Discussion in 'Getting Started' started by Lionelalltheway, Jun 7, 2006.

  1. Hi,
    Im new on "the-gauge" I am currently building my first really detailed layout and will stop back for help. Right now I am wondering how to glue ballast under the track without making it look fake? One other thing, if any of you have any ideas on how to make it possible to get an 8'x8' layout out of a normal size door please add that as well.
  2. abutt

    abutt Member

    In modelling, the ballast isn't really "under" the track as in the real thing. Rather track is glued down, or nailed down, and the ballast is sprinkled down filling the spaces between ties and out from the edge the desired width. Using a soft brush, smooth ballast out so it looks realistic and off the ties and track. Then using an eye dropper and diluted white glue with a touch of liqued detergent to "soften" it, flow the glue onto the ballast and let it dry. There are several good scenic books that describe the process in detail. I suggest you get one.

    The only way to get an 8'x8' door table is to get a door from an 8'x8' opening.

    Good luck
  3. Thanks, I will look into a book, and as far as the layout size goes is there any way to cut and hinge it or something like that so it is more easily moved?
  4. abutt

    abutt Member

    First of all we're not even sure of your gauge? With a user name of "Lionelalltheway", should we assume you're into O gauge? If so, 8' would just about allow a circle of track.

    I would strongly suggest you look at our "Modular Layout Forum". This is a wonderful way to approach the hobby...a few feet at a time.

    Possibly spend more time thinking about what you want your railroad to do for you. Make your mistakes on paper in the planning stage rather than in real time.
  5. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    If you want to create an 8x8 "oval" of track using (hollow core) doors as your base, and you wan tto be able to take it apart, you will have to find some sort of way of temporarily joining it. The idea of hinges is good - if you can find "loose pin" hinges, you will be able to use them like splice plates. Just line them up and insert the pin to "clamp" the parts together.

    I would not recommend that you try to create a solid 8x8 table, but rather that you leave the centre open for access. Reaching 4 feet (or more) to work on the layout and/or rereail rolling stock will be a pain.

    Welcome to The Gauge!

  6. Thanks for the welcome, and yes I am into O gauge. The ideas are all great. I have already built a solid eight by eight foot layout but I have just tested some things on it and drilled a few holes. I could saw it in half pretty easily. My drawback is that If I were ever to move I would want to be able to take my layout. The biggest problem is getting it out the only door going to the room it's in. I would hate to put a lot of time and money into something that would have to stay at an old house.
  7. Also, I have tested track layouts on my wood base. I just have to ovals of track going the whole way around the outside, so getting to it is pretty easy. I only have two switches and one turnout which is also fairly close to the side of the platform.
  8. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I'm not sure of construction details on your 8' x 8' table, but I'm presuming from the discussion on this thread thus far that the rtrack isn't nailed down yet. If that is correct, cut the table in half to make 2 4' x 8' tables. If you haven't used some 1" x 4" perimeter framing around the table, do it around both of the tables you get from cutting it in half. I'm also presuming that you are planning for a "what if" move situation before going farther rather than a layout to be moved on a regular basis like in modular railroading. If that is the case, repeatable alignment is probably not a big problem. Door hinges with removeable pins would certainly work for alignment first time every time, but drilling holes through the two frames adjacent to each other and bolting it together with nuts. bolts, & washers would certainly work. I think the Lionel modular clubs bring their rails flush with the end of the modules, and install the Lionel track pins on one side, then carefully line up the next table to put those pins into the rails on the next table. Once the pins are in place, the tables can then be joined together with a clamping device and track alignment is good.

    Some other things to think about before you get farther along in the building process are the type of scenery you want to put on the layout and how permanent it will be verses removeable scenery. Also what sort of access will you have going in and out of the existing room, and how much portability do you want to provide in the event of a future move? For instance if the entry into the room is a hallway that goes 90 degrees from the doorway, will you have room to turn an 8 foot long table? It may work in this house, but how about any possible future house? A four foot wide table will have to turn on its side to get through most standard doorways. Do you want to put some mountains or other permanent scenery on it that would possibly make it difficult to get it out the door?

    What I'm getting at is this. If you cut that 8' x 8' table into 4 2' x4' tables and 2 2' x 2' tables, you can then set them up with 2 2' x 4' tables on each side to make 2 parrallel 8' sides connected by the 2' x 2' tables on each end with the center left open. You will have room for the same layout you are currently running. You don't need the center part of the table because you can't reach it anyway; but when you move, the whole thing will be very protable.
  9. jim currie

    jim currie Active Member

    :wave: welcome to the gauge:wave:
  10. thanks everyone, great ideas.
  11. Play-Doh

    Play-Doh Member

    Hmm....maybe I went a little overboard with 2x6 framing I built mine on.

    Whoops. Oh well, nothing like beefing it up!

  12. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    The only thing wrong with going with 2x6 lumber for framing is trying to lift it if you ever move! With 2 x 6 framing, it will not be far off from piano moving!
  13. Play-Doh

    Play-Doh Member

    Tell me about it! Right now I have it up on cinder blocks and just lifting it up that much nearly gave me a hernia! Its a good idea though. Its a 4x8 reinforced with two 2x6 braces in the middle to prevent it from sagging. It may be built overkill, but this is just one piece of my dream 16x16 layout which I will have to be able to stand on when working on the inner pieces, so im glad it built it tuff!

Share This Page