Arnold S2 MT Conversion

Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by noydb5849, Mar 9, 2004.

  1. noydb5849

    noydb5849 New Member

    Hi. I have been a lurker for about two years or so. I have thoroughly enjoyed this forum and all the knowledge I have gained from it.

    This weekend I started converting my engine roster over to MT's. I had previously converted my rolling stock to all MT's. Just got tired of having to have the coupler conversion car.

    I did not have any problem with the two SD7's or the SW9/1200 with adjusting the height of the coupler, but when I got to the S2, once installed, it was kinda "droopy". I cannot figure out how to get it to stay at the right height. It seems to center horizontly OK, but will not stay at the correct height.

    Any ideas? It seems like the spring is not stretched enough to apply sufficient pressure to keep the coupler in correct verical alignment. But I don't really want to try to "stretch" the spring.

    I am using the MT's 1128 for the S2 (truck mount) per MT'sconversion chart, and made sure all the pieces were assembled correctly. I have the MT coupler guage to check the heights, and all the other conversions went OK.

    I would really prefer to use the truck mounted MT 1128, I just need to figure out how to eliminate the "droop".

    Thanks for any help.

  2. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    While I model in HO, I'm also doing some N. In HO, I've always gone the body mount route, and I'm doing the same in N. Truck mount couplers in HO have the same problems with vertical height/droop, which is why I body mount. Different manufacturers will vary in the depth of the coupler mounting box (they do in HO). You may need to shim the coulper, inside the couper box, to get rid of the droop.
  3. noydb5849

    noydb5849 New Member

    Thanks, Pete. I know the body mount would be better, but I just feel intimidated in removing part of the truck to allow clearance for a body mount.

    I had thought about the possibility of adding a shim to force the spring a little forward and maybe apply more pressure on the coupler shank in the coupler box.

    Even then, I may have to figure out whether the shim would go on the bottom or the top of the box to hold the coupler in position. (the point of the fulcrum and all that)

    At my age (eye-sight and twitchy nerves), I hate to dis-assemble and assemble those little parts too many times. I am all too familiar with Mr. Murphy and his laws.

    Thanks again,

  4. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

    Welcome out of lurkdome, Wayne! :D :D :D I lurked for a half year myself.

    In N scale I certainly don't blame you in not wanting to tear into things too often. I've had the same problem with my HOn30 stuff. The only thing I find that helps is bright light and a good beer.
  5. 2slim

    2slim Member

    I found a conversion kit from Sunrise Enterprises that will allow the use of MT 1015 couplers body mounted on the S2. You can order it off their web site for like $4. I haven't installed mine yet but it looks like it will work OK.

    I need to get off my butt and do it and take some pix of this and another conversion I did which was converting an old Atlas China GP-9 to body mounted couplers using the MT kit for the later Atlas GP-9's

  6. njpluta

    njpluta New Member

    I recommend the Sunrise Conversion kit. Here are some pics of mine.


    The hardest part was cutting off the coupler mount off the truck but with some care it's not that bad.


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