Banged-Up Metal

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by CharlesH., Sep 28, 2004.

  1. CharlesH.

    CharlesH. Member

    One of those things that I think gives away an uber-realistic model photo is the fact that the car's (or engine) surfaces are too smooth. Is there a way to represent those little dings and dents on a plastic model? (I'm sure those who use brass don't have this problem)
  2. cobra

    cobra Member

    Charles , the old tried and true ' hot screwdriver ' method is as good as any with styrene. Practice on some scrap pieces first of course , to get a feel for it . If doing a gon , work from the inside of the car . A flat screwdriver works best . Don't use a flame on the plastic .

  3. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

    I would think your best bet is to heat it up a little and flex it. Practic eon scrap!
  4. spitfire

    spitfire Active Member

    Charles, I totally agree!! If you look at prototype tenders especially, you can see those wavy sides. Another thing I've noticed is that they're a lot shinier than we usually paint them. Shiny, with dirt and dust, rather that a completely matte finish.

    Hot screwdriver sounds like a good idea.

  5. CharlesH.

    CharlesH. Member

    Sounds a bit dangerous, but I think I'll try the screwdriver thing. And you're absolutely right spitfire, prototype locos can be quite shiny, especially if you model the early 40's. Take a look:
    Now, the thought of touching my Bachmann 2-8-0 with a hot screwdriver seems a bit frightening.
  6. kjd

    kjd Member

    I think the small dents in the photo could be represented more safely by sanding with a small round sanding stick. Again practice on scrap and see how it goes. I don't know how I would represent the sheet metal deflections seen on diesel hood doors. I wonder if some of the shine in the photo above is water from the steam cleaning.
  7. SteamerFan

    SteamerFan Member

    you know that you can model dings and dents without actually having to mutilate your Loco's and rolling stock right?

    if you use the right apinting techniques you can accomplish a unit that looks banged up from a distance (as most will be viewed from a distance). for dents you'd paint an area a little lighter then the color already present, and slowly working darker to the middle of where you want the dent to be.

    There's books out there on how to properly paint an item to appear worn, dented, ect without actually having to melt the plastic or scrap the metal.

    why ruin a perfectly good item just to make it look more realistic when there's a perfectly good way to do it with paint?
  8. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Yes, I can easily ruin a perfectly good model with paint.
  9. RailRon

    RailRon Active Member

    For heavy weathering I prefer painting with brushes. This MDC C-25 was spray painted first to represent a clean engine, then I made a light overspray with dust and grime for a normal weathering.
    But then I went perhaps a bit overboard with dirty washes and drybrushing all sorts of dust, rust and dirt. I find that the streaky appearance of heavy grime and soot is best made with brushes.

    So IMO she doesn't only look dirty, but also quite a bit banged up (look at the shiny part of the smokebox!), although the surface isn't scratched at all.
    So you even might paint her again als shiny and new if you don't like all that dirt. :thumb:


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  10. brakie

    brakie Active Member

    You may want to think about adding weld spots as well.This is done by using wire less the ten Thousandths OD glue to where you would like to have a spot weld repair..You can crack you door glass by using a hobby knife and very carefully place a very light line on you glass-usually on the doors from the bottom up like this: \ or this /-not to large or to long.
  11. spitfire

    spitfire Active Member

    Wow Ron that engine has seen better days!!!

    Not that I am any kind of expert on loco weathering (having only attempted one), but I would think the light spray of dust (from the bottom) and soot (from the top) should be the last coat.

    Engines rust, water and steam leaves scale, paint peels off the smokebox. These things happen over time. The dust kicked up from the rails, and the soot fallout from the smokestack build up on top of these other things, and are often cleaned off between trips. So they should go on last.

    From a modelling standpoint, I think this would have the added benefit of blending some of the weathering, so that it's not so stark.

    Just a thought. :)

  12. KCS

    KCS Member

    OK guy's i have to make this short and sweet because i'm waiting on a phone call. but as all my other post's you notice my very hard study of books and mag's. Model Railroading (not railroader) get a copy of the Model Railroading June,04 mag. it will have the artical on modeling a New York Central 60' Appliance box car.(page 28) i dunno how the guy did it but with just a bit of paint he put all of the scratch's and dings from opening and closing the doors to just plan old day to day use. the pictures are great and has a get explanation on how it was done and the detail, i tell you what, is something else... what a sight to see.

  13. Blake

    Blake Member

    I always use a satin finish on everything. All railroad equipment is painted gloss and then gets weathered over that gloss. To paint a model gloss however, doesn't work either as real gloss doesn't scale down properly.

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