benchwork decision

Discussion in 'G / O / S Scale Model Trains' started by don pedro, Jan 19, 2007.

  1. don pedro

    don pedro New Member

    I'm in the process of benchwork planning. my decision is based on two choices; "open grid or l-girder". I'm working with a company called "mianne", I guess they are considered "open grid" but my concern is that they recomend that risers be built on the plywood top where as all the books recomend building on the joists. any help would be appreciated in pointing me in the right direction. note; room layout is 18X13 if thats important.
  2. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    Good question, I would be interested in knowing too.

  3. Geno

    Geno Member

    It all depends on what type of scenery you're planning to go with- if you're going to build it up with 2" foam sheets and want to have depressed areas (stream beds, slopes, etc) next to your track, then you use 'open grid' and run your roadbed from 1x stringer to stringer.

    The other method is building a framework of 1 x 4's , setting a subtop over the entire surface, and lay your roadbed and track where you see fit.

    My 20 x 18 layout (benchwork almost completed) has 2 x 6, 3 x 4 and 2 x 4 modules, set on base cabinets for support and storage. The modules are built from either pine or VG Fir 1 x 4's with 1/2" homasote over 7/16" OSB, glued and screwed together. Any unit will easily support my 200 lbs., and are secured to each other with screws.

    Mianne benchwork lends itself to either method, but their I-beam style stringers have a pressboard center, not my choice for strong benchwork. I thought their benchwork also supplies legs- are you using those?

  4. don pedro

    don pedro New Member do you plan on doing the scenery with yours? sounds like you have a closed top...and yes "mianne" has legs. thanks, don pedro
  5. Geno

    Geno Member

    I'm actually planning to do two levels- a staging yard on the lower level and a dual track main running through open country on the upper. My lower level is closed, but my upper level will be open grid.

  6. fsm1000

    fsm1000 Member

    Why noy use a sheet for the level parts and open grid for the hills and such. It does not have to be an either or thing. I did both on mine.
  7. Geno

    Geno Member

    It is what it is because of the way you built yours- my lower level is flat and my upper level is mountainous. But on one end of the lower level there will be a bit of a 'hill'- that will be open grid around the center of the hill.

  8. don pedro

    don pedro New Member

    getting ready to lay track...any one familar with cutting railtrax(mth)..contacts are on both sides of track but only at the ends. how does one cut and maintain live connection after the cut?
  9. Renovo PPR

    Renovo PPR Just a Farmer

    Short of just soldering the track section I can’t think of any easy way to do it. Due to the type of connections this track has there isn’t really a better way to ensure a connection when you cut it. This track is quickly becoming the worse track I own.

    Just don't melt the plastic base. :)

    We are talking MTH Real Trax?
  10. Geno

    Geno Member

    Do you have any other track? Are you locked into the MTH realtrax because you have too much? Maybe a different choice is in order... just a thought.

  11. Renovo PPR

    Renovo PPR Just a Farmer

    MTH heck no I only have one loop of it, thank god, I hate the stuff. I do like the Fastrack much better and my main lines are 100% Fastrack. While there are better chice for that real look of the rails I am lazy and use fastrack because I do not have to ballast.

    0-27 is ok too but it just isn't the look I'm after. Fastrack is just so much better to use that I can see no real reason to ever have to use MTH Real Trax again. In the future I expect that I will deep six all of the RT.

    Real Trax needs an overhaul and fast and they can start with the track connections. They can and should make that track much better. I call it a one time use track because once you take it apart you have no clue if it will work again due to the poor connections between tracks.
  12. Geno

    Geno Member

    I went back and forth deciding which type of track I would use on my layout. I wanted it to be the most realistic 3-rail track possible, and went with a stud rail-style setup using Atlas 2-rail track. It's taking too long to get the center stud rail fabricated, so in the meantime I thought I was going to use 027 track for a temporary set up.

    It turns out I had much more gargraves track buried in my train closet (about 130'), so that's what I'm going to use. I can also bend the flextrack to the radii I need, so I can actually mock up the track plan I have (even though it's with Atlas 2-rail track) so I can see how it looks for real.

    I'd consider fastrack if it didn't cost so much- at least Gargraves is cost effective in that aspect.


Share This Page