Airwolf Build #2 For Beginers

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Slorvex, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    John, that's two bucks I could spend on models. Just kidding :D good to know walmart carries it though. How sensitive is it? I like having a little wiggle room if I muss up and it doesn't attach just right. I put it on and notice after a second or two it slipped - am I screwed?I have never used the original yet either, I am finishing off a bottle of Elmer's (but I am gonna go hide it in my kids desk so I can use the Alene's) How fast does the original and quick dry Aleene's dry compared to good old Elmer's glue all? Its always good to have a bench mark - or so my years in I/S have taught me.
  2. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    Wow thanks for the feedback, I will go out and get some of that stuff.

    Oh Also I found if you use a slighty damp Q-Tip on the gloss paper it can remove the glue and bring back the gloss of the paper. :) Just got to be careful as to not rub to hard or too long in one spot, it will start to take the ink of the paper off.
  3. murphyaa

    murphyaa Designer

    From my experience with glues, elmers takes about 5 minutes to dry to where you feel comfortable releasing the part. The Alenes in the gold bottle takes about 2 minutes to dry. The silver Alenes takes about 10 seconds. Avoid the clear Alenes, it's worse than Elmers, and forms a very weak joint.
  4. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    murphyaa nailed it............. do not.... repeat do not..... use the Aleene's Clear Gel Tacky if there is someone who like this stuff, let me know I'll send you a 4 oz bottle for the price of shipping......... no kidding!

    The Aleene's Quick Dry Tacky Glue in the silver bottle is a one shot thing............ get it right the first time, or use whatever else you want.

    You can make adjustments within the 5 second rule, but after that............ game over man!

    But again......... I use this stuff for beta, quick down and dirty builds to check alignment and weather or not I've got the part shaped right during the design................

    If you are into the Carl, Ted, Rick way of building a model, you might just want to stay with Elmer's, as a point of fact, IF I get back into doing a display, man I'm going to keep this sucker, build I would not use this glue but would go back to good old Elmer's................. but for a first time build, I want to see this sucker done..........Aleene's Silver bottle all the way.

    Now for the legal stuff..........

    This is john's opinion, and his alone. He doesn't work for the makers of any products listed, and has been test by an independent group and found to be very opinionated and does not respond well to change. All brands list have their own copy rights and are subject to the laws of each individual state and or country. Offer void where prohibited or taxed. Sent 19.95 USD for a detailed listing of john's opinions in sony beta-max format.
    All price subject to and will change by a factor of 2 for the next 60 seconds offer void after 2 seconds of reading this information. Have a nice day!
    I stand unanimous on this matter
  5. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    LMAO Bowdenja.

    Well I just went out and got posterboard and the Aleene's Silver Tacky Glue. The cheapest thing I could find for a spray adhesive was the same glue i was using. Elmer's Craft Bond Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, This stuff rocks, got page 1 and page 7 laminated on posterboard, and Good Lord this thing is thick lol. Shouldn't have any problems with the lack of a frail frame lol.
  6. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I have aleene's in the gold bottle - original. Its about twice as thick as elmers and dries almost twice as fast. Honestly I wonder if I use enough glue. When using elmers 30 seconds tops. with this 15 is plenty. I put on a VERY thin coat.
  7. B-Manic

    B-Manic Peripheral Visionary

    I use the silver Alenes. It dries pretty fast. The less you use the faster it dries. It gives me enough time to position the piece if necessary but dries fast enough to get on with the build. I strongly suggest you dry fit before glueing and have everything handy you plan to use before starting (tweezers, clamps whatever). It does not give you much time before it sets up if the directions are followed. If you use it as normal glue you will have a little more time.

    The only thing wrong with it is using too much will cause paper to swell and pulp-up. This is especially true when butt glueing.
  8. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    Yeah the Aleene's Silver is tons better than any glue I have used. (besides Super Glue lol.) When it says fast it does a good job of being fast. What I was looking for.

    Well finally got around to building the Nose and windsheild. I think I have decided to do a beta test build first for myself to get familure with it, then redo it. I have to say for my first build I am impressed.

    I have to say this was a pain lol. Sorry for the blurry pic, was in a hurry lol.
  9. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    Damn to bad this machine crashed killing 3 people. Was such a beauty in her day.

  10. Chief400

    Chief400 Member

    Yes but she was being used as an Air Ambulance.....wonder how many she saved.....being struck by lightening is just plain bad luck.....
  11. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    Looks like you cleared the first hurdle! Congrats I hope this inspires you to keep going.
  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    nice job on the nose!
  13. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    Thanks it took a little swearing but it came out ok lol.
  14. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    I managed to get the Fame done, except A13 the little peice that goes in at the end of the tail section. Not understanding how this goes in standing straight up like A12.




    Any help on that matter will be greatfully apreciated. Also I have another question. When it comes to wrapping whats the best way to wrap the frame? Take strips of paper and go, Vertically, or Horizontally? Last time i went Horizontal.

    I must admit my last attempt came out crooked but now this thing is pretty straight and built solid. Posterboard is really nice. What other peices need to have it besides sheets 1 and 7?

    Btw This glue absolutly ROCKS!!!!!
  15. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    you still need to glue thin strips of paper along specified parts of the frame. this is really important.... :) when you say wrapping are you talking about putting the printed skin on the helicopter?
  16. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    No I am talking about strips of paper around the formers as in wrapping, I couldn't wait so I made it Horizontal. So now I have the fusalage glued to the frame now.
  17. Willja67

    Willja67 Member


    If I'm seeing this right you've got A3, A4 and A9 assembled wrong. A3 is the floor of the cockpit. A5 and A6 sit on top of A3. The portions of A4 that have the x's through them are where the pilots put there feet through to reach the rudder pedals. Take a good look at the front of A1 and you'll see that part of it has the same profile as A5 and A6. There's a little slot in the front of A1 and A3 inserts into that.
  18. Kevin G

    Kevin G Member

    Build is looking great so far! There seems to be alot of discussion about what glue to use but noone has mentioned your cutting surface. I was just wondering if there is a reason you choose to use a clipboard instead of a cutting mat? I would think you might run into some problems when cutting out parts over the gouges in the clipboard from cutting out previous parts. Anyways, keep up the great work man, can't wait to see how this build turns out.
  19. Slorvex

    Slorvex New Member

    Well Too LAte now I mean I got it all glued together and wrapped the fusalage already. Don't see how that could be a problem since it's not seen.

    I was going by the instructions. It's the way it looked like everything went together lol.

    Well I wanted a Matt but was not paying almost $20 at wal-mart for one. And to be honest I was concearned about the cuts in the clipboard, but I have not ran into any problems cutting. Plus I like the fact I can move the paper around easily, and the clip part holds the paper nicely.

    As far as the build is concearned. Well I just want to get it built. I will build another. This is just a learning experience for me. Plus I am not happy with the results of it so far. I mean it looks ok as far as it is put together but i got glue all over it.

    Just still erks me I messed up the Frame. I see what you are saying WIll, but still scratching my head. Never saw photos of the frame being built. I see what some of it you mean but not other things. I know it's hard to explain it to someone.

    Well here is what I got and don't worry about the strips in the tail section have yet to cut em. and tested the tail section it all fits.


    So can someone tell me how A13 supposed to go?

    Like I said I think the way it is now I shouldn't run into any problems with what I have right now. Just this is a First build . to find mistakes and to correct them in the final build I do. What Else am Iscrewing up. Instructions are really not that detailed lol.
  20. Willja67

    Willja67 Member

    A13 butts into the back of the frame. As for the strips I only wrap them around the formers for the simple reason that it keeps the frame from showing through the skin(with the exception of the places where they double as joining strips).

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