AC Gilbert 0-6-0s repairing a few.

toptrain1

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Jan 2, 2007
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* The two Gilbert 0-6-0s I got at the Allentown train show last weekend are shapeing up. 31031 the B&O B6 had a burned out motor. I had a original gilbert motor with a good armiture but a broken brush holder. The brush holder from the burned out motor fit taking care of this problum. Next crossion has set in atop the firebox front by the two presure release valves. I started lightly sanding this area but need a finer paper to complete this.
* The front set of drivers had it's tire rim improperly repaired in the past and it wasn't on right. The flange guage is to wide. Had to disasemble the drive section. The motor was off already. The main rod valve gear on each side removes as two units. Removal of one screw and three crakpin, on each side allow the two units to be taken off. Some light brushing with a brass wire brush and oiling makes these look good again. One screw removes the cylinders. A spacer washer is atop the side rods and is removed first. Next the side rods come off. The driver axles are steel and the driver wheel centers are plastic. Slight proding separates axel from wheel. A lot of crazey glue had to be removed from the wheels center outside surface and tire rims inside surface. Once cleaned up the wheel and rim went tightly together. This seams to take care of the loose rim problum. Aligning and pressing together the wheel and axel, replaceing main rods, valve gear, motor and cylinders puts the drive section back together. Flange guage was checked on the three axels and was OK. I rewired the boiler section only to find out that the new wires insulation was to thick and at at smoke unit front blocked the boiler to frame replacement. Now I have to find a new type of wire.
* Now the tender! All electrical pickup for this model is done on the tender. This is just like on the Gilbert J3 Hudson. One truck picks the left rail and the other the right. The wireing solders directly to the screw and nut inside the tender body. The tender trucks can not be removed without unsoldering this connection. Four screws hold the tender body to it's frame. Now checking for power to the motor shows a problum here. No power is geting to the motor. This is where I'm at now. I have to remove the tender trucks and clean up all connections from the wheels to the wireing to the motor.
I have gotten new boiler fronts for both locos. I still need new front pilots or I'll have to make them. It isn't hard to do . It just takes time and Material. I want to get the original parts. Their is a site for American Flyier parts but I have to locate it again. I could use some help here.
 

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toptrain1

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Jan 2, 2007
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The two I picked up were really part locos. I'm just determined to repair them and get them working again. The B&O is a oddball. It is the second that I have aquired. Two different numbers. 31031, 31019. The other 0-6-0 I reciently got is 31004. I'de like to get a Erie 0-6-0. It is the only one without a smoke unit. That site doesn't have 0-6-0 pilots. I may have to make them.
Frank
 

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toptrain1

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*** I finished my repairs on 31031 drive. It is a running loco now. I still have to get wire for the smoke unit. The original wire was a 18 or 20 gague stranded wire. The strands were not twisted together as is the norm. They are losely placed into a cloth woven insulation. The wire is not just flexable but can be compressed flat. That is why the two original wires fit and the new plastic insulated ones don't. The old wire went right in the garbich and was thrown out. It's gone!
frank
 

toptrain1

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Jan 2, 2007
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* Started on 31004 repairs today. Here we go. Big Problum! Center axel is siezed in casting. It will not turn. Removed body, then valve gear, mainrods, and side rods frrom the right side. I layed it on its side, left side up, supportind the frame in two places . I'm looking at the valve gear. The axel shaft is around 1/8". I picked out a punch slightly smaller and tapped and tapped untill the axle came free. Cleaned and oiled the surface of the axel. Slid the axel back in it's hole. It went in very easily,and spun in place. I requarted the axel in place and pressed it back into it's wheel. Put back the side rod, Main rod, and valve gear. Removed the motor. Drive spins very nicely.
* Now this motor is a original gilbert with the brass end plate and skewed wound motor armiture. Back in the 40's and before that they knew it worked better this way. It seams that most modelers think this is a new inovation. It was long known that tilting the windings on the armiture alowed for smother starts at a lower voltage and starting current is lower also. Trains were looked on as toys. I guess they got no respect. The brush holder and brushes are missing. I tested the armiture and the motor turns. I have a good motor armiture. I need a insulated brush holder and brushes again. I will have to get back to this!
* Now the main things left are the missing smoke box front which I was able to pick up, and the front pilot. Now looking thro my parts I found a steped pilot for a chatnooga choo choo. It fits! Horay! I'll use it till a original replacement is found. I'll return to this when I get or make a brush holder. I think I have brushes. See you later
Frank
 

toptrain1

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* Back to 31031 the B&O. I am really looking hard at this. I removed the wheel and axel and cleaned them again. Ah the light comes on. The wippers are missing. Bronzed brass wippers take power from the metal axel and bring it to the center post, the screw holding the truck on. I wondered why their was a wide slot atop the screw and not a screw driver slot. Checking another Gilbert 0-6-0, their they are,wippers! Ok pulled out my metal box found a small thin sheet of bronzed brass. It cuts with a good pair of sissors. I made two wipers and installed them. I put power to the motor and I have a running drive.
* The model has a front pilot that needs replacement but it is mostly their. I'll use it till I get another.
* Remaining problems on this loco are sanding and touching up the firebox top. Rewireing the smoke unit. Getting a new pilot. Maybe I can find another tyco pilot and use it till a replacement is found.
* Putting it all together I have a running locomotive that doesn't smoke with a damaged front pilot.
* I will get back to you latter.
**** Frank
 

toptrain1

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Jan 2, 2007
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How come AC Gilbert used five numbers on thier locos, instead of four as on the prototypes?
Are the AC Gilberts serialized?


The first ones were only three. I have a #155 and 433 0-6-0. I am certian I have a 4 hundred something Hudson also. I never found a serial number. I have found dates inside some.
frank
 

toptrain1

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Jan 2, 2007
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What will I do??????

Yep! The reality of not aquiring the two 0-6-0 pilots is slowly sinking in. I am forming options to get me past my current condition. All options are temporary till proper replacements are aquired.
***Option #1 Use the damaged pilot on 31031, and use my Chatanuga Cho Cho (0-8-0) pilot that fits and looks OK on 31004.
***Option #2 Do nothing and pretend that everything is OK.
***Option #3 On 31004 use my Varney old Lady pilot that fits good and make my B6 (0-6-0) into a F3 (2-6-0). Then keep 31031 as in option #1.
***Option #4 Do nothing again and see what happens.
***Option #5 I don't think I have a option #5 ------- yet.
HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM. What will I do?
frank
 

toptrain1

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Jan 2, 2007
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Done for now

31004 and 31031 are working locomotives now. they run fine. Now just looking for parts.
frank
 

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steamhead

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WoW...That's a labor of love.....

I have an old 0-8-0, mid- 50's vintage still in good running condition, although it starts slowing down after a little while of chuffin' along. What might be the cause of this..? I'd like to get it running "as good as new" again....
 

toptrain1

Well-Known Member
Jan 2, 2007
940
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New Jersey
The 0-8-0 was S gague and AC. My 0-6-0's are HO gague and DC. You need to ask that question in a American Flyier forum.
frank