anyone need help with something ask here

Discussion in 'RC Offroad Forum' started by mpracing, Nov 11, 2002.

  1. Zbytovsky

    Zbytovsky New Member

    You can buy quick chargers, or have more than 2 batterys. The other thing is to remember that batteries only last so long for a reason, and its not so you have to wait or buy more batteries but that most vehicles have a HOT warning label on then because the motors heat up to high temps. To make a vehicle last longer is to let the motor cool down before running again. Aslo fast chargers will burn out your batteries faster. The only advice I can give you to run longer is buy batteries that have bigger MAH's (milliamps)
  2. mxking171

    mxking171 Member

    ok thx for the advice but i do let it cool down before eache run to o well i can live with it this wa till i get some money.
  3. GMCYA

    GMCYA New Member

    OK i Just bought a HPI RS4 MT...I bought the truck just to have fun with, not race seriously or anything (other than friends). I want the truck to be as bullet proof as possible and real quick to be zipping around offroad, Im not worried about topend so no need for a 2 speed. I would rather it be good for jumping stuff and just driving around off road in general. Can you give me some pointers on what mods I should start out with and then some??? Thanks!
  4. NitroDevil85

    NitroDevil85 New Member

    Dear GMCYA,
    I am relatively new to Nitro RC but I would start with the engine it is the most expensive but you will get most bang for your buck. I would start with O.S., NovaRossi, Team Orion, and Trinity. Another is a good tuned pipe. Good ones would be Dynamite, Kyosho, OFNA, O.S., And TrinityThen your tires to get better traction most stock tires stink. For this I would start with Pro-Line, TRC, OFNA, and Jaco. Then last but not least new Steering Servo For more responsive stering. I would get one with metal geers. Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, And JR are all good products.
  5. maxpf56

    maxpf56 New Member

  6. stewbeast

    stewbeast New Member

    Hey all, I have a decade or two of electric cars... so now a few years older and poorer... I have stepped into the Nitro world with a TR-15. I have heard some bad mouth about it... but I started long ago with 1/10 electric and I find this car suitable for my learning needs now... I have what I believe to be a properly broken in engine, but I seem to melt my nylon clutch shoes after 3 tanks of constant driving. I have been pulling the shoes off and spinning them on a powerdrill with sandpaper to take take the melted parts off and putting it back together... The car idles great without any need of brakes to keep it still and rolls easy (no brake drag) while in operation... but this clutch sanding thing is getting old and I have little clutch shoe left and I am in need of doing this a better way. I have seen some Dupont shoes (VESPAL) that are supposed to be an upgrade, but they are "12x" more expensive than the standard shoes... I'd call that one heck of an upgrade - so before I do something like that... I want to know what more experienced people would do . I don't race... I am just a hobbyist at this, so if I NEED the $37 shoes to replace my $3.35 shoes, I gotta know that it is worth it - or am I just gonna toast the clutch bell with the new tougher shoes?
  7. rockn82

    rockn82 Marx Brother

    If you are sure that your brake is not dragging and that the idle is set correctly, the most common is your throttle operation. The best way to save those clutch shoes is to be on the gas or off. If you spend alot of time at a lower throttle then the shoes will be contracting and expanding quickly and will melt from the heat build up. The only other thing that comes to mind (and seeing as it is 2:45AM) You may have too high of a gear ratio. Thus causing your clutch to work in overtime. I hope this helps.

    Oh and by the way the car should push easily five feet or so with no brake applied. If it does not then you may have just a bit too much on the brake. Who knows, six of one, half dozen of another. lol
  8. HyperJay

    HyperJay New Member

    I have a 1/8 scale buggy and I am trying to build the shocks. I have it done except those little metal balls that go in the top of the shocks for mounting. Any suggestions on how to get those things in with out screwing up my shocks?
  9. rockn82

    rockn82 Marx Brother

    Use a pair of pliers and place the ball in the the whole where it needs to go and gently squeeze. It should pop in without too much force. And vola!
  10. mpracing

    mpracing Member

    Sorry to everyone that I have not replied on here in like forever. I just got back from a big race.

    Anyways, about the shocks, I would try what rockn82 said or use a very tiny allen wrench and gently pop it out.

    I would go to and they should have all your upgrades and candy eye parts you want. They can modify your truck to take out the curb! But aluminum is not cheap, you should first buy arms, then shock towers, then top deck or whatever is left.

    Go for the 9.5 MBX by ofna, you will not be dissapointed, those things are the beast! I would highly recommend them! Hope this builds your confidents!

    I currently wont be going to much more races so I should get back to any more of you really soon!

  11. tris441

    tris441 New Member

    Hi, I have an electric rustler and I was wondering if I could hook up two engines to it. Is that possible? Thanks, Chris
  12. rockn82

    rockn82 Marx Brother

    i answered your question in another one of you same posts
  13. RCMadMan

    RCMadMan New Member

    Hi i'm having problems with my Zenoah G230RC engine. the float in the carb keeps sticking. can you give me any advice on how to stop this from happening? Thanks.
  14. rockn82

    rockn82 Marx Brother

    Well fella I have no experience with a Zenoah. But when the carb in a real motor sticks its time to dissassemble and clean. Look carefully at the bowl and look for varnish or other deposits look where the float sits and the needle valve to see if the float is binding there. also look at the float mount and see if it could be binding there. If the float is sticking in the needle valve part dont use sandpaper or something of the like because the valve will be pretty much useless after that. Just use alcohol and a rag and clean it out real well. Or soak it in some carburator parts cleaner. That should do it. Hope you get it going.
  15. RCMadMan

    RCMadMan New Member

    cheers for the help its running fine now.
  16. mxking171

    mxking171 Member

    hey every 1 i just baught a electric stampede and my esc was working fine and then right out off the blue my throttele stuck wide open and my controler wasnt even on then a big puff off smoke went up in the air and it was dead i blew out the heat sinks and now i have forword drive but no reverse wat happenbed is it my esc or my motor thanks
  17. Nald

    Nald New Member

    Im going to get my first RC and I want nitro power. Iam so confused with all the brands I need help to decide to which is a good brand. Im kidda thinking of getting the RTR ( is this ready to run) to avoid ay difficulties. Im not sure how hard it is to build one of this but Im just trying to play it safe with the RTR's. And by the way what is a good brand for Radio just incase i decided to get a kit.
  18. rockn82

    rockn82 Marx Brother

    I think one post is sufficient enough to get an answer.
  19. Nald

    Nald New Member

    Im looking for more the way where can i get a good price im in so. california
  20. shadow95001

    shadow95001 New Member

    hi i just bought a new t-maxx i have had problems with the carb sticking can any one tell me why i also tried to put a return spring on it but that just made it worse has anyone else had this problem if so how did u fix it

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