Better acrylic paints...Cheaper!!

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks' started by abutt, Feb 14, 2006.

  1. abutt

    abutt Member

    Maybe I'm the last to discover these things...but I've found acrylic paints at less then half the popular brands, like Tamiya or Scalecoat. These are the paints that crafts hobbiest are using. I found Delta brand at less that one dollar for a 2-ounce bottle (Walmart @ .79 cents, my local craft dealer at $.99 a bottle) on top of that, more color selections than anyone could want.

    I haven't tried them for airbrush yet, but I intend to. But for brushing on craft buildings they're wonderful. Another brand, Apple Barrel at Walmart is touted by Bar-Mills kits. Try them, you'll be happy.:)

  2. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

    Same here Allan, the local Dollarama has lots of colours and all for only $1.00 CDN.
  3. FrankG

    FrankG Member

    I've had some issues with those acrylics....both brushing and airbrushing them. Once they dry on standard styrene kits, they scratch off VERY easily. As if they're just not adhering properly to the plastic. This isn't an issue with mold release or something like that. But just not getting the same relatively permanent finish you would get with model acrylics. I've also tried this with various amounts of thinning. Any one else have this issue or know how to correct it?
  4. TomPM

    TomPM Another Fried Egg Fan

    I have been using the craft paints such as Cream Coat and Folk Art for several years now. I use them with an airbrush or I brush them on.

    To stop the scratching off I seal them with Dullcoat. I also generally Dullcoat any plastic that is shiny or slick before I paint them. In many cases I paint a primer coat of a light gray color and seal it before I paint the final coat. On a few stubborn cases I used an automotive primer before painting with the final colors of craft.

    I use the automotive primer on all metal castings before painting with the craft paints. The scratching off is a real problem with metal castings if you don’t.

    Take a look at this Academy post: Airbrushing with Craft Paints
  5. ScottyB

    ScottyB Member

    The Hobby Lobby by me has some of those acrylics for 44 cents. I grab a few different colors every time I am there, but now it looks as though I am stockpiling them!

    I just seal mine with a THIN coat of either dullcoat or flat clear Krylon spray paint (I am convinced the spray paint is just as good and is WAY cheaper.)
  6. spookman

    spookman Member

    Frank it is probably a matter of preperation. Acrylic paints should not be painted on bare surface. You need a couple coats of Gesso to make the paint stick. Then finish with acrylic varnish or crystal clear spray. When it's done it is hard as nails and no getting it off.
  7. lester perry

    lester perry Active Member

    How do you keep the detail in casting with all those coats of preperation, painting and finishing.
  8. spookman

    spookman Member

    Lester I edited my post above. painting on models I realized you do not need the sealers. I am used to doing this on wood as my main hobby is hand carved folkart lures. You would have to mix the Gesso very thin. It dilutes with water.
  9. eleewhm

    eleewhm Member

    new to this....also going to use acrylic paint for landscape etc....but typically how much is enough when using a rush to paint....
  10. abutt

    abutt Member

    eleewhm...Would like to give you an answer, but am not sure what your question is? Maybe try again.

  11. eleewhm

    eleewhm Member

    opps... mind was away...

    i was wondering how much is enough when using a brush....or do you guys apply a couple of coats of paint...

    i am going to do my landscape first before i lay the tracks....going for KATO ones..
  12. Will_annand

    Will_annand Active Member

    For structures I use the Dollarama Acrylic paints on my stuff. Thinned with my "India ink/rubbing alcohol" weathering mixture. Have painted right on wood and DPM styrene. Then once the final touch up has been done, a quick spray of Dollarama "Clear Acrylic Sealer - Matte" and it is ready to go.

    Depending on the effect I want, sometimes 1 coat will cover, on the rural wooden kits I am doing now, I used a semi-dry brush technique to put on black ink. Then painted a full coat of Tan over it. The result was a weathered looking wooden structure.
  13. Catt

    Catt Guest

    I've noticed that a quick dose of a flat finnish (I don'ty use dull-coat anymore to darned expencive) on my styrene scratch building projects seems to give the craft type acrylics a much better surface to adhere to.

    By the way my current favorite brick red colours are 611 Barnyard Red by FolkArt and Anita's 11025 Rust Red.
  14. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    Just a heads up on the use of dull coat with craft paints. If you use water to thin the craft acrylics, then shoot dull coat to seal them, the dull coat may turn milky. If you are using isopropal (rubbing) alcohol to thin them, check your bottle, if it is 70% alcohol, it is 30% water. If it is 90% alcohol, it is still 10% water. Dull coat is a laquer base product. If you use a water based acrylic flat finish, you won't have the problem. If you want to use dull coat, I think a better thinner for water based acrylic paints is denatured alcohol sold in the paint dept as a thinner in paint and home improvement stores.
  15. abutt

    abutt Member

    Landscape painting

    eleewhn...I think we're talking about two things in this thread! For landscape painting, that is the paint I use over the final coat of plaster, I brush on a flat house trim acrylic water-based paint in a neutral or beige color. This coats everything. While it's wet you can sprinkle various earth or grass color dry pigment from the scenic people. When the paint drys you've got a pretty good start on landscape ready for final detail. This is not new, but becoming the accepted way to do scenery. The best thing about this technique is that it's water based and clean-up is easy. Try it, you'll like it.


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