Blown paint job - how to remove?

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by ppowell, Feb 19, 2004.

  1. ppowell

    ppowell New Member

    Well I managed to totally screw up the wood decks of my Tichy flat cars I'm putting together. I had a nice wood deck until I applied my black "wash" which turned out not to be a wash after all. Now I need to start over. Is there a good way to remove the paint I already applied? I've heard soaking it in brake fluid?

  2. shamus

    shamus Registered Member

    Are we talking Plastic or Wood, if its plastic then brake fluid will get it off, but will take a while. If its wood, scrape it off with a craft knife, but be gentle.
  3. ppowell

    ppowell New Member

    It's plastic. How about a rag dipped in paint thinner and then vigorously rubbed on the deck? Perhaps all the paint won't come off but enough that I can start afresh?
  4. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

    What kind of paint did you use?

    I would start off with something gentle such as alcohol and see if that doesn't take a lot off. I find that it even works on acrylics. I have followed that up with some non solvent-based remover like De-Solv-It and a Scotchbrite pad. Oil-based paint will take a bit more work.
  5. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

    DO NOT use thinner. Been there done that and ruined a nice model.
  6. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    WARNING Lacquer thinner melts most plastics. FRED
  7. ppowell

    ppowell New Member

    I used both Floquil and Poly S on the model. I was planning to use non-Lacquer paint thinner :)
  8. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I have used 90% rubbing alcohol to remove those paints in the past. It's at walmart for $1 a pint. They also have 70% in quarts for $1 but it takes longer. FRED
  9. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

    Some enamel reducers will will melt plastic also.
    I would try it out on a scrap of plastic just to be safe.
  10. ezdays

    ezdays Out AZ way

    Ray and Fred,

    Agree, any solvent-based thinner will screw up the finish and even melt the plastic. Acetone works best, but I wouldn't recommend it unless someone were in dire need and had little to lose if they ruined the piece.

    I have had very good luck using alcohol with acrylic paint. I'd hate to tell you how many times I've painted over a plastic kit to get the finish I wanted, then finally taking the paint off and starting all over again.:oops: :oops: The De-Solv-It and Scotchbrite pad gets the residual that the alcohol missed and will not hurt the plastic.:thumb: :thumb: Goop-off is a solvent and I wouldn't use it for this. You can find De-Solv-It in most hardware stores. I found some Scotchbrite-like pads at the 99 cent store.
  11. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    I agree, anything you try( including what I told you) should be tried out on a painted sprue from the kit first just in case. You never know, and it's the scientific method FRED;)
  12. Glen Haasdyk

    Glen Haasdyk Active Member

    Here's two different (and slightly less toxic )ways of getting the paint off. Easy-off oven cleaner or Pine-soll cleaner. I've used both to take paint off model car paint jobs that I've screwed up. Get the oven cleaner that comes in the squirt bottle, not the aerosol can, it's safer on your model's plastic. Pine-sol will generaly take the paint off, just dunk the model into the cleaner and let it sit for about half an hour. Scrub with an old toothbrush and repaeat as nessasary. This also eliminates the fumes given off by brake fluid. Hope this helps
  13. Vic

    Vic Active Member

    How about a different approach or two....

    1. Maybe just add a real wood deck over the plastic one.

    2. Just repaint the deck with Testors Wood enamel (the kind that comes in the little square bottles)....then after its set for an hour or so use a stiff brush and black chalk and scrub the black chalk into the paint...makes plastic look like weathered wood.
  14. ppowell

    ppowell New Member

    Vic, suggestion no. 2 is sorta what I did. I tried stripping the paint with alcohol but all I managed to do is get the top layer of black off that ruined the model in the first place. However this worked well because it exposed some of the brown wood color below.

    It was still too dark so I gave it a couple heavy washes with Testors regular old brown color that comes in those little bottles. That brightened it up and now it looks satisfactory. I think I'll give another wash of brown and then try the black chalk like you suggest.

    Thanks for everyones help!!!
  15. railwaybob

    railwaybob Member

    One of the MR paint manufacturers makes a paint remover that will remove paint but won't harm the plastic. It should be available at your LHS. You should first test it on a part of your work that isn't obvious to make sure that it won't melt the plastic.
  16. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    The product is "Scale Coat Wash Away or Rinse Away" I can't remember exactly. It works great on Athearn. It will disolve the plastic used in Kato models. I don't know how Tichy would fare.

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