My Y-Wing Build

leofirebrand

New Member
Got a good amount done this weekend. I finished the wings and finished most of the engines. I tried to make the domes on the engines completly from paper but just did not like how they looked so I finally decided to use some sculpty so that I could sand it smooth. I am not happy with the little greeble that extends to the domes. the wires bend wierd and make the engines look like they slope. Plus they are far from close to accurate. I am planning on rebuilding those tonight. Hopfefully in the next day or so I will be able to show the completed build and then I can move on to paint.
 

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Z

Zathros

This is really awesome. I really like the balance you have struck. Mostly paper, and some other pieces. I like this better than 99.9% plastic and .1% paper for the box it would ship in alternative! :)
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
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I am ABSOLUTELY ASTONISHED by the work and detail that you are putting into this model.
I like the other elements that you are bringing into the model as well.
 

leofirebrand

New Member
Thanks, I always feel like I am cheating when I dont use paper so it is good to know I have not commited Card Model sacrilege. When I first started I used 100% paper but now I make a few concessions. Ultimately the goal is to still use inexpensive and easy to work with materials. I have tried prototyping curved structures made from paper that don't show seam but have not had much luck. My best success is with paper mache sprayed with auto Paint/Filler and sanded. The problem is the paper is still too flexible and the filler tends to crack. Would love to know if other people have figured out good ways to handle this.

Finished the engines last night so here is the completed build. It was quite rewarding to finally see it assembled. Now on to paint.
 

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Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
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The more I see the better it looks. You are setting a very high bar for all other models like this to compare to.
 

ThunderChild

Active Member
It blows my mind! I don't envy you the upcoming pant job! This one is definitely more accurate and detailed that the plastic kit!
 
Z

Zathros

I'm not a paper purist. I can understand why some would like to try and do that, but in of itself, it is just a technique. I like doing the bulk in paper because of the ease of fabrication and low materials cost, but there is nothing worse than seeing a model getting all warped and out of shape, when a couple of pieces of wood, or something else, would have saved it. IMHO. :)
 

leofirebrand

New Member
I agree Zathros, I have come to not be such a purist. Ultimately I chose paper as a medium because it's inexpensive and easy to work with, relatively speaking. Wire, and putty definately hold to the same qualifications and few fault you for adding other materials.

Have some updates. Got the base coat laid down and started detailing on the cockpit and R5 Unit.
 

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dnalor

Well-Known Member
Wauw the ship comes to life with that paint..

But how do you paint it?...is that spray paint ?
And doesn''t the paper get soaked?

Now let's get it dirty :)
 

leofirebrand

New Member
Thanks! I was starting to get concerned with how it was going to look once the paint was on, but was happy that it turned out how I intended.

I typically use acrylic model paint intended for pewter minatures. I have personally used Reaper, Citadel, and P3 paints. The paint is high in pigment but still very liquid for an acrylic, which is good. I dont prefer most art store acrylics as they are too thick or do not have enough pigment. I also just use brushes. No sprays except for the lacquer once everything is done. I recomend using synthetic burshes over horse or other natural brushes.

The paper is porus so it actually absorbs the paint which hides the brush stroke pretty well. you can do this on printed models as well just make sure if it's a laser that it does not have a binder sprayed on top as that is designed to prevent some absorbtion. You do have to be a little careful when it comes to the paper getting too wet and bending. With this model there is so much deail the model is like a rock and unlickely to flex at all but sometimes I either use foamcore on the inside of my models to keep them rigid or I just have to be very slow and wait a few mins between coats to let the paper dry.

Once the top coat is down and dry it paints just like any store bought kit.

Wauw the ship comes to life with that paint..

But how do you paint it?...is that spray paint ?
And doesn''t the paper get soaked?

Now let's get it dirty :)
 

micahrogers

Moderator "Where am I, and how did I get here?"
Staff member
Moderator
If I didn't know better I would think this was a studio miniature being built
 
Z

Zathros

If really does have that studio miniature look, and I bet it would film like that. :)
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
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I have to agree with both Zathros and micahrogers, it is studio quality. I think that the guys over at ILM would be jealous of this model, if ever they saw it.

Keep up the GREAT work.
 

leofirebrand

New Member
I'm really glad I found this forum, The encourgament is defeniately keeping me going strong on the project. Plus it's nice to finally know other card modelers I can learn from instead of always having to figure it out myself.

Eventually I would like to build Vaders Tie and lukes Red 5. I then could build a diaroma display of the trench run with all three models on display.

Small update today. I finished the first round of weathering and now I can go back to detailing. Basically I washed the model with watered down black paint. This leaves the model really dark so I dry brushed the model with the base coat to reclaim some of the orignial color. Last I dry brushed on a bone color to bring the fuselage color closer to the head color. Some progress shots are posted below. I also started painting the tubes but the color I have was too brown so I need to pick up something a little more redish.
 

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dnalor

Well-Known Member
:) he comes to life :)
Do you paint the ship by imagination..
or do you use pictures of the real props?

And a trench run would look great, but would get i think very big..
When you want this one incl 2 other in the same scale...with a little space between them that Trench will become large.

But again..Large is great :)
 

ARMORMAN

FOUNDATION CORNERSTONE
It's looking great!

I would like to make a suggestion, Take a small brush and outline the yellow stripe on the nose. Just a thought.
 

leofirebrand

New Member
:) he comes to life :)
Do you paint the ship by imagination..
or do you use pictures of the real props?

And a trench run would look great, but would get i think very big..
When you want this one incl 2 other in the same scale...with a little space between them that Trench will become large.

But again..Large is great :)

If your warning about something being large I might have to reconsider :) . Your right though, even with how small the scale is, it would still probably be something along the lines a museum exhibit.

As far as the paint, I do use reference photos. The problem though with old school effects and Star wars in particular is the inconsistent coloring. You have several effects models for each ship, the full size model, the CG model from the new ones, plus there are differences between movies. I am taking aspects from each that I like for mine as well as a few professional builds I found that are really nice. hopefully the end result will be convincing.

It's looking great!

I would like to make a suggestion, Take a small brush and outline the yellow stripe on the nose. Just a thought.

I was hoping no one would catch that. :rolleyes: yeah i need to clean up the lines after weathering the gray areas. I also need to do a wash on the yellow part to make the recesses darker and eventuall I need to add carbon scoring from re-entry and laser burns. I always save the yellow for last because in my experience yellow is somewhat translucent and needs several coats.
 
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