Bachmann 2-8-0

Mountain Man

Active Member
sumpter250 said:
The key phrase here is "so unless you are willing to do some major surgery to the frame and all the electrics its really not worth it at all".
There are some of us "risk takers", out here who are willing, and believe it is worth it. I've made some horrible, and expensive mistakes in my hobbies, and I've had some few great successes. I've learned from both, and therein lies the value of the risk, learning !!. Not to mention that I have some unique and interesting things. My HOn3 outside frame 2-4-4-2, built from a MDC 2-8-0 kit, and an extra frame, is one of the successes. I've been running that engine for the last 21 years, with cleaning and lubricating as the only maintenance.
I am not downplaying the difficulty in a project of this nature, only saying that if you are willing to take the risk, and want the result, it is something which can be done. Well planned, and carefully done, step by step, with patience, it can be done.
So!, Canopus, if you decide to go ahead with this conversion, I, for one, will be interested in seeing the process........lots of pics! :D :D

Where and when is your payout set that you can run a Narrow Gauge 2-4-4-2-?
 

sumpter250

multiscale modelbuilder
Where and when is your payout set that you can run a Narrow Gauge 2-4-4-2-?
Where?, Somewhere in the northeast. When? Now.
SHS&D #1 was rebuilt by the shipyard so it could negotiate a curve that could not be widened because land could not be aquired due to a "conflict of interest" between the shipyard owner ( me ) and the Mayor ( owner of the land in question ). If you go to the search feature here, and search Sag Harbor Shipbuilding & Drydock Co. you should be able to get all the information about the yard, and its industrial line locos, and its aquisitions.
Pete
 

Squidbait

Recovering ALCO-holic
I withdraw my suggestion... I hadn't looked closely enough at the Bachmann 2-8-0. Those counterweights would be a hassle starting from a stock HO mechanism.
 

Johnson Bar

New Member
Canopus, I have the Bachmann 2-8-0 . I moved my cab back 15 scale inches on the existing chassis I used a Dremel for most of the mod's. I also opened the back of the cab to reveal its interior. The information I used was from the 2007 issue of the 0n30 Annual.
The author constructed his own replacement cab but I used the original one. It wasn't that difficult you just have to measure twice cut once. wires and connections can be moved. I love the Americanization of my Connie from B-mann. I say Go for it!
 

Johnson Bar

New Member
Canopus, I have the Bachmann 2-8-0 . I moved my cab back 15 scale inches on the existing chassis I used a Dremel for most of the mod's. I also opened the back of the cab to reveal its interior. The information I used was from the 2007 issue of the 0n30 Annual.
The author constructed his own replacement cab but I used the original one. It wasn't that difficult you just have to measure twice cut once. wires and connections can be moved. I love the Americanization of my Connie from B-mann. I say Go for it!
 

Drmsparks

New Member
It can be done!

Actually it can be done, I'm almost finished with a similar project.

I'm making what I refer to as a baby K. Some of the details for the finished product are borrowed from the K-27 and the EBT mikes. My project engine is a road switcher for a coke and coal processing road. I've rebuilt the entire cab (moved the cab, dropped the floor, changed the doors, removed the sliding window, added armrests and sun visors, opened the rear wall, built panels for the existing doors to convert them to walls and installed real seats) , extended the frame, extended the air tank reserviors, added a rear sand dome and new generator. I'm building a slope back tender modified from a Putt trains S Scale kit.

I still have to redo the boiler piping, the cab interior details, add new air pumps and their piping, and finish the dual speaker tsunami install (I went with the medium steam for its variety of eastern chimes). As far as the wiring goes, theres an extra inch plus in the tender that can be extended to make up for the lengthing of the loco. Nothing major there, but you do have to cut the engine leads for full disassembly.

I hope to have it ready for the midwest narrow guage show in march. It's the first time I've gone "all Littlefield" on an engine and like what I've done so far.

Is it a lot of work? You bet. But...It's smaller and definitely more suited for On30 than an MMI K (I know I have one...in On3). IMHO The bachmann cars look silly next to the K. Is it cheaper than a K?- not much, but no one else will have one.

The key to a Mikado option is extending the firebox- the extra truck is to support the extra boiler weight. If you don't want the longer firebox skip the trailing truck and just make a larger connie.
 

johntealn30

New Member
LoudMusic said:
I've read a few other places that the 2-8-0 can navigate an 18" radius without trouble. Is this accurate? Does it look alright or should I plan for 20"? And while we're on the subject, how about the 2-6-0?

The picture is an out of site rad I needed to acommadate a fiddle yard. Although the picture is a diesel I can get my 2-6-0 round no problem. The white window sill is about 8" inches wide so as you can see the radius can be no more than 12 - 14"

228560765.jpg


John
RJR Branch Line
 

Drmsparks

New Member
Pictures of modified OF280

I've finally got my OF 2-8-0 project to the point that it's worth photographing so I thought I'd throw some out there...

I've moved the cab back and opened it up, installed a PSC baldwin cab superdetail kit, converted it to dual air compressors with extended air tanks, installed a rear sand dome and switched to a slopeback tender. I was shooting for a baby slidevalve k-27, with additional inspiration from the white pass and yukon skagway yard/dock switcher.
 

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Drmsparks

New Member
Second and third pictures

I still have some work to do on this, details etc, plus some paint touch up but here's two more!

Dave
 

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Canopus

Member
Drmsparks said:
I've finally got my OF 2-8-0 project to the point that it's worth photographing so I thought I'd throw some out there...

I've moved the cab back and opened it up, installed a PSC baldwin cab superdetail kit, converted it to dual air compressors with extended air tanks, installed a rear sand dome and switched to a slopeback tender. I was shooting for a baby slidevalve k-27, with additional inspiration from the white pass and yukon skagway yard/dock switcher.

So much for "it can't be done" eh? ;)

After seeing this I might just get myself one. You've made it look much better with your modifications. :) Very good job!
 
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