Recent content by John Hubbard

SolderMaster Supply (I have no interest in this company) has the CHP-170 cutters on sale for only $2.75. See this URL if you are interested: http://www.soldermastersupply.com/chptoolschp170.html

Yes,Paint! I had never painted rails before and always thought they looked too big and shiny. I recently got Floquil paint pens with rust, rail brown, and tie brown colors. They make it really easy to paint the rails. Just do it!

Harpo, no advice from me on the turnout gremlins, I'm fighting one myself, just a note to say I'm glad to hear you're doing so well. John

Michael, I have found the Stanley Surform tool to be a fairly quick way of shaping foam terrain. Yes, you will need a shop vac fairly often, but no bad fumes are produced. I think I would stick with this method. John

Jetrock, Thanks for the info. You can see my micro plans on my web site at http://ejhubbard.com/the_next_layout1.htm There are four pages under that link. The first explains what I want to do. The second shows some ideas I received from other people - feel free to use any if they look good...

I'm working on a HOn30 micro logging layout (southeastern USA) and want to include a sawmill, but have limited space - that "micro" thing. I'm thinking that what I want to represent would be a small, portable sawmill setup, perhaps based around the little Woodland Scenics "Rural Sawmill" - see...

My experience with the Stanley Surform tool is that the particles just lie around in piles and can be easily vacuumed up. And, my hot wire cutter is battery powered, so no cord problem there.

Maybe that was why I had so many random uncouplings! I thought it was my poor track work...

I've had good luck shaping grades in blue foam using a Stanley Surform tool - sort of a grater with a handle - from Lowe's or Home Depot. It's pretty cheap to try and if you fail, it's only foam. I use a straight edge to spot check my work as I go and I take my time. Transitions don't seem to...

My first layout, which was 4x8 feet, used the "L-girder construction described by, I believe, Lynn Wescott in Model Railroader. I used 1/4 inch plywood to form the "cookie cutter" sub-roadbed. The risers were probably 12-18 inches apart, with cleats screwed to the sub-roadbed and riser for...

I've used Elmer's to glue foam together with good success, but in my latest effort, I've used hot glue and it has been excellent. My wife had the hot glue gun (and glue sticks), so I simply "borrowed" both from her. I have found that glued-up slabs of foam can be shaped very nicely with a...

And thanks to Herr Egger, who originated this card back in the 1960s.

Kevin, When the Baldwins were new, they were OK, but not great - they were only about $6 after all. Now, most of them have suffered cracked gears - the worm gears on the axles split as the plastic ages - and either have a hitch in their getalong or simply stall at the bad spot. NWSL makes a...

Does anyone have any advice on remotoring the old HOn30 AHM Plymouth and Baldwin locos from the 60s?