The UHU02 Colonial Viper appreciation thread

Revell-Fan

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@Dan: I wish you two all the best. Never give up hope, even in the darkest hour there is light. Stay together and enjoy the moments together.

@RB: Your build is coming along nicely! But be careful, young Vipers are very curious. Once they got their first legs they tend to leave their nest very soon. It was a wise decision not to attach the legs permanently! :mrgreen:
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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@RB: Your build is coming along nicely! But be careful, young Vipers are very curious. Once they got their first legs they tend to leave their nest very soon. It was a wise decision not to attach the legs permanently! :mrgreen:

Thank you for the kind words and encouragement:thumb: (as well as the warning! sign1 I am keeping a CLOSE EYE in this little bugger!:twisted:)
 

Rhaven Blaack

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Scorpion Shipyards progress report

Here are the parts for the Tail, the Ammo Rack for the Wing, and the louvres for the intakes for the lower engines.
IMAG2902.jpg

Here is the Core Tail assembly.
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Core Tail assembly is attached
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Outer Tail assembly .
IMAG2909.jpg

Outer Tail assembly attached (but not glued on, as it will be glued to the Top Engine Housing).
IMAG2910.jpg

IMAG2911.jpg
 

Rhaven Blaack

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These are the Ammo Racks that go in between the wing formers.
IMAG2917.jpg

The Ammo Racks are attached.
IMAG2918.jpg

IMAG2919.jpg

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silveroxide

Senior Member
silveroxides Viper

I will probably not catch up with you guys, but I am trudging along. So far so good and your builds are helping out tremendously. While i am fixated on the details, i have to watch out that i do not miss the simple parts. In this case, I forgot to box in the tip of the side where the viper has a coupling joint. I raised the coupler but forgot to end cover the tip. There are a few simple things but overall, the Viper is looking good. I will discard the missile bay later on and fill it with individual missiles using then discarded part as a reference. Keep up the good work guys and see you all soon with more photo updates.
 

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Rogerio Silva

Active Member
Wonderful works, guys!

All right, an explanation is in order, so here it goes: I started to cut the first piece of the Viper, and I just found some different smudges that weren't there. After the usual "What is going on here?" scream, I realized that the ink was not fixed, although it was dry.
So, before I did anything even more stupid, I discarded the first page (already cut and smudged), printed a new one, and got my acrylic spray. It makes a protective layer over the ink (both UV and water proof, says the label), so I sprayed two layers over the sheets, and I'l wait till tomorrow to start over.
Man, is this difficult to start or what? See ya.
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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@Silveroxide: The amount od detail that you are putting into this project (as with all of your past projects) is simply stunning!!! I have always liked how you use mixed materials for your details. It really brings the model to life!!!
YOUR BUILD IS THE ONE TO WATCH!!!

@Rogério: Another thing that you can do is use a hair dryer to dry and set the ink right after they have been printed. I will do such if I am using light weight paper and I see that the ink has not fully dry or set yet.
I am looking forward to seeing your build!!!
 

Rogerio Silva

Active Member
Hmmm...

YOUR BUILD IS THE ONE TO WATCH!!!
Totally agreed! It's like Silveroxide is teaching us all his tricks, with good, thorough explanations. :thumb: :cool: :thumb: :cool:

@Rogério: Another thing that you can do is use a hair dryer to dry and set the ink right after they have been printed. I will do such if I am using light weight paper and I see that the ink has not fully dry or set yet.
I am looking forward to seeing your build!!!

I don't know, I did let the ink dry for two days. I printed the sheets on Friday night, and only started working on them on Sunday night. Wouldn't it be long enough? :confused:
I thought it could be because of the paper, but I printed the first page on 230gsm (rather thick, no gloss), and the other ones on 170 gsm (normal thickness, somewhat glossy). 48 hours should be more than enough, but maybe it's because of the ink itself.
I've never had this problem before, but then again, I've always used a laser printer service. Now that I use my own inkjet, I'll try the hairdryer technique you've mentioned. I know it'll be a lot cheaper then using the acrylic spray! :mrgreen:
All the best,

Rogério
 

dnalor

Well-Known Member
i think that it's the glossy part ...inkt doesn't stick to it....
but when you spray paint it...don't you destroy the inkt?..
i tried it once with a sealer...and as result all thiny drops on it without the inkt..
 

silveroxide

Senior Member
silveroxides Viper

Thanks for your comments guys, but it is your works that is also helping me in the build. Here is a photo of the side panel and you can see the curved edge.
 

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Rogerio Silva

Active Member
Hmmm...

i think that it's the glossy part ...inkt doesn't stick to it....
but when you spray paint it...don't you destroy the inkt?..
i tried it once with a sealer...and as result all thiny drops on it without the inkt..

dnalor

Actually, I noticed the problem in the 230gsm paper, which is NOT glossy. Being afraid of having the same on the glossy paper (170gsm, glossy), I took action on all of them, after re-printing the 230gsm (couché, not glossy, or mat).
About damaging the ink, no, nothing happened. It actually gave the ink a glossy aspect, because my acrylic spray of choice is brilliant, and also gave the sheet a texturized rugged aspect (that does not influence the quality of the printing).
Anyway, now I think I can work safely, and I'll start tonight, at last! :twisted:
 

silveroxide

Senior Member
I gave built a few models on glossy paper and have used laser printers as well. I ran into the smudge problems and flaking of the paint on the laser print. I usually spray my models once they are done or almost done, to avoid any smudges from the paint. But I also have had problems with the ink running so I spray lightly between coats. Too thick and the ink will bleed. (Epson holds better than the other inks.)

Standing by for your Viper debut Rogerio.
 

Rhaven Blaack

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"skin"

I have started on the "SKIN" now.
Here are the parts sheets for the cockpit section.
IMAG2922.jpg

The cockpit section is assembled.
IMAG2923.jpg

IMAG2924.jpg

IMAG2926.jpg

IMAG2927.jpg

The cockpit section is now in place.
(*NOTE* For those of you who are using thicker cardstock at the same scale that I am building, the fit is quite tight (if the paper is too thick, it may not fit at all). So be careful of such.)
IMAG2928.jpg

IMAG2929.jpg

IMAG2930.jpg

IMAG2931.jpg

IMAG2932.jpg

We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.
Please stay tuned to your local CBSC for further UPDATES as they are made available.
Thank you.
 

Revell-Fan

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Now it's becoming interesting :mrgreen: !

I'm so looking forward to this step to see IF the skin fits on my enlarged version. I can hardly hold me back from assembling the outer skin at this stage of my build and looking... :rolleyes:
 

silveroxide

Senior Member
silveroxides Viper

Still working with the extra details and adding some parts not in the parts list. The landing gear box is attached but that will be for another posting. I found out that it is a tight fit into that slot. I remedied that, by cutting it in half and inserting then individually. it made for a better fit and I did not have to force it in to place. Those photos will come soon. i thought that I should mention it for the benefit of those who have not gotten that far yet. Keep up the good work guys and waiting for Rogerio to step in any moment now. Enjoy and see you all next posting.:thumb:
 

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silveroxide

Senior Member
silveroxides Viper

Thanks for looking in guys. I still have to catch up but I have a few build techniques to impart.

Here is the making of the landing skid support system. It was cut in half and a section was removed to compensate for the center keel thickness. It measures out to the edge of the wing spar as shown on the printed part. The landing mechanism is rather sturdy and will work great with the landing skid strut.
 

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Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
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The scale that you chose is PERFECT for the work that you are doing on this model. It is inspiring on many different levels (especially) to those who really want to improve their skills and try new techniques.
I can say that I (for one) am always learning something new from watching your build threads.

As for "CATCHING UP", there is now need for anyone to do any kind of catch-up. TAKE YOUR TIME AND ENJOY!!!

KEEP UP THE FANTASTIC WORK!!!
 
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