1/4 scale Mercury Capsule

Discussion in 'Space & Aeronautics' started by Mercsim, May 28, 2007.

  1. Mercsim

    Mercsim Member

    I had similar issues printing early on. I finally figured it out. It was a combination of printer settings and the program I was printing with. I don't remember the exact fix but it is possible. I eventually ended up buying Acrobat which made many problems go away. There were a few files, mostly the skin ones, that I just couldn't get to the edge. I printed most of my files from the CAD program but tested a lot of them from the PDF files.

    One day the lightbulb went off in my head. I realized I shouldn't care! The edges that were getting cut off could be easily penciled in, usually with a ruler. I also realized I could just lay the straight edge where the lines were supposed to be and cut away. You'll never know the difference in the end. So don't get too hung up on printing them all out perfect. Just start cutting and you'll see it doesn't matter.....

    If there is a file that you absolutely can't get right, I'll print it from CAD and mail it to you. Of course I switched to a MAC a year ago and have a different printer so I could be totally hosed but I suspect between us all, we'll work it out...

  2. lairdre

    lairdre Member

    PDF image larger then Print area

    When using a PDF file that prints larger than your print area another thing that can be done is to print your first copy, then 'select' the area of the print image that is larger than your print area, now just print the selected area. I have to use this technique whenever I use non-letter paper pdf files.
  3. lancer525

    lancer525 Member

    I'm not sure what the printing issue was, but I believe it may have been something in that particular PDF page that wasn't getting translated to the printer. I test-printed it on legal sized paper, and it still cut the bottom off.
    It was only that one page, because printing all the rest of them with legal-size settings did the trick, as my wife suggested. I owe her a nice dinner for that!. I discovered quite by accident that I could do the "Print selected area only" thing, and that enabled me to get the rest of the scanner bracket off of that one page.

    One other thing I discovered, was that I could measure out a printed piece (after I'd screwed one up by gluing it in backwards!) and redraft the edges in paint shop, paste them into word, and then scale the image in word to print at the right size. So, I added a little color and details to some of the tiny parts. Heh.

    I'm making some progress, but I'm having some warping issues and no small amount of difficulty making the edges of the flanges line up with the flat surfaces of the "ring" parts. I wish I knew how to glue edges together where there wasn't any warping. I've also got a couple of parts that I have absolutely NO clue where they go! <insert sheepish grin here> A couple of photos are forthcoming.

    On another note, I've found the proper size to have an astronaut for this spacecraft.

    Gus Grissom was 5'-6" tall. Deke Slayton was just under 5'-11". Al Shepard and John Glenn were both 5'-10". Scotty Carpenter was 5'-7" while Wally Schirra and Gordo Cooper were both 5'-9. So, an astronaut Gus's size would be scaled down to 16.5" and one Deke's size would be 17.6" tall. Making an 18" sized astronaut just a shade too long. Therefore, the "Gene and Tonner" sized male dolls would be just about right for this spacecraft. Anyone want to try to make a helmet the right size?
  4. Mercsim

    Mercsim Member


    I know it can be frustrating but once you get the hang of it, it will go together easy. Other builders said part descriptions didn't match the photos but after careful studying, they did. If we find a mistake, I will fix it. I went over the instructions again (I can't believe they are 2 years old) and think I can help. First you need to read them exact to get started with the right parts.

    "Cut the three ring segments for the upper flange from the bottom of Card_Surface1 and glue them to Card_Structure1. Notice the photo below show the wrong color for Card_Structure1. This is just for the instructions to show where the parts go. We are actually doubling the upper ring to add a little stiffness."

    Use very little glue and keep it thin. Weighting the parts until they dry will help keep them flat. I didn't really have any problems with this.

    "Add the pieces shown under the cloths pins. They are the side ones on Card_Surface2. Make sure the cone is opening upward. The upper flange is being assembled upside down."

    This is exactly correct. Start with just one of the three pieces and just wrap it around the part glued above. The curvature will allow it to lay on the lighter gray piece shown in the instructions. I don't show it but I used a bunch of coins to hold pressure around the outside. Maybe I'll try to get another photo of this for you. Looking at the photo, assume we are starting on the first piece and the cloths pins are not there. Put a small drop of glue on one end (like near the top clothe pin in the photo) and let it sit for a minute or so. Now using your right hand (if building like the photo), gently curve the piece around and slide some coins up agaist it on the outer edge to hold it in place. It should look just lie the photo (1/3 of it). Now come but with a sharp toothpick and gently lay a very small bead of glue in the joint. I use the Elmers gel. It will dry in 5 minutes. Add the other 2 pieces. This whole process should take 15 mintues or so. When done, you can cut it out of the sheet along the outer edge. You will have a very stiff part.

    Don't be afraid to get some regular white card stock and practice. I built every part at least twice to get it the way I wanted as I designed it. Its good practice...

    E-mail me if you need more help and I'll give you my phone number.

  5. lancer525

    lancer525 Member

    Well, Scott... As I said, I think most of the issues were Builder Error, so you don't have a thing to try to defend, or even to worry about.

    The only problem I have with how the parts are laid out on the drawings, is that there's really no "UP" indicated, or even where some of the parts actually go. That is something that no one could predict, so I again, have no beef with how things are done, from your end.

    I did find one place, and have photographic proof of it, that shows where a photo in the instructions do not match the printed parts sheets. The text is in different locations, there are lines missing, and the sheet in general doesn't quite match up.



    But this is also very minor. You did a thorough, outstanding job of designing this model, and I am gob smacked at the results.

    As I said, I am waiting on more paper, and I'll get started as soon as it gets here.

    Thanks again, Scott, and sorry for seeming to come down on you man. The frustration is mine, and I apologize.
  6. Hey lance, I know the instructions are not perfect but I managed OK. I just studied the pictures very closely. Any parts that were left over didn't matter becasue I couldn't find them in the pictures either. No one is going to count the rivets. Just do your best and you will have a nice model.
  7. lancer525

    lancer525 Member

    Oh, worry not! I fully intend to have fun with it, as soon as I can A) figure out what the issues were with my first attempt and not replicate them, B) get more paper!

    I didn't intend to come off so nitpicky and critical. Last thing on my mind. If I did sound too harsh, I apologize.

    This is really a fun build, in spite of the self-imposed frustration factor.:p
  8. Mercsim

    Mercsim Member

    Hey, no worries!. If you follow the whole thread you'll learn this was mostly an afterthought. I built the card model to validate my full size replica project. After It was done, I decided to 'throw' some instructions together, organize the parts, and see if I could post the model. You'll find many instructions don't match photos. Many of the photos are staged for the instructions and might not look the same as the actual instruction. I often used photos I had because I had already built the parts and didn't want to re-build just for the instructions.

    I caught some heat for posting such crummy instructions and I always tried to defend my self and with the attitude, "at least I did them to share and its free" If I actually wanted to charge for this it would be different but I knew only a few modelers would ever attempt this model and I could help them individually complete theirs. As far as I know, Tim is tho only one that has gotten as far as having a complete structure. He did a great job and I owe it to him to finish the last details which I will.

    As far as I know, this is the only structural representation of ANY spacecraft model available anywhere! Once we get some interior details finished and produce some shingles, it will be truly one of a kind!

    Football season is nearly over. I'm excited about working on it soon.


    Feel free to contact me anytime with questions or comments.
  9. lancer525

    lancer525 Member

    Dude, you're one of a kind fantastic... I can't imagine being able to do what you've done. I will do my dead-level best to help out any way I can.

    Bravo, and three cheers for Scott!
  10. Mechanic

    Mechanic Member

    I think it's safe to say it already is a one of a kind work. :thumb:
  11. Scott, I am sure that is a safe bet. That is why mine is destined for the Aerospace museum in San Diego.
  12. PaperAir

    PaperAir Active Member

    What ever happened to this was it ever finished?
  13. jgderuvo

    jgderuvo Member

    If you ever get around to building a full scale Gemini, I may build it along side you!
  14. Mercsim

    Mercsim Member

    Boy, I hear (read) you! I became a new dad of two foster children a year and a half ago and just adopted them last week. I look at my model every day and dream of working on it. Things are settling into a groove around the house and my wife reminds me of my capsule project too often.

    Back at you....Has anyone else worked on it? Remember from post #108, this was a test project for me. I never intended to make it a 'public' card model. I will however get back to it. It is part of a life long dream and still sits at the top of my priority list. Well, right behind the 2and 4 year olds, and the wife, and the dogs, and the new house, and the new career, and .....

    I can't believe post #108 is a year old! I need to get my aft heatshield in gear!

    Scott Todd
  15. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    I also began on the model a while back, and still have the files ready for building. Too often I am sidetracked, so I understand how life gets in the way. I'm ready when you guys are. :)
  16. PaperAir

    PaperAir Active Member

    Well I guest I better go to the store and get some paper.So I can give this one a shot.What weight paper works best?:thumb:
  17. Mercsim

    Mercsim Member

    I used Staples #65 Gray cover Stock (125 sheet package) and Staples #110 Gray Card Stock (250 sheet package). I Don't remember exactly what went where but the stringers were probably the #110 and the instructions might help. All the other colors were just stuff I picked up at the local craft store.

  18. PaperAir

    PaperAir Active Member

    Thank you I was thinking of using silver paper.anyone know of any silver paper that can be printed on.And where to get it.
  19. Elliott

    Elliott Senior Member

    Do a Search for Red River Silver Paper on the forum here. You'll get a number of hits with links and good advice.
  20. PaperAir

    PaperAir Active Member

    thank you Elliott.

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