Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by cmdrted, Jan 2, 2007.
... fingers crossed of course that everything fits...
Trial dry fit if the Maly cockpit to the fuse segment. The Maly kit is bulkhear former to former in construction, I may use this method as designed just to show how it's done. I don't think it gives as good a fuselage as strip joined but I'm sticking to how the kits were designed for now...
looking super! thanks for sharing
some small progress this evening, the gunsights on both kits leave alot to be desired. I can understand the Maly, (L) but the Orlik is a bit disappointing. I can kitbash/swipe one from the Halinski F model but I wanted to do these 2 "stock".
Started on the Orlik control panel, I think I'm liking the cutting out the instrument thing. does look pretty cool. Here she is installed.
Port fuselage closed up...
Fuselage outer skin dry fitted...
Both cockpits all closed up. Maly in the back Orlik to the fore...
hmmm, so far orlik 1 maly 0
just my opinion great builds on both though - excellent photos as well - whats your secret???
Here is the Maly cockpit segment in retro build. I decided to do both kits as designed, the Maly kit is former to former. The 1st step in this is to get the former for the section you are working on and the next segment...
Cut them out as previous lightly glue them together with a light tack glue. I use a dab of glue stick. You need to keep the toghether as you are going to sand them both to shape, incluseing the fuselage taper for the 2 sections.
And sand them together, the fit should be as perfect as possible.
Now the real trick to this is DO NOT glue the bulkhead formers flush with the fuselage skin. Sand the formers down enough to allow them to be slip fit but @1/2 mm below the skin. This is for the following reasons: when you glue the section to section you actually want to glue on the fuse skin. Just use enough glue on the center of the former to give it a little strenght. This allows the fuselage skins to kinda mush up to each other. You have to spread a little glue to both sections to be joined. The other reason is if you use too much glue on the card former it won't have anywhere to go except out onto the skins. Yes it seems it should squish into the big finger holes in the center but Murphy says "no out to the skin with ye". And yet another , if the parts don't quite match up in size you can gently sand one or the other section down a bit. It is easier to sand small bits of skin than a 1mm thick former.
The mateing surface to the last part...
And finally through our awesome alien fuzing technology the parts , well, fuzed!
The brass rod is the prop spinning thingy, that'll somehow go into the spinner. I thought it's a little easier to do it this way than to retro fit later...
Some teeth for the Maly!
That's an interesting technique Ted, it would not have occured to me. So you actually have a little gap between formers, then? I always assumed this type of construction mated the 2 formers right to each other with no gap.
Do others do it this way or is this your "secret" (well WAS it your secret)?
And now the Orlik. Things were going pretty well with fit so far. I ran into a small fit proble with the aft cockpit, but nothing that a little grindings couldn't handle. The exhaust opening in the formers was a bit too small, so I cut the pipe holding thing, (manifold?), and fit each of the surfaces into the recess. The other side fit with a little squeezing but it made it.
The other fit problem so far is the fwd skin. It just doesn't make it down to both exhaust recesses. I painted the bare paper over and fit it as best as it could. i'll probably add a little strip later to plug up that gap.
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