Discussion in 'Tools of the Trade' started by Gil, Sep 11, 2004.
The left sample is so beautiful! - Leif
What exactly is a "pounce wheel" and where do you find one?
usually they are used to transfer patterns from a paper plan to wood or another surface
The following is from Micro-Marks Website minus the price:
POUNCE WHEEL SET
Item Number: 15200
Pounce Wheels Explained
Use #1: Transferring Drawings from Paper to Wood Just roll the pounce wheel over the drawing and it perforates tiny holes in the paper. Place the paper over the wood. Then rub powdered chalk (the kind used for snap lines; available at any hardware store) over the perforated holes. The chalk goes through the holes and marks the wood.
Use #2: Simulating Rivets on Models Works on wood, plastic and sheet brass up to .010 inch thick.
Aluminum handles with steel wheels. Tighten chuck for straight lines or loosen for curves. Sold in a set of three: 15/64 inch diameter x .041 inch spacing, 1/4 inch diameter x .066 inch spacing and 7/16 inch diameter x .072 inch spacing.
B-17G Cowl - Fianl Radius & Surface Detail
One last picture of the B-17G Cowl. I have held back from forming the inner radius until I was comfortable with the forming process sequence. The results were worth the wait.
I added some surface detail in the way of scribed panel lines and rivet detail. Rivet spacing needs work but the effect of both panel line and rivet detail will work.
This completes the experimental sequence necessary to develop radial engine cowls. I'll start preparing the "how to article" so all the "paper metal bangers" can get their own taste of this newly developed aspect of card modeling.
Best regards, Gil
I've been real busy as of late, but just had to stop and sign in to say WOW
Absolutely fantastic, I can't wait to give this a shot :roll:
I feel Tims problem hitting, another project :lol:
Gil, you are a genius.
Me, I am going in ever decreasing circles, no doubt eventually to disappear.....
My boss just reminded me I still have 15 days of leave to use up by Christmas. I think I finally have a solution! Or maybe a reason why my focus on life is so myopic! I need a holiday!
PS Gil, you ARE a genius.
They tell me Polands cheap, think of the armfulls of cardmodels you could bring back then you could quietly go into an eternal loop.
Eternal Loop? what, like this one...
G R E A T . . . Looking stuff Gil :!:
If I can, I've been trying to stick(pun) to 100% paper, but my current model already has some copper wire.....so why not aluminum?(Al-U-min-EE-um? )
Tim, I was looking at some of my ancient artifacts reflecting on the journey from there to here. Genius is a nice term but it's not really applicable in my case as it took a long time and a long learning curve to get everything right. Hindsight is always perfect and it's really amazing how one could be so thick headed as not to see that the path was as plain as day..., but that is making a generalization about something that has many small nuances that left unnoticed will yield disappointing results. That's where the "how to" article will come to the aid of all who want to give "paper metal banging" a go. In fact the phrase "paper metal banging" may enter the language in a round about sort of way if enough of the constituency starts trying or adapting these methods for their latest creations. Aeronca and Piper Cub cowls are great candidates for first trys. Wing tips and wheel cowls come to mind as additional items that are easily adapted to building by this method (Staka wheel pants!!!).
Ok, so I can talk about this till everyone's ears fall off..., time to get going on the "how to"...,
Best regards, Gil
Some may think the idea of using aluminum as being "off topic" in the World of card modeling.
Let me remind everyone that this all started as a quest to find a card stock that either has a real foil surface, or at least looks like sheet aluminum used in the full scale model. As it worked out (after an exhaustive search) nothing looks like the real thing and that's where this thread diverged into a development thesis. Using card (or paper) as a backing and template preserves the art of card modeling while expanding the art of surface preparation and attendant decoration is thus seen as a simple and harmonius extension of work by those practised in the art. Working it as a metal comes as an option left to individual discretion...,
Best regards, Gil
P.S. This means go ahead and try it and see what happens..., One other item more important than any other. Have fun doing it and if something unexpected occurs make sure to tell us!
My wife came home with this stuff today from a cheapÂ£/$ store today, it works out at Â£0.05 or $0.07 for an A4 sheet.
Its is aluminium foil on paper, to be used it would have to be laminated on to card. The dents I grabbed the first thing to hand (the blunt end of my glue brush) and just pushed it in, no tears, rips or snags. Then I tried a line used a basic metal spike and just dragged it down the paper, again no problems.
Sorry for the poor photos hail rain or shine I will do some tests with this tomorrow in day light. My camera is crap for this kind of photo so I need that day light.
If you want some to try just let me know and I will have it in the post tomorrow.
Can't wait for day light to try this out :lol:
That's the stuff. You need to get some #0000 steel wool pads to shine up the surface so it looks like aluminum sheet. The surface should be worked separately before bonding it to card. Think of it as being like wallpaper, goes on as the final finish. This stuff is hard to stop thinking about once you get started on it.
I've found that you can cut out aluminum metal tape to the shape of an inspection cover (hole punch) stick it down on a glass or very smooth surface and use an embossing tool to put indents into the surface to simulate screws. Place the foil foil side down on top of it and burnish the back side. Pull it off and you'll see a slight indentation of the inspection cover with fasteners. This has got to be the easiest and fastest way ever to do real looking aluminum detail.
The aluuminum foil wrapping paper is good for covering large areas that don't need the metal deforming requirement. I plan to mix and match with wrapping foil, aluminum kitchen foil and aluminum tooling foil for the B-17G.
If the rest of you haven't tried this you just don't know what your missing yet.
I've been moving ahead so quickly on this project that I haven't had the time to do the article yet. That and the GPM B-29 arrived today...,
Till next time, Gil
Yet another good idea 8)
I will have to dig out my tools for this and give it a go,once this gets hold of you its hard not to think of it all the time.
Every time I walk in to any form of store now all I see is possible materials for card models :lol:
Still not found a use for the hamster in the pet store, still thinking though :lol: Ahhhhhhhh a fur flying jacket for the Russian pilot :idea:
Well Iam off to test this out :roll:
BTW its the foil Iam off to test not the hamster :lol:
I've been trying some aluminum stuff and was wondering what your suggestion would be, for an adhesive to stick alum. to alum. or plastic to aluminum.
I've tried CA in both Odorless and Medium Thickness and both seem to stick the Aluminum Tape together, but the Medium Thick does leave a white haze on the outside. The Odorless doesn't.
I'm currently trying to cover the Italian F-104 that is free to download, with Aluminum Duct tape with some success. This would be better on a larger scale than 1/72 I'm thinking.
If you can get away with it the Scotch brand 3M Metal Repair Tape is ideal for small projects. The adhesive doesn't leave a telll-tell ripple in the finish and it can be burnished easily onto just about any surface. It comes in various widths. Go to the 3M website and chase it down. It's available in most home improvement and hardware stores.
The glue that I use for metal working projects is Quick-Grab and is available through the same outlets as mentioned above. I thin it with either toluene or you can use lacquer thinner keeping it in a separate container ready for use in the thinned form. Brush it on the surface of the aluminum and then carefully place it on the paper. Turn the composite over and gently burnish the surfaces together on a flat surface like glass or finished marble. It will be ready for use in about 30 minutes. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation when you do this. The Quick-Grab doesn't shrink like most of the PVA glues resulting in flat composite laminates.
For glueing aluminum to aluminum use it directly as it comes out of the tube. It tacks and sets approximately like Aleene's Tacky Glue.
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