Discussion in 'RC Offroad Forum' started by mpracing, Nov 11, 2002.
thanks fot the help guys
Try reversing the drill the yank eliminator has a one way bearing that only locks on the crank in one direction. If that doesn't solve it then pull off the housing and make sure that you still have the little nub that the starter shaft attaches to. That is located on the crankshaft protruding from the connecting rod mount. If all of that is ok, then check and make sure the head is mounted correctly and the glow plug is tight. Let me know if it works.
You will need to run the first tanks pressure line (from exhaust) in normal and the fuel line (to carb) to the pressure line on the second tank. Then run the second tanks fuel line to the carb otherwise it wont work. For mounting you can make a very easy mount out of a piece of very thin sheet metal if you would like a pic for what the mount looks like email me and I'll send you a diagram.
Email me here
The way this is working out is getting kinda confusing trying to figure out who still needs help and who doesn't ???????
my Kyosho TR15 is now run in and is going nicely......
I've had it running on grass fine......but today i tried it on concrete and whenever i get passed half rev's it steers to the left really bad!
I dont know if its because of the concrete being more slippery...i wouldnt have thought so though as it's quite a BIG steering problem and im sure i'd have noticed somthing before.
Is there a power distribution setting anywhere? or could somthing be wrong with one of the wheels?
Any help much appreciated...
oh and the tires are in good nick so i dont think its them
does it pull to the left bad or just drift? If it pulls badly then your output shafts or dogbones are slipping, try to tighten the set screw in the steel yolk drives. But if it drifts badly then you need to set the sterring trim on your controller. Just keep turing to the right in little increments until it steers perfect. Ask if you have further problems.
Also check and see how much slop is in the steering. Just put it on the ground and put your finger on the front left tire. Move your finger back and forth (toward and away from the vehicle) see how much it moves. If it is a lot you may need new turnbuckles or try to shim the upper and lower turnbuckle mounts. By-the-way if the concrete is sloped it will drift in the direction of the slope. Sometimes very badly. I have had the same trouble with my truck and the shims helped out significantly. If all of this doesn't work you tire my not be on the rim correctly or the camber adjustment is off (if you have camber adjustment). Check all of these and above then get back to us.
Good advice rockn82, if none of this works then he just needs new tires and rims. Hope everything helps bluebus.
I have two questions. I own an RC10GT and have a problem with the outdrives. I run MIP CVDs and for some reason they just barely sit inside the outdrive when the suspension is neutral, and they look like they might pop out. I use to have MIP Lightweight outdrives, and the CVDs sat in those the same way, and one outdrive ended up splitting. COuld this have caused the break? If so, how do I get the CVDs to sit farther in?
My second question: what front tires are the best for snow and possibly ice? Thanks a lot.
This is a similar question as asked earlier, but i have a t3 and i was wondering what gears to get to make it mostly top end for good speed(i'm a newbie). Also, with a fast gear ratio, 6 cell pack, and a 12tx3 motor what kind of speeds could i expect to get with my T3? Thanks.
OLDBLUE: MIP has a lot of problems with that. It is the same on many models of cars/trucks. Really the only way to fix the problem is put the factory outdrives in or use a lathe to make new receiver cups that are longer than the stock ones. Its easy to do(if you have a lathe). On my RS4MT I had the same problem so I said screw it went back to the factory $4.00 for two and never had any problems. Hope this helps although know you got screwed on 40.00 parts sucks. Sorry.
GROVER: First use my Target Speed Gear Ratio Finder. Radio Controlled Tips and Tricks
This will tell you what gears you need to get to the speed you entered. After that its all on your motor. If it has enough torque to get to that speed or even move for that matter, then the speed you want is too fast. Although I recommend purchasing all kinds of gears. You never know when you need a one or two MPH advantage. Since I ain't real familiar with electric motors anymore I couldn't tell you how much torque yours will put out. but if you follow the link you won't be dissapointed. Good Luck!
I switched back to the factory ones today, and then took it out for a run. After a few minutes, one drive shaft popped out, to where it jammed the outdrive, and that shaft ended up bending along with cracking that outdrive. So now I need new CVD shafts and outdrives. Anyone know of CVD shafts for another car that are just a little bit longer than the ones for the RC10gt? Thanks again.
I think I found some longer CVD bones that mmight work. The stock RC10GT ones are 3.46", these are 3.55", and there are also 3.69" ones. Which do you think will work best? Also, are CVD bones universal as for fitting other MIP CVD axles? Thanks
i cant use a starter box because my fly wheel is to high up in the bottom the and on tower hobbies it even says i cant also i have no money to spend on it.
I have another question, I’m still researching more about the do's and don'ts of electric rc cars. As stated earlier, i have a T3 that i bought off a guy and i wanted to learn more about the gears used with different motors. Is there a good source somewhere that explains what pinions and spur gears and why? Or can someone please inform me? Also, why is it important to have matched batteries? Is it a big deal for a backyard basher like myself who has no interest in racing but just speed and jumping? Thanks.
Get the 3.55, if those seems like they are hanging out a bit, just lossen your metal yolk on the gear boz and move it out a little then tihten it, I have done this before and it still works great and keeps the cvds in, try it!
It is really impotant to have matched batterys in your car. Because some batterires have different rates, so you could get a acis leak or they may explode. Anyway, for your pinion options, go to the manufactures web site and look, if that doesnt work, go to a hobby shop, or look in instruction booklet. I will try to look for ya and soon I will tell ya if I find anything.
Sorry mp I have to disagree with you on this one. If all you are doing is backyard bashing, I see no problem with unmatched batteries. The only advantage that matched batteries have over regular unmatched "stick" packs is that all of the cells are the same. Meaning at the same amp load each cell should respond in a similar way as far as voltage drop and capacity. If you have some stick packs already you most certainly have experienced the main draw back to stick packs and that is at the end of your run it feels like the pack goes soft and you can run for another minute at a slower speed.The reason that the last minute it feels slow is because some of the cells in the pack have died and others are still discharging. The only problem that this could possibly bring on is one of the cells actually reversing it's polarity. But this is very rare. I have been racing for ten years and only have seen this happen two or three times. But, it does happen so I thought I would let you know. But, at the current price of a matched battery pack you can get two Possibly three unmatched assembled high capacity stick packs. So I think that if you are not going to race stick packs are the only way to go.
Hope this helps, have fun, Brian
Hey mpracing , I have a question about 1/8th scale nitro buggys. I really want one, but i dont know which one to get. I want one that is very fast, and can take a lot of bashing. I heard that the OFNA hyper 7 or 9.5 is really good, but i also read that the new xtm x-terminator is fast. can you help me decide which car to get? [?] I would prefer one that has some optional parts so i can hop it up. Please provide any information that you think would help, including any other rc cars. Thanks!!!![|)] o ya, i also heard that the kyosho mp 7.5 kanai edition is fast. Thanks again
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