1:144 Scale DC-3

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Szdfan, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member

    It depends what your "normal" copy paper is. Many use a 20lb all-purpose paper which would be too light in my opinion. If I get something printed at Staples their normal paper is a high quality 28 lb paper which might work for modeling. I've had excellent results with a 32lb cardstock I bought at Staples. It's a nice in-between weight for very small models/parts. I'd recommend that as a minimum. I used to use 67lb for everything, then changed to 110lb for sturdiness and durability, employing lighter weights for small parts and details.


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  2. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I'm a big fan of 110 lb. card stock also. I find it works on almost anything, holds it's shape well too. Sharpies don't bleed as easily and can be used for touch up too.

  3. Szdfan

    Szdfan Member

    So I did some experiments last week building the cockpit out of paper.





    A couple of observations --

    1) The macro setting on my camera is REALLY unforgiving.
    2) Unlike the heavier card stock I had previously tried (sorry I don't know the thickness), I was able to actually bend the parts successfully and glue something together. I know this is kind of an obvious point, but I'm a newbie at this, so it's a discovery for me. :mrgreen:
    3) I might have to figure out something different for the nose. Both the Bob's and FG's models construct the nose the same way, which is too small at 1:144. I tried twice and both times ended up with a gloopy mess.
    4) The paper does hold its shape pretty well, but as you can see from the pictures, it's still too flexible and doesn't hold the shape well enough. My cockpit looks like it crashed into something.
    5) Small scale card modeling is challenging! But I confess to feeling satisfaction when I managed with my big hands to glue those tiny bits of paper together.

    Thanks to the advice about paper thickness. I will be ordering a couple of different thicknesses. I live in a rural town in southeastern Colorado -- the local Walmart doesn't have a lot of options and the closest Staples is an hour away.
  4. Szdfan

    Szdfan Member


    What a really great model, thanks for sharing!
  5. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I would try getting it into the shape that's right, using a pencil eraser, whatever works. The fill it with a two part liquid hardener (enough to coat the edges, not filled to the top). That way you can work with it after it hardens.

    If you were to do it over, I would recommend printing it twice, take one set of the parts and cut them smaller, the form the parts beforehand, dry fit, then, when everything id ready you glue. This would laminate it up and you wouldn't have the problems trying to make it with thicker paper. By cutting the inside parts a bit smaller, you won't have fit issues, and you could reenforce the joints with glue. Just a thought. I can't believe how small that is, and also must compliment you on the sharpness of your picture! :)
  6. Szdfan

    Szdfan Member

    Right now I'm just experimenting, so I will be trying it again until I start getting a result that I'm happy with.

    Just a couple of questions for clarification --

    • What's liquid hardener? Are you recommending I coat the edges of the paper and not the coat the top?
    • In regards to laminating the layers, are you suggesting the smaller layer, goes under the larger layer or vice versa?
    Yeah...I just discovered the macro setting on my old Canon SE IS. It's awesome.
  7. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    The smaller, (ever so slightly) would go on the inside. I think any 2 part liquid epoxy would work, the ones that come in the double syringes and mix automatically, for instance. I think you could just laminate the inside with a bunch of strips of paper and glue and get the same result too though. Many ways of doing the same thing. Things change when the windows come out and an interior goes in. :)
  8. Szdfan

    Szdfan Member

    The insane part of me has thought about an interior. I'm trying not to listen to him jabbering away.
  9. ted181

    ted181 New Member

    I dont have the skills to do interiors of planes, so I will stuff my planes with tissues. That is my personal choice.
  10. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member

    Szdfan, some good cross-clamp type tweezers are extremely valuable at this small scale too. The kind that you squeeze to open, and when you release they close. You can grip and hold very small parts more easily, use the tweezers to hold one part in place while you glue another part to it, or just to hold a prt while the glue dries a bit.

    Another tip when working with really small stuff like this is to give the glue more drying time. After just a minute or two the glue is often set enough that you can handle the parts and work with them, but after 5 or ten minutes it's much more solid. Sometimes when parts are giving me lots of trouble I find slowing down and letting the individual parts dry more before putting them together helps a lot. Worth keeping in mind.

    Can't wait to see more.

  11. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    I won't say that size is too small for an interior, but I have not seen a model that small with an interior. Of course, by using formers, the shape would hold. It's not impossible, just depends on how much time you want to put into it. :)


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