

    When wrapping the skin (part D4) around the tub only glue the edges. If you put glue in the middle of the part it will show through. Also be careful handling this part too much as the floor of the cockpit will start creasing the skin.
  4. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    I wondered about that one and it seemed if I pushed it further back it made the seatback recline too much. Oh well...

    About the white stick. I'm afraid my default behaviour is to paint anything I don't know about black or gray! I'm not much of a student of real aircraft - yet - but hopefully I'm learning!

  5. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    The cushion is designed to sit down in the bottom of the seat and that keeps it from reclining the seat too much. I just emailed you a bunch of reference pics that hopefully will help.
  6. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    I wondered if that was it, but the diagram makes it appear that it sits on top.

    Thanks for all the pics! Honestly I don't know if I'll end up doing anything beyond what's provided stock, but they are certainly interesting to look at!

  7. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Finishing up the cockpit stuff, we build the rudder pedals assembly and stuff it between the 2 formers shown here. Be warned to have a sharp blade and steady hand when cutting the pedal parts! It works well when you're careful, but I ruined my first attempt not being careful. Good thing about electronic models - unlimited mulligans!

    Sorry, I didn't make a picture of the pedals themselves. :(

    Attached Files:

  8. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    These parts form the rest of the glue strips around the cockpit. The big one makes the inner wall of the forward part of the cockpit around the rudder pedals.

    Attached Files:

  9. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    The previous bits installed. As you can see here, I've not gotten things very smoothly assembled. My fault, not design, I think I was in too big a hurry. As long as it does not ripple out to the outer skin, I'll not be too worried...

    Attached Files:

  10. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Next up, we start with some skin parts. This is where I always start to get the nervous shakes! I made a picture here of the 3 parts to go on next.

    A few notes about my aberrant behaviour at this point, highlighted with blue circles on this picture:

    On the top part, which is the first part of skin to go on, I'm just noting the place where you need to score the part to form both the canopy sill and the little black part that folds down into the cockpit. Also note here the part gets a little thin, so I reinforced it with a smear of CA on the back before I cut it out.

    Next part has 2 circles, one is a flap that needs a score and fold, which is probably obvious to folks smarter than me (I made a test build on these parts before I realized some of this stuff - doh!), the other highlights the part of this section that gets joined together. I decided I needed a litle joining strip here to make me feel all warm and fuzzy, so that's what I did!

    The last thing I circled was my idea that I'd prefer to cut the big join strip in two and join the skin into a circle first with the left part, and then add the tab strip. It's been my experience that this works better, but apparently Will outsmarted me on this one. My test build (with the strip in one piece, glued on first, then rolled with the skin) actually fit a slight bit better. Oh well....

    Attached Files:

  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    OK, enough obsessing, put on the first part of skin. It's tight, just enough material to get both sills in place, so be careful here. Like Will suggested in his thread, I'd say put glue ONLY on the sill area at the top. It's plenty, plus it'll allow a tiny bit of fudge factor if you need to shift this skin fore/aft to meet the next parts to go on. Like the sign says, "Experimental". :)

    Note that I've painted the joining strips with red color to help eliminate possible white "show though". I've also just about changed over at this point to using acrylic paint for edge color rather than using felt markers. I'm getting really frustrated with bleeding and not being able to get into tight spaces. This is going to mean more learning to mix colors...

    Attached Files:

  12. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    The next 2 segments are joined together before putting them on. I forgot to take a pic of the "real" parts - these are my test build parts.

    Attached Files:

  13. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    The ready parts slide up onto the rest of the assembly so far, taking care to get it centered properly at the top. I did not get quite a perfect registration of pattern here as can be seen at the forward seam. Not suprising for me, I'll have to admit. :(

    Also, some may be wondering by now why my model is not nice and shiny like this plane is supposed to be. I've tried spraying parts sheets with gloss laquer prior to assembly and I just don't like the feel. So I'll be glossing this one once primary assembly is done.

    Attached Files:

  14. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    I kind of think that it's the other way around Carl. The builder can level the charge of bad design against the designer especially considering the hack I am at building and the proficiency Rick has exhibited in his past builds and the exceptionally clean nature of this build thus far. Very nice work.
  15. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Oh, you don't know how right you are! I'm on pins and needles here under Will's watchful eye! I just know I'm screwing up about half of what I'm doing here. But I think it'll be an interesting interaction in the end!


  16. Prowler901

    Prowler901 Member

    Super work so far Rick! I think you underestimate your skills. You've done a cracking good job on all the builds I watched so far. I'm sure this one will turn out just great :)

    @ Will - beautiful model design. I must also add this to my todo list.

  17. cmdrted

    cmdrted Active Member

    Rick, if you're going to use acrylics a decenct source of every color known to man is the Arts/crafts stores. The acryllic they use for stenciling is perfect. You can drop a dab on a palette and a drop of "high quality H2O" and trim up. Sometimes you can catch some specials and get 5/1.00. Anybodies brand is good for card modelling, they dry dead flat though, but a final spary coat blends them in nice. I used to use these alot, but my collection of colors was like, bewildering, they weren't too portable, so I dropped back to pencils.
  18. David H

    David H Member

    Fantastic and inspirational!

    When I grow up I want to build quickly and accurately!

  19. milenio3

    milenio3 Active Member

    Congratulations, Rick, for this great thread. Indeed you are brave, my friend.

    Let's see, learn and awe.
  20. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Wing Spars

    Next we need to put in the main wing spars - here they is:

    Attached Files:

Share This Page