700 x 80 WWI - 1:33 - Spoked Wheel Project

Discussion in 'Gallery & Designs' started by Gil, Jan 19, 2007.

  1. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    OK, so one more loop like the first, on the remaining red tabs, and then turn the whole thing over and do two more loops from that side, on the blue tabs, right? - L.
  2. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Good & Thanks

    Hi Leif,

    Correct, but you don't have to turn it over. It is all done from the same side as you'll see. The point I wanted to make here was how well this schematic conveyed the required action. Lacing seems to be quite simple to the first time fabricator. It isn't till they're half way through that the "rhythm of the stitch" is lost and the only way to recover is to start over again (a little sotto voce from experience). This schematic is an attempt to visualize the process to make it amply clear to those building it for the first time.

    Also notice that the spoking filament wraps around the hub on each crossing. This differs from Eric's incarnation which uses a diametrically opposed style lacing. The reason for this is to obtain a better "bite" by the filament on the hub to keep it from slipping off.

    This is pretty near the last illustration required for the tutorial and I wanted to get some feedback to assess its effectiveness. Thanks for tuning in and making the comment.

  3. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    So your stitch pattern is made up of 4 5-pointed stars?
  4. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Good Inspection

    Hi John,

    Correct. Two on one side (red) and two on the other (blue). It's great that you were able to deduce this with help from the schematic. Spoke pattern geometries have their own special fascination and I've tried to avoid getting to far into them in the interests of finishing the much promised tutorial.

  5. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    ok........... and if I can still venture a guess.............

    the start of the second "star" goes from your start point around the hub overtop of the blue stitch to the red keystone between numbers 5 & 2

    then to red keystone 4 & 1,
    then to red keystone 3 & 5,
    then to red keystone 2 & 4,

    with each stitch goes overtop of last completed stitch

    Then going to which blue keystone 1 & 3 or 4 & 1............

    My guess (probably incorrectly would be 4 & 1............. to give a longer outside cover stitch....... maybe?

    Oh.......... and I numbered the keystones counter-clockwise as this seems to be the pattern of the stitch .

  6. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    Sequence is almost right. The start goes to the keystone between 4-2 followed by 5-3, 4-1, 5-2 and finishing at 3-1. An easy way to look at this is to rotate the lacing star (and numbers) counter-clockwise by one red keystone. When lacing I use a simple rule; looking at the lacing fixture from the top the lace always goes to the left of the hub. The blue or other side of the spoking pattern follows this same pattern but is wound around the elevated part of the hub assembly.

    Thanks for taking the time for the feedback. I can see it needs a little more work to clarify these details. I consider this sequence to be a very important part of the assembly process requiring expertise in the craft similar to crocheting, knitting, fishnet mending and general knot tying. It appears to be easy at first glance but becomes rather complicated when the eye-hand-brain need to coordinate the activity and the neuron pathways haven't been conditioned yet. I had to learn how to do this from scratch and have to admit it took more practice to become competent than I'd like to admit. That's the reason for taking the time now to insure others have a better, shorter and more rewarding experience.

  7. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Gottcha............ I was working counter-clockwise and that was incorrect!

    After finishing the second red star pattern............ which blue keystone starts the next sequence, and do you still continue the pattern clockwise on the blue keystones?

  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Repeat Red on Blue


    Just repeat the sequence but on blue. Doesn't really matter where you begin but it's easiest just to go one keystone over to blue after finishing the last red and begin lacing the blue side in the same counter-clockwise pattern.

    Notice that the pattern can be either clockwise or counter-clockwise. I arbitrarily chose counter-clockwise because I am right handed. Left handed people may want to reverse this to make it easier.

  9. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    I guess it only a matter to continue the same way once you start!

    I WAS a lefty until school and I'm married to a lefty so I'm doomed all the way around!

    Can't wait for the tutorial.............. I'm a WWI buff but in hiding because of my building skills:oops:

    Thanks again Gil!

  10. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Clarifying Illustration

    Hello John,

    This is the latest illustration of the red side lacing. It includes the entire sequence for that side and also indicates where the blue layer begins.


  11. Ivan_886433

    Ivan_886433 New Member

    mybe you should provide some picture to show the process you assemble it.
  12. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Tutorial in the Offing


    The tutorial is currently being prepared.

  13. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    After getting the tutorial nearly completed I decided that the design just wasn't good enough to release. Backtracking, the best techniques were salvaged and used in a new design. It is pretty good but still has some rough points that need taming before it's ready for prime time. It does require a few more jigs for the assembly process. More as it occurs...,


  14. 57townsman

    57townsman Member


    Your first diagram was easily understandable and your second made it a piece of cake :) I'm really looking forward to your tutorial, hope it will be available soon!

    Thanks for everything,
  15. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    :-o :-o :-o :-o :-o :-o

    Okay, how I missed this thread until now is beyond me.
    You're definately pushing the envelope as to what is possible with paper.

    Following this with interest for sure!
  16. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    I'm Following It With Interest Too...,

    This may look like a gigantic leap backward and in a way it is. The image below looks like a macrame doodle by a becalmed sailor. The saving grace is that it doesn't use CA to glue the tire halves together, PVA is used instead. Also it doesn't use monofilament nylon for the spoke lacing. The spokes are laced from "A" size silk chord which accounts for the ropey look of the spokes. An order for 100 and 50 weight, single strand silk thread is on its way which will yield a better appearence. The one great benefit of using silk is that it allows the use of PVA glue alleviating the anxieties of CA and other related adhesives. The silk crushes flat so that the tire halves come together without a noticeable gap. If any of the spokes are limp just spray with water and dry with a hair dryer. It will shrink tight.

    Eric, if your reading this you have to be laughing...,


  17. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

    Not laughing.

    I used silk for rigging and spoked wheels on my last 1/48 project and am also using it on my current (s-l-o-w-l-y progressing) 1/32 job. Love it. Monofilament can look more "correct" if everything goes right, but it's just too much trouble.
  18. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Smooth As Silk...,

    That's the same conclusion that I reached. I thought "somebody else is going to try to build this who doesn't have any practice", that's when I decided to rethink the design. You left a hint awhile back regarding the 100 weight single strand silk which I followed up on by placing an order for both 100 and 50 weight thread. Assembly using the silk just fell into place. I feel that this is the right material and technique for the purpose. In fact this makes forming the wheel halves the hardest part of the process. Oh well!

  19. EricGoedkoop

    EricGoedkoop Member

    Live and learn, right?

    I suspect 50 weight may be too heavy for the size you're working on. I've found the 100wt to look about right in 1/32; you may remember how out-of-scale it was on my little Hanriot. To be honest, I decided to build at a larger scale so I could use the silk! I'm guessing the 50wt would be good in 1/24 or 1/16, 100wt for 1/32 and we should avoid anything smaller. . . .

    Current project has covered wheels so I won't get to play with spokes any time soon. Next one, though.
  20. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member


    I applaud the decision to find a way to use PVA and silk thread. Now I anticipate the outcome even more.

    Gil & Eric - how do I recognize "50wt" and "100wt" at the embroidery shop - any equivalents in European language that you know about?


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