Beroc's Introduction

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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Hello and welcome to Zealot.
We have many members here who are designers as well as many members who are into WH40K. Hopefully, you will feel right at home here.

If you have any photos of your builds, please post them (WE LOVE SEEING PHOTOS)!

If you have any questions, comments, concerns, need help or advice, please feel free to as and we will do what we can to help you (or at least point you in the right direction).

Once again welcome aboard and I look forward to seeing your work!!!
 

zathros

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Beroc, Lord of Destruction, Welcome. I am zathros, Lord of Creation, so I trump you here! I checked out your website/Blog, but it came up a white page. The destruction was quite thorough!

All kidding aside, Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your work. :)
 

zathros

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Nice looking tank, Destruction, bull, that's a wonderful work of construction!! Very nice. These tanks are my particular "cup of tea" but I have seen enough of them to know a good one from a "meh" one. This is one I would not mind having on my shelf any day of the week. :)
 
My first model I made was a Ork Battle wagon. (which will probably never see pictures) I did it because I was enamored with Elli Patoroch's paper model designs. OMG was it complex. I chose it because my friend plays Orks and said how he wanted one to play with but was way too pricey (as everything Games-Workshop does) So I found those plans and made it. Honestly, it wasn't bad, but it was a learning experience.

Playing Dawn of War 2, I found they made a Bane blade. Devastating tank in the game, It was HUGE!!! So I decided to make one for myself. About the only humans I have for an army is Space Marines (Ultramarines), so I decided that I was going to use all I learned by my first model and produce the Bane blade that is above. After all was said and done, it was a very nice looking model. However... It has many faults. (the biggest fault is that Ultramarines by them self can't have the blasted thing... :( )

Next, I said, how do I want to play my Ultramaries. I thought. "OK, I want to make a pure 'fighty' space marines army. So how do you do that? Why you give everyone and everything that you can shields and big power weapons. Stuff them into land raiders and drive them all over your enemy. When you get close, bust out the CC's and tie up the troops while your land raider picks off mega targets."

I figured with a 1500 point army, I could field 3 land raiders and troops and such.... Hence... I made a land raider... so I am supposed to make 3 of them.. I have the second one in progress. This one is happening much faster.

So, from the original plans I found that I had to tweak things. Like turn major body parts to face the same direction pieces that they fit onto. You can see from the original land raider that the gun mounts on the side are crap. I am working on that part now. Instead of making them from a tabbed folded model, I am trying to just make them from two pieces on chip board. This won't look as pro, but it should be far more stable. The original plans also stated that you should build the body and fit it all together.... DON'T DO IT... build your center and two track sections separately. Then glue them together right before you mount the outside guns. I had so many alignment problems because I followed the instructions. The instructions also say nothing about the whole you have to cut on either side to make room for the side mounted guns, so I didn't even glue the whole side together in a model until after all of the add on pieces were put on and I had my hole cut.

Here is a good hint if you are going down this road. Use a black sharpie with a big chisel tip to hide the white of the paper. Score all of your cuts, and fold the score all the way back and use the sharpie to mark both side sides of the paper. This gives you a very clean black, instead of leaving pieces of white that you can really never go back in and touch up to get rid of. Also, black line everything before you glue anything. This includes tabs. The new land raider is about 1000 times cleaner the the first... Again... learning as I go.

Enjoy...

landraider3.jpg
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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These are GREAT LOOKING models!
Thank you for the tips and suggestions on building these! It is VERY informative!
 
Hello again. Yep, it's been a few days.

I put my Landraider project on hold for a side project that I felt was worth some attention. Since its a hobby, I can do that sort of thing. I went looking for a good printout for a Warhound Titan. (again, go big, or go home) I didn't find one that was spectacular. However, I did find a simple DIY Warhound (if you search google for that you will find the pdf) This was a basic black and white version of a Warhound. So I set out to make it. I quickly found that it was missing alot of stuff, and had zero detail. It did however, have shape.

So, I sent out to remake it into the type of titan I wanted to make. I took the bitmap plans and put them into Illustrator and went to town. The goal was to make almost every piece better in some manner. Using the stuff I learned from the previous models and Patoroch's skills. I knew I could add simple lines to just about everything and make it all fancy schmancy. I wanted more. In the plans I saw that they require some piston to be added to it. There is nothing in there about a piston. So I had to do some calculations and measuring and playing to get a cool piston. What I came up with was a big piston that actually acted like a piston. Next, I wanted the basic model to be more 3d. Not just lines added onto whatever and colorized. I added new pieces that fit the motif. I looked at many pictures of the Warhound from Games Workshop. It had quite a bit of filigree. So that was my next part. Add coolness to the model.

So enough talking. Let me give you guys some pictures with a couple of thoughts...

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The new foot compared to the old foot.


This is about my lucky piston. A simple hint is to use anything you can to make things right. You can see that I tightly wrap one part around a screwdriver and the other around an Xacto knife. With that done, Now, I glued all of my pieces in place. (except for the opening.)
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Here is a good hint. If you ever have to glue something that is very close to another thing but don't want them to be permanently stuck together. Put some glue on an extra sheet of paper. then use your finger to transfer the glue into the place you want, lightly. Once you have the glue in place, set your piece. This is all done very carefully.

Best thing in the world.......

Elmers Craft Bond Quick Dry Glue... OMG, it is almost as good as sooper glue.
 
I was going to give this a header of "Pass the joint" I figured that the admins would frown on it.

So I got to thinking. The plans show the use of all this "non-paper" material. As this is an exercise in building my titan solely out of paper, that would not do... I thought long and hard on how I could achieve the 1" PVC on the lower and upper weapon mounts. They had to be very stout and still be functional. I saw (at some point) where a guy built an entire Warhound using paper, but it didn't look like the plans I started. He went way farther paper wise than I intend to do here. It was a very structural model and he went way beyond the 40k stuff.

http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/painting/142802-cheap-titan-you-say.html

OK, so on to some pics. (This is really a guide on how to assemble the joint)

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So the first thing I did was to design the whole thing in 3ds max. It involved an outer holder and a lower insert. Here is the beginning of the holder. It is an outer casing, a cap, in inside casing and some corrugation material. The load of the weapon should pull against the outer casing and the glue that attaches it to the top. Since this is perhaps the greatest load here, I glued that zig zaggy thing into the cap to make it fairly solid.
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Next, I put a cap on the inside of the upper sleeve. once completely glued, that sucker won't move. The corrugation will keep the whole upper part in place.

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Now I am starting to work on the joint that sits inside of it.the same corrugation is applied here, but the sleeves are reversed. (it will all make sense in a bit)

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Now, I build the other side. using the same as above. This will create a yo yo. I put the top of the second part on before I built it.


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Glue and pressure... gotta have pressure.

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Now, I am building the pins that hold this all in place. This small piece will be the part that you pull out to release the joint. (it will allow you to change weapons on the titan)

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And finally the completed joint. It is very tight. The pin head is reinforced to make sure it can handle some wear of taking it in and out. I may revisit it at a later date.

Imagine that the top is glued to the shoulder and the bottom is glued to a weapon. It rotates freely though.
 
Hello all again.

Today (actually yesterday) I got to work on my shin guards for my titan. The original ones followed an older titan and didn't look very impressive. So I went into max and tinkered around until I found something that was pretty cool. Printed it out and tested it... WRONG.... so I made some changes... WRONG.. then some more.... WRONG.... OMG I wasted paper on this.

So to make a long story short, I finally got the concept working and everything seemed to be working fine. As I was doing tests I realized that there wasn't any connection between the two sides, so I also included a connection between them, so that as it set, it would hold a bit better. (the first ones where very skewed) With the amount of gluing and waiting time it takes to make this, I had to add marks and tabs to help with alignment.

Pics of the process: (again, kind of an instructional about how to assemble this)

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First, I glued the braceed side for the farthest point on my sides and glued the brace together. This way, I could see the shape as I was working on it. (Do remember, that I bent all of the teeth in this and black lined it so I wouldn't be too messy later. I also wrapped the whole guard, so I got a predictable shape. To do this, I simply used the curved part of my desk and pulled it back and forth across it. This warped the paper and gave it shape.)

20140812_104916_resized.jpg
Next, I glued the next tab section into place while curving the part that goes up to it. I also glued that brace to set the shape. I then proceeded to glue the curve between them, then started on the upper section. You can see in the picture that the front teeth and parts are pushed into the model. This is so that the teeth quit grabbing the front. It is very hard to glue stuff when it is pushing against what you are trying to glue. It is important to note that the front vertical piece (the one that leads to the front) is not glued. This is so that I can maneuver the front into place for gluing. If I glued it, the next part would be next to impossible.

20140812_105420_resized.jpg

Now, I glued the front center and matched the mark for alignment. I actually only glued the first 2 teeth. This way It gets the center but I don't have to mess with trying to keep everything level at this point. 2 teeth at a time, I glue and level them until I have them all done. With the last teeth on each side, I also glue the upper piece that I did not glue earlier. (You can see excessive glue on the model. It is white glue that dries clear.) The problem I encountered on this was that the pieces were very hard to keep edge to edge. In the end, that was not hugely important. Black marker fixes anything... LOL)


20140812_110345_resized.jpg

OK, the next part is the bottom side of the guard. I glued the two ends onto the bottom teeth of the other, then glued the center mark. (4 teeth glued)

20140812_111108_resized.jpg
Next, 2-3 teeth at a time, I glued and leveled it until I reached the back part. Again, if the back part is not perfect, that is ok. we can hide it. It should be very close though.

So with all of this, now I let it sit for about 10 minutes so that the glue can become hard. The next step will start to remove the braces. I also take the time to use a marker to black line the back since now it is much sturdier than when it was all apart.

20140812_112139_resized.jpg
Now, onto the back. I warp it so that it fits into the area. and remove the upper brace. (I cut it with some scissors.) Now, I glue all the top teeth in the front and push the back plate into the braced bottom aligning the marks, top and trying to not get it hung up in the bottom teeth. When you press this, the sides should line up as well. Keep lots of pressure on this until that glue sets. (Remember, I am using quick drying white glue, so that is about 20-30 seconds. I hold it longer. (If this comes unglued for any reason, it is going to be a pain to fix.)

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Next. making sure that the bottom teeth are all set in place, I glue about 4 of them and center the bottom mark. I now have the top and a few of the bottom in place

20140812_113429_resized.jpg

Now, I start gluing until I am an inch or so away from the bottom brace on all 4 parts. Again, I wait 10 minutes before I cut that brace so the glue has time to set. I cut the brace at an angle so that it folds correctly into the bottom part. Fold it, black line it and I glue the last of them together. At this point, I pay attention to any skewing that happens as I glue this. Try to make them straight with the rest of the model.

20140812_113718_resized.jpg
Tada... finished. You will see this on the model in later pics. When I put it on it and glued it I got a warm fuzzy feeling, then realized that I forgot to pee during all of this....
 

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Almost to the half way marker. This has been quite an adventure.

Let me start off with the waist joint. As per the shoulder joints, this one had to move. and even better it had to be able to be disconnected. At first, I thought it was going to be this big joint that I could mimic from the other one. Alas, that was not the case. I had about 2 inches by less than a half an inch to work with. So that ruled out the whole paper dowel I used on the other one. I could, however, use a bit of corrugation to make it a little stronger.

Some pics:

20140813_123438_resized.jpg
Like the other, I start off with a double tube and some support for it. It is supposed to hold all the weight of the titan's lower part, so I figured it needed some extra umph.

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The upper part gets some of the same treatment. (thank god this won't be visible, it looks horrible.) Since I only have to keep it locked, then I don't need the big upper case as I had with the gun mounts.

20140813_124828_resized.jpg
Now, you can see the final pieces. They fit into each other and slide. If you look closely at the marks, you have to turn the top around to get it to unlock.


Now onto some pics of some finished stuff:

20140812_113829_resized_1.jpg
This was one of the pics I wanted to post before, but I ran into too many pictures on the post. It shows a pair of scissors holding my link for a piston. Never be afraid to use anything to help you build. Scissors are great tools, now one more use for them. ;)

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OK, this was also supposed to be in the last post. It is the finished guard on a leg.... Yes, you peed just a little too. :D

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What is better than one... TWO... Not only two, but two and the cod piece.

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I am about out of time today, but I can't just leave it this way. I won't have time to upload the pic of it all together, but here are all the pieces almost assembled.

(with a shameless plug for Mnt Dew....)
 
And here I am again... final time for the week.

So I got to tinkering with the body components. Sadly, they just won't do. So I decided to start recreating them from scratch. This and a couple of really good pics of what this thing is supposed to be like. I figure I can do some pretty cool stuff.

Below are the first images of what it should be like. I don't know yet if I am going to redo the guns or not, I know for sure that they are going to be colored correctly though. I tried desperately to not include the sarcophagus from the movie The Chronicles of Riddick. OMG that would make this. But it really wont go with it.

newhead1.jpg newhead2.jpg newhead3.jpg

Til next week.
 

zathros

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Extremely nice Renders! What do you model in? ;)
 

zathros

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"Thread", not "Forum", had me worried for a second!! :)
 

zathros

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I thought I was losing you!! So no, it wasn't the same! I appreciate talent, and I am not trying to blow smoke up your ass either. I respect talented people, especially when they are not egocentric. In the short time you have been here you have displayed good character, a genuine nature, and just ask around, I have a reputation for letting people know what I think of them, (usually after someone has been Bullied). I'm for real. I think you are too. If you wish, I can close this thread and leave a permanent redirect to your new thread., or merge everything except your Introduction, into your new thread. :)
 
LOL, I come from two communities before this... I say that but both I had been a part of for many years each. Carmageddon TDR (where I created about 100 3d models and imported them into the game as mods.) and Unity 3d (where I am a programmer.)

While I am not an administrator of anything, I enjoy being creative. I don't do it because I want applause, I mostly do it to learn new things and create.... It's an art thing.
 
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