Bridge question

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by ClarkW, Jan 2, 2006.

  1. ClarkW

    ClarkW New Member


    I have a question about bridges. I have a short girder bridge (65') on an incline with a curve going into it and another curve coming our of it. Currently I have the bridge set level (horizontal) but am having problems with the transion from the incline to the level.

    Do I need to modify the incline, or set the bridge on the same incline as the rest of the track?

    I am also having a problem with the Atlas (recommended) girder bridge. There are gussets on the inside of the bridge going from close to the track to the side girders. As this bridge has a curve going into it and another curve coming our of it, I have a problem with some of the cars as they swing out (due to the curve) as some of the car steps contact the gussets stopping everything. The easy answer to this is to remove the gussets, but with this bridge, the girders will not have any support and will be quite wobbly. I have looked at the Walthers catalog and most of the girder bridge kits they have are a LOT longer than I need. Where can I find a decent short girder bridge? Can I purchase a to long bridge kit, shorten it and still have it look acceptable.

    I am using flex track for the rest of the layout (code 83).

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions/help.

  2. jim currie

    jim currie Active Member

    IMO stay with the grade as for the cars hitting you could split the deck and add a few feet to it .
  3. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Don't change the grade at the bridge.
    Can you turn the bridge over so that the girders go under the track? You may have to do some sort of detailing on the (former) bottom of the deck.
  4. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I would put the bridge on the same grade as the rest of the layout at that point. Can you squeeze in a couple of inches of extra straight track? I'm thinking one inch of straight track at each end of the bridge would solve the problem of the cars hitting the girder braces.
  5. zedob

    zedob Member

    Hi Clark,

    I wouldn't worry about cutting down the gussets, just take away what would otherwise interfere. My mainline crosses a Central valley double through girder bridge while transitioning out of a curve. The bridge in the pic is barely held together by "tack" gluing. I have yet to add the gussets, but it will not fall apart from train weight.

    Those molded girder bridges from Atlas are tough(unless you have some new flimsy one that I haven't seen). I've hacked all kinds of short bridges and under-passes out of them and you really have to lean on them to break them.

    For short underpasses or creek hoppers, I like to purchase n-scale PGBs and cut the girders off of the base then cut to length. The rivet detail is not bad at all.

    Attached Files:

  6. eightyeightfan1

    eightyeightfan1 Now I'm AMP'd

    Micro Engineering has some deck bridges that are pretty nice. By the looks of the pics, nothing is permanent. You might want to think about repalcing those with some deck bridges.
    I'd keep those though. They might come in handy somewhere else.
    I did turn an Atlas Warren Truss bridge into a road bridge once.
  7. Pitchwife

    Pitchwife Dreamer

    Greetings Clark, welcome to the Gauge. :wave:
    This is getting really spooky. My name is Clark, middle initial W and last initial is A. There is a ClarkA on the Gauge, although that's just his screen name, and now a ClarkW. :eek: :eek: What are the odds of that? :D :D

    re: the bridge gussets, I wouldn't worry about them. They are more for show than for actual structural integrity. As Russ says, if you are able to squeeze an inch of straight track on either end it will probably improve your handling on that section.

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