Bowser steam engines

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by bigsteel, Dec 10, 2007.

  1. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    The catalogue shows both the blind drivers and the flanged drivers as being the same diameter (not that that necessarily means much) :rolleyes: - perhaps the bearing seats in the frame are deeper where the blind drivers are installed. If this is so, new drivers won't be any better for touching the rails. Check your loco's frame before you order new drivers - you could use brass shimstock, in the appropriate thickness, to fix this problem, although the exact method would depend on the bearing style.

  2. ed acosta

    ed acosta Member

    After some internet searching I found a close-up photo of the I-1 decapod drive wheels and it is clear that only the third (middle) axle has blind drivers. So, if I replace the 2nd and 4th axles (18080 blind drivers) with 18000 axles (flanged drivers) I'll have a correct configuration on my Bowser model except that the tires on the middle axle will not be touching the rail. I can ignore that small detail!

    -Ed tbdrivers.jpg
  3. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    That's the I-1 at Buffalo.
    I'd seriously check on this stuff with some people whom bleed tuscan red.
  4. bigsteel

    bigsteel Call me Mr.Tinkertrain

    well,i've settled on the USRA light mikado as a starter from comes with the super detail kit :thumb: so by the pictures it rivals brass.and for 135.00 bucks i cant find anywhere that beats itll be a christmas present from the wife :mrgreen: (which i really dont think is a fair trade for a new necklace :rolleyes: ) so stay tuned folks for the update to my acquisition of my first bowser super detailed engine :thumb:.--josh
  5. ocalicreek

    ocalicreek Member

    Ditto to NKP174's and Wayne's suggestions, especially Waynes, as I think that'll most affect the operating characteristics of the model, regardless of what the prototype did. That said, the prototype modifications usually have some bearing (no pun intended) on how we balance and equalize our locos. This was big in the 60's-70's, especially around the time Odegard did his brass scratchbuild articles. Springing your drivers may be a better solution for the best traction, but will involve a lot more work. Shimming could work just fine...but if you have grades to deal with and a long, rigid wheelbase loco, the vertical curves at either end of the grade may cause you more trouble. Springing will possibly avoid some of that, and make curves easier as well by providing a bit more give when necessary.
  6. ocalicreek

    ocalicreek Member

    Looks like we were typing/posting at the same time...good luck with the kit whenever you get it, and please keep us all posted on your progress!
  7. puddlejumper

    puddlejumper Member

    Naw, a lot of us bleed DGLE.:rolleyes:

    But sorry, I don't know the correct answer. I do seem to recall the three center drivers were blind. I must be getting old, instead of saying "This is the way they did it"... I find myself saying "I seem to recall... but I'm not sure...":mrgreen:

  8. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    That certainly makes more sense that what I thought I saw. :rolleyes: :oops: :-D

    Good point, Galen, especially with such a long rigid wheelbase. NorthWest Short Line offers a variety of loco springs, but note that for applications other than obtaining matching replacements for factory-installed springs, their softest (they call them "wimpy") springs would probably be the best choice. Most model driver springs are so stiff, given the weight of the loco, that they might as well be rigid.

    Heck, I seldom can recall correctly, and it appears that I don't see too well, either! :rolleyes:;):-D

  9. Haha, about the Bigger said you wanted to see the prototype.

    THERE ISN'T ONE! No boiler back then could have produced enough power/steam to drive that and still get decent power out of it! Not without going BOOM in a HUGE way, that is...

    Nowadays, it *might* be possible with the newer materials and stuff, but still highly unlikely to have enough power to pull anything more than maybe a short passenger train.

    And as for the 18" radius, as long as the Bowser Big Boy can, so can this. I'm just basically turning the tenders into their own locos and using drawbars to connect them to the "boiler."
  10. HOseeker

    HOseeker New Member

    Bowser 4-8-8-4

    I think Bowser recently discontinued production of their 4-8-8-4 Big Boys Kits. The last time I visited the Bowsers website it said discontinued when I looked up this kit.
    HO Train Reference and Resource Site
  11. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

  12. ed acosta

    ed acosta Member

    So Bowser discontinued the Big Boy. That doesn't mean that the monstrous project must come to a tragic conclusion. All it means is that the project must be scaled down a bit to use three Challenger
    4-6-6-4s which are still in production!

    I want to see step-by-step photos!
  13. puddlejumper

    puddlejumper Member

    Or cut up a Rivarossi or Athearn.:mrgreen:

  14. They probably still make the drivers for the Big Boy kits, so I could just get two Challengers and hack them up...

    BTW it would take two kits because it uses TWO tenders.
  15. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    They sell the tenders on the a la carte...which would save $100+
  16. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I don't think Bowser ever sold the tenders for the Big Boy. If I remember correctly, Bowser just sold wheel sets, trucks, and a tender frame for the Big Boy. You had to buy one of the cheap Monogram static display models of the Big Boy and use the tender body from that kit to make your tender. I think the same procedure was used for the tender with the Bowser Challenger. I'm not sure if any of the other manufacturers of Big Boys or Challengers offers their tender separately or not.
  17. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    You are correct in that they never did offer the centipede tender. Instead they always sold a semi-vanderbilt tender to use with them. If I remember correctly, the tender is correct for the early Challengers...but not the Big Boys. They do sell the tank part of the tender separately...but you monogram tender suggestion would probably make more sense for this kit bash.
  18. wilbro47

    wilbro47 New Member

    A customer used to come into the local hobby shop and buy smoke units for his Bowser kits. Has anyone added smoke units? I have never built one myself but I can see tremendous advantages over plastic. Years ago, I had a couple of Mantuas' and really liked them except for lack of detail. But I have questions about Bowser kits. What if I wanted to add sound? How hard would that be? I'm really looking at the b6 0-6-0 but what other RR used them? Thanks for your time.
  19. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    If the tender is hollow, which I believe they are, then it might be easier than other locomotives to add sound...since you don't have to disassemble it. Of course, building it is more work than disassembling most rtr locomotives.

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