"PaperLaul's Terminator 2: Hunter Killer Aerial - by DanBKing"

Status
Not open for further replies.

DanBKing

Dan the Man
After the very witty remarks from @Cybergrinder and the options therein, which are incorrect, I am assuming, @Revell-Fan , that you are referring to a rather lethal weapon, and not a small stone-age child of caracaturitic nature...........?!?!?

Something along the lines of this, maybe ....???

General_463.JPG


Hehehehe! :wink:


(I think I'll be changing this thread title very soon ....... ;);))
 
Last edited:

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Look, I am not stupid, you know. They cannot make things like that yet! - Not yet, not for about 40 years.

BAM-BAM --- BAM --- BAM-BAM!

:D
 
Last edited:

DanBKing

Dan the Man
Hehe. Well it seems that everything is up in the SKY.
However, if it falls, we can catch it with a large NET!

:sticktongue::smug:
 

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
It can't be bargained with ... It can't be reasoned with ... But IT will build this machine!!!! :D
 

DanBKing

Dan the Man
Ok, lets get this thread flying along ...........;)

I have changed the thread title from: "There is a glint on the horizon" to:

"PaperLaul's Terminator 2: Hunter Killer Aerial - by DanBKing"


A while back, when @Revell-Fan posted his internet find of PaperLaul's Hunter Killer, I couldn't download it quick enough! :)

This is the link for the website and model: http://paperlaul.com/blog/

This post consists of my ideas for the model and what I hope to achieve as an end result.

The finish .....

My initial idea was to paint the model with a semi-transparant chrome coating. I wanted to have it semi-transparant so that the printed textures would show through the paint. However, after a lengthy discussion with my airbrushing housemate, he said that chrome spray can only be applied with full opacity and therefore the texture would not be visible ...... :(

So, that idea was scrapped.........

But, I still want the finished model to have a very high chrome like shine, so there was only one option left for me to achieve that: I would have to greeble-in all the detail and textures! That is not so much of an issue, but, when I studied the Pepakura 3D model, I noticed that the texturally added 'panel lines' and the model joints do not match up.
The studio model in the film has large panels and a smooth, almost fluid-like, quick-silver look to it.......

So my basic plan of action to achieve this look is:
  • Build the basic shell of the model from the templates as designed, but removing all tabs and edge gluing and back-tabbing ALL joints.
  • Strengthen all model joints, where they cross or intersect a textured panel, with CA glue.
  • Sand/fill/sand/fill/sand/etc, these joints to achieve a nice smooth finish.
  • Trace the full textured panels of the constructed model shell and transfer these tracings to card of various thicknesses, using the parts from a second copy of the templates, as a guide.....
  • Using water shaping methods, glue these full panels onto the model. At the end of the build, the model will have a second skin, and will be correct in the panelling of the studio model
  • Once all is satisfactory, spray primer the whole model, using at least one coat of 'spray filler' to fill any imperfections, and also fill the 'grain' of the paper/card.
  • Sand everything smooth.
  • Repeat last two steps as many times as necessary, until a perfect smooth finish is achieved.
  • Spray the whole model with high gloss black paint, as a base coat for the chrome finish.
  • Spray the chrome coat and buff to a high shine once dry.
  • Clear coat the whole model.
  • Using a dark wash, enhance all the panel lines and raised/recessed greebled texture.
  • And a final clear coat.
To test my theory in this, I am going to make up various greebled parts and shapes for my airbrush mate to practice with..... ;)

Lighting

The wingtips of the model require 2 x sets of two, 5mm LED's. Each wingtip will consist of a fore and aft facing LED. One wingtip blue, the other red.

The most prominent lighting of the whole model, are the two spot/search lights on the front nose. A 5mm white, high intensity LED for each spot. (As you have already seen in my 'hint' photo earlier, my test build of these came out well. ;))
Also, there are two smaller white spots/landing lights in the belly of the craft. 2 x 3mm white LED's for those.

And as far as the model itself is concerned, that leaves the engines. One, or maybe two, blue 5mm LED's per engine.

There will be other lighting required for the display base too, but, at the moment, I am still working things out, in my 'mind's eye!'

And of course, all the necessary wiring, switches, power source, etc ......

Final display/diorama

I am not keen on the display base provided with the model. I want to display this model in a more dramatic fashion.

It involves a combination of:
  • lighting, in various guises,
  • a figurine, (as already mentioned earlier,)
  • and a means to support the whole model above the base, while running wiring to the model, from the display base circuitry.
This whole concept hangs on the plan I have for the support system.
My idea will become clearer to you, (and me!) as the thread progresses.;)

I am busy processing the first build pics for the thread at the moment and will be posting them soon

Laters! :wave:
 
Last edited:

DanBKing

Dan the Man
Ok, here I go again, asking assistance from you all!
This time, I would like somebody to confirm my calculations! (I have to admit that mathematics is not a strong point with me! :shamefullyembarrased:)

Anyway, after searching the net for information (and pictures) of the Hunter Killer, I have gleaned the knowledge that if the HK was 'real', the dimensions would be 6,25 m wide x 8,25 m long.

From the model instructions, Laul states that the model dimensions are 35,2 cm wide x 42,9 cm long.

Now, I used the scale calculator available from the net here: http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm and determined that the HK model is at approximatly 1/20th scale.

As I mentioned earlier, I downloaded a 1/6th scale figure to use for my diorama idea.
Using an average 'real world' measurement of 1,8m for a human figure, a 1/6 scale model should end up at about 30cm high.
Again, using the scale calculator, when I make the figure 1/20th scale, that gives me a figure model height of approx. 9cm, which seems about right.

My main question then is this: If I want to print the figure model at 1/20th scale to match the HK model, then what would the print scale reduction percentage be ???????

I THINK, it would be approximatly 70%.

Is this correct ? Or, am I well out of the ball park ??????

Any assistance would be appreciated! :biggrin:
 

zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
I have started building of my time machine, and will go back in time to f*ck up your efforts!! Oh, wait, ....................this is a model. OOps. Sorry. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top