Marauder destroyer

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
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Greetings to all and to all, hello,

I know that it has been awhile sense my last model posting, but I have a evaluation build thread for you now.

A few months ago, I attempted to build the Marauder Destroyer from 40k Warhammer. I ran into quite a few problems. Everything ranging from the instructions are not that good, to parts either not fitting properly, or parts missing altogether.
Upon the request of Armorman, I am now doing this build/evaluation thread on this model, to help those who want to build it.

WORD OF WARNING! IF YOU BUILD THIS MODEL, DO NOT RUSH THROUGH IT! PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE INSTRUCTIONS AND LOOK AHEAD TO SEE HOW THE PARTS FIT TOGETHER!

After looking my first run through with this model, I did notice that some of the parts either were missing some of the glue tabs, or just did not have any glue tabs at all. (I do know that for some of you out there, that is not a problem. For me though, I do like glue tabs.)

I have started off with the front and rear cannon sections. These first set of photos are of the rear cannon system. This section is very straight forward so far.
As you can see here,.
There are a small set of instructions for the twin cannon system on the first sheet of parts for this section.



I assembled the individual parts first. After that, I put the components together

Here I added a small part to help with holding the barrels together.



As you see here, all of the barrels are fitted together


Barrels mounted on base.











Be sure that you do not attach parts component 29 to the rest of the twin cannon system until after you have assembled parts component 2 and have slid the twin cannon system in place. (I will show this in my next posting.)

ENJOY!!!
 
Z

Zathros

I was wondering where your chipper face had been! Glad, very glad, to have you back!.:thumb:
 

Sanginus

Member
great model selection, interesting, I'll regularly, daily here.

Thank you for your effort and for helpful notes :thumb:
 

Kjev

Active Member
I've downloaded a couple different versions of these. I'm definitely going to follow this to watch and learn.
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Update

Thank you for the compliment Armorman.

Here is an update of my progress. I have added comments to some of the photos to describe the changes or fixes that I had to make.
Other then that, everything is very straight forward so far.



ENJOY!!!
 
Thank you for the compliment Armorman.

Here is an update of my progress. I have added comments to some of the photos to describe the changes or fixes that I had to make.
Other then that, everything is very straight forward so far.

Cannot remember the site, bt a few months ago, I hit the jackpot of Warhammer 40K papercrafts. Got about 200 from the site, and I only maybe downloaded half of them. NOW you got me to wanting to find the site again, just to share :)
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
I have finished the rear cannon section.
Here are the photos for your viewing pleasure.



ENJOY!!!

I will start on the front cannon section now.

More photos to come.
 

Sanginus

Member
Ever looks good, what material you used due to the wings and the tail?
See in the picture, kinda like foam with a layer of cardboard?
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Thank you everyone for the kind words and encouragement.

Sanginus: I am just using straight 180 gr. cardstock, nothing else.

I am building this model (for the most part) stock. Meaning that, I am not going to make any radical changes (except for what is needed to make the model work) or add any extra greebles.
Like I had said in my posting, this model has quite a few problems. This build thread is more for pointing out those problems and offering my solution for those problems as well as give a guide to those who are interested in building this plane.
With that being said, later on if I decide to make another one, I might add more greebles or add foam inside for support (but that will be much later on though).
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Front cannon system

Hello Every one, I am now starting on the front cannon system.

So far, everything is fairly straight forward. I have added some glue tabs to some of the parts for better mounting(please look at the photos for the parts that I added the glue tabs to).

Other then the lack of glue tabs, I have not ran into any problems yet.

Here are the photos for your viewing pleasure.



ENJOY!!!
 
Z

Zathros

That looks great. I have a question. Just semantics. The Glue Tabs you add fall behind the visible part so that there is no build up, right? I always called those "glue strips", to me, glue tabs were what was printed on the model, bent back, throwing everything off, and were a pain in the posterior. I would cut them off then put a new strip arranged how I felt was necessary, that looks like what you have done here. I just wondered, Tomato, Tomatoe. I find this makes the model almost have a perimeter type frame to it. :)
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
That looks great. I have a question. Just semantics. The Glue Tabs you add fall behind the visible part so that there is no build up, right? I always called those "glue strips", to me, glue tabs were what was printed on the model, bent back, throwing everything off, and were a pain in the posterior. I would cut them off then put a new strip arranged how I felt was necessary, that looks like what you have done here. I just wondered, Tomato, Tomatoe. I find this makes the model almost have a perimeter type frame to it. :)

That is a very good question. It is not a matter of semantics. There is in fact a difference between the two techniques. I have used both techniques before (for me, it just depends on what I am building at the time).
With this model, I have been hand drawing the glue tabs on the parts before cutting them out. I have made curtain that all glue tabs are hidden and the joined parts are as tight and flush and I can possibly make them.

I have found that there is an art to using both.

  • With "glue strips", yes you can place them as you feel that you need then, and you get a very tight fit. This technique is perfect for making long tubes (for example plane fuselages), and where build up would be a problem.
  • With "glue tabs", you have to score and bend them to make them work. sometimes you do not get a good tight fit. There is a way around that though. After founding the tab over, take a pair of normal tweezers and crimp the fold, you will have a very tight fit. (Do not use this technique for making tubes or other such parts where build up would be a problem).
Thank you for bringing this point to light. I am curtain there are quite a few new modelers that are viewing this (and other threads) scratching their heads wondering "What the frak is the difference, it is all the same to me?"
 
Z

Zathros

I find if you don't bend past the point you need, you retain a better matrix in the paper and the tensile strength of the paper combined with the rigidity of the glue makes stronger edges.. These kinds of tips and techniques are always worth discussing. I either reaffirm, or learn, or relearn what I forgot. I'm ramblin'. :)
 

Rhaven Blaack

!!!THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN!!!
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Good point, I never get tired of talking about tips and techniques. It is a GREAT way to learn new things and redicover things that you may have forgotten,
An old mentor once told me: "The day I stop learning is the day that I die."
As for "ramblin", you can do all that you want, it will not bother me at all.
 
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