Batman Begins Tumbler - (1:10)

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by jaffro, Jun 30, 2008.

  1. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    (not these ones Elliot :p)

    I'm pretty happy with the way my folds are going so far, I've never used this method so extensively before, and clean, straight fold lines are crucial in this model, it's pretty much an F117 Stealth bomber on wheels. :p

    So if anyone's interested in seeing how I do it I thought I might add a step by step guide to show what I'm doing.

    Once laminated, my card is about 1.2mm thick, I want the fold lines to be clean but also slightly rounded, normal scoring on the visible side of the fold will not do, I'll be scoring all my folds on the back of the fold lines. Here's what I use to do this...

    A scalpel with slightly used blade to cut a groove in the card, I find the new ones can cut too deep.

    Sharpie pen to mark the fold lines.

    Tweezers or some sort of scribing tool to score the fold after the groove is cut.

    A model part. (duh! :p):


    First I mark the part with the fold lines I want to cut with a sharpie pen, this gives me a line about the width of the groove i want to cut out.


    Cutting on about a 45 degree angle, I follow the black line. Staying just outside the line gives me a small white line to follow for the length of the cut.


    Repeating the same step, I then cut the other side, 45 degrees in the opposite direction.


    Using my scalpel, I gently lift the black strip from the card, basically what you are doing here is delaminating the strip from the part:


    After doing a few of these you are left with a pile of strips somewhat like this:


    Once the strip has been removed I score the groove with closed tweezers, pushing quite firmly:


    The finished grooves. You can soften these with a tiny bit of water or glue if using thicker card than this, but I don't usually bother. However, I sometimes soften the groove with plastic model cement just prior to folding as this can strengthen the fold and help it to hold it's shape after you fold it:


    To get a nice clean fold I use a metal T Square to hold down one side of the fold while lifting the other side either by hand or with tweezers. For extra long folds I sometimes slide a steel ruler under the part I'm trying to lift/fold:


    Behold, the finished part, ready for attaching to the model:


    Hope this helps someone some day, as hearing someone talk about doing this in another thread is what inspired me to try it on this model. Typing this little how-to has also helped me kill some time while waiting for paint to dry. :twisted:
  2. Master-Bruce

    Master-Bruce Active Member

    Looks amazing! This one is exciting to watch! My Tumbler got wrecked before I got to finish it :( So seeing yours come together has been one I've looked forward to for a while now.

    If you're putting this much attention in now, I can't wait to see how you tackle the more detailed areas like the turbine!
  3. Cláudio Dias

    Cláudio Dias Member


    Your Tumbler looks great! You're doing an excellent job.

    Someone noticed that last month. I've corrected the instructions pics and updated them at

    Thanks for pointing that:thumb:
  4. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    It's been a busy few days but there hasn't been too much to report yet, I've been having some trouble with the painting, and the delamination gremlins have been wreaking havoc, I think it might be the sheets I laminated with the uhu that I was warned about in an earlier post in this thread but they're all cut up and mixed up so I'm not sure which parts came from which sheet. I haven't had this much of an issue with various types of spray glues in the past so I'm assuming it's the uhu. :curse:


    For the sake of making an update I've got a few pics to show, there hasn't been much progress other than some new parts cut, folded and painted, which is where the other issues are cropping up, mainly in the painting department. I also tried out the Tamiya putty which works quite well but I'm going to stick with the timber putty as it is a lot easier to sand and dries a lot faster.




    It's winter here and it just seems to be too cold and damp out in my shed where I do the painting, so the paint is taking ages to dry properly. This has led to some variations in the finished coats and I think I've added too many layers of paint because now my flat black is starting to shine, but i can live with that. Thanks to it not drying however, I've managed to put a few fingerprints where they don't belong, which leads to more sanding and an extra coat of paint.


    I've also noticed my first major headache, which is just around the corner... the bottom plate and the sides of the body that need to be joined to each other are bent way out of proportion to each other so the actual joining is going to be a nightmare but I think I should be able to force it into shape, which will probably be tonights mission thanks to all the windows now being in place. I attached them with epoxy/araldite which was quite a messy job given the rush I was in to do it before the glue dried, which led to a few smudges around the edges, but i'm pretty happy with the results.

    Just for an idea of how it's coming along, here's a sneak peek of what's painted and ready to be glued on, it's all just sitting there at the moment, none of this is glued yet....

  5. littlemodeler

    littlemodeler Member

    :eek: your work leaves me speechless!! awesome job so far:thumb:
  6. fsm1000

    fsm1000 Member

    Looks pretty cool there.
    COuld you send us a set of the plans as well? :D
  7. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    Thanks for the comments, if you want to build your own Tumbler you can download it from Claudio's site :thumb:

    SEBRET Member

    Hey guys, I just got out of the midnight showing of the dark night. It was AWESOME!!! Keep up the good work.
  9. fsm1000

    fsm1000 Member

    Jaffro thanks for the link :D.
    As for delaminating hmmm, is the solvent alcohol or water based? As an idea, you might want to put a fan near it as it dries in order to dry it faster so that it dries BEFORE it delaminates it. The solvent will evaporate before it has a chance to hurt the piece. try it on a spare piece. It might help I hope :)
  10. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    I found a solution to the drying problem by bringing the parts inside after the paint has partially dried and placing them in a children's cardboard playhouse we bought last week that happens to be sitting over the top of a heating duct... it's like a mini baking oven like what they use in some panel beating/ spray painting workshops. :D

    I've managed to get the two halves of the body together and the shell is now fully enclosed, it wasn't quite the struggle I was expecting, but it did take me a day and a half to do it, one edge at a time with an hour or so in between each edge for the glue to dry. It's a bit rough and is going to need some filling, sanding and yet another coat of paint but it's straight and solid.

    No time for pictures now as I'm heading off to work for a 10 hour shift, hopefully I can get some up tomorrow as I clean up the edges.
  11. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    Just a quick update ( I say that now, by the time I finish typing it'll probably be another essay :p)



    Due to the upsizing of the model, some of the printed detail just doesn't enlarge all that well. Although I'm building from a lines-only white set of parts, I've had the coloured parts sheets printed at double size to help me with some of the placements for parts, windows and some of the minor details that were lost when Claudio gave me the white version.

    Last night I had a play around with some ideas I'd had for doing the headlights, there's 8 of them all up, 4 large and 4 small, I've started with the large ones.

    To create the effect I was looking for I started with some small strips of black cardstock that I cut by hand with curved nail scissors.


    For the back of the lights I cut some small squares of silver mirror cardstock.


    For the "glass" of the lights themselves I picked up a tube of "Ultra Clear" araldite / epoxy glue.


    I formed the outer rim of the lights with the black strips then glued them to the silver backing squares.


    I then added a drop or two of araldite to the "cups" I'd created and let it dry before trimming away the excess silver card from around the edges. I'm happy with the way they turned out but was hoping for a bit of a cowl effect over the top of the lights, I'l either add this later, or start again and use less araldite next time, but as you can see, they came up looking better than the printed originals, well I think so anyway.


    After I make the next 4, they'll be attached to the main body section which is now fully intact, painted and waiting for details, I would have included a pic in this update but after taking one I noticed a couple of parts had sprung loose after gluing, so that can wait till the next update.

    Work has also begun on the engine / afterburner section, there's going to be a lot of custom details added here, I'm really looking forward to this section. I'm also really looking forward to taking on the wheels, which will be a major project in themselves given the amount of detail I want to add to them.
  12. Master-Bruce

    Master-Bruce Active Member

    Very nice headlights! A great way to do them too. You're off to a killer start with this one Jaffro! I look forward to each and every update!
  13. cjd

    cjd Member

    I've been quietly following this thread, but now I feel I have to ask you Jaffro - have you considered installing lights in your Tumbler? Wonderful build - thanks for showing it to us

  14. littlemodeler

    littlemodeler Member

    looking great jaffro! i agreea with should put in leds like what claudio did to his bumblebee. P.S. are you getting a batman figure to go with it?:p
  15. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    Thanks for the comments... yes, I did consider lights, especially when i was doing the windows, I was thinking about installing a soft backlight effect in the cockpit, which would have a faint blue tint it it due to the x-ray film I used for the windows. I also considered how easy it would be to pop a couple of LED's into the lights as I was building them but didn't have the money to spend on the parts at the time.

    The lights are installed and I've started adding a few details to the body, like the... umm, petrol cap things? I guess that's what they are. I cut them by eye, a bit roughly from a piece of bronze metallic cardstock and added some 3D effects with a couple of extra layers and some rivet holes were embossed into the outer edge... next to this are what appears to be some kind of grippy surface to step on when entering the cockpit so I cut these out of some fine grit wet and dry sandpaper.



    I've also added a couple of strut type things to the nose section, not sure what they're for but I got the general shape of them by studying my reference shots, although it's hard to find clear pics of the actual parts. I cut them out of a sheet of silver metallic cardstock I found in a craft shop last week, it's not as shiny as the mirror stuff and looks a lot like aluminium... the benefit of using this stuff is that it doesn't require any edge colouring. This next pic almost makes it look like I've added LED's to the lights :D


    As usual, macro mode on the camera is not my friend and I'm still using my crappy phone camera until we get new batteries for the new digital camera. I have to do a bit of cleaning up where I attached the roof part to the main body with epoxy glue (so it would stick well to the painted surface).

    It's starting to look a bit less like a stealth bomber crossed with a halloween mask now. :D This pic was taken earlier today before the details above were added and it's a lot clearer due to the sunlight, I'll get another pic of the whole thing in this light tomorrow.

  16. Master-Bruce

    Master-Bruce Active Member

    No need for me to say but, "OUTSTANDING!" It does look like you added lights there too. That silver backing is working like a charm! ;)

    Seeing this done with thicker card makes my build look terrible(I still have the photos even if the model is gone) It just looks so crisp.

    Amazing work buddy.
  17. Boba Frett

    Boba Frett Member

    Looks great so far :thumb:
  18. Elliott

    Elliott Senior Member

    Looking really good!!
  19. Nothing

    Nothing Longtime Member

    just watched the new movie, and i gotta ask, are you goint put the bat pod in there? lol
    looks awsome! makes me whant to build one now.
  20. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    I'm hoping to catch a screening of the new movie at my nearest IMAX theatre some time soon, but until then haven't seen much of the batpod besides a few pictures and the thread that popped up on this forum a while back. I have no plans to design a batpod model but if somebody did I'd be very keen to build a copy of it in scale with the tumbler for a possible batcave diorama :thumb:

    No pics to post right now but I'll post more progress tomorrow as I continue work on the afterburner section... just to give you an idea how much extra detail I'm adding to this section with the upscale... Claudio's original afterburner section was about 5-6 parts, my customized version of it is so far up to 103 parts. :D

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