Mircoscale's Micro-Sol and Micro-Set

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Hi guys, Which one is the one that helps decals conform to irregular (non-flat surfaces) like the ribbs in trailers? Is it Micro-Sol or Micro-Set?

And can they be still applied after decaling has already been done or does it have to be applied when you are setting the decals?
 

Squidbait

Recovering ALCO-holic
Micro-Sol is the more aggressive of the two, it will soften the decal, make it bubble and pucker and settle down over all the bumps and protrusions on the model.

Micro-set is much milder, and they suggest you apply it to the model before applying the decal. It'll help the decal slide on and make good contact with the model surface, but doesn't make it snuggle in as much as Micro-Sol.

Micro-Set isn't much use (I've found) after the decal is on, but Micro-Sol can be applied after the fact, although it works better on a "fresh" decal. It's also good for removing old decals and lettering from painted cars/locos. Just put a drop or two on the area to clean, and rub with a Q-tip or pencil eraser.
 

eightyeightfan1

Now I'm AMP'd
I use Micro-Sol exclusively!

I usually apply it after the decal has set for awhile.
This picture shows my F59PHI I'm working on, with the decal set I'm using in the back.
You can see where the Micro-Sol, snuggled down the stripe into the corrugations.
 

Attachments

  • decal1.jpg
    decal1.jpg
    197.1 KB · Views: 13

eightyeightfan1

Now I'm AMP'd
After checking out the pics I took for this thread, I noticed that I still have some air bubbles.
Poking these with an X-Acto blade and reappling Micro-Sol will take care of these.
I even apply Micro-Sol to decals that are on a flat surface. This helps keep the decal in palce.
 

Attachments

  • decal2.jpg
    decal2.jpg
    160.9 KB · Views: 13

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Thanks guys for the pics, this is exactly what i needed to know!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Thanks again, i think imma pick up quite a few bottles of the stuff :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
Josh, one bottle will go pretty far. ;) :-D I also like to use Walthers Solvaset, which is even stronger - great for decals that are overly thick or atop very irregular surfaces. It also works well on dry transfers in areas that are difficult to burnish.

Wayne
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Just to throw MY 2 cents in...:119: , i ONLY use Solvaset:winki: . As Wayne mentioned, its probably the strongest solution of them all, so you want to be careful using it, but i next to NEVER have problems with air bubbles or getting decals to conform to odd surfaces:thumb: .
 

brakie

Active Member
I toss my hat into the Walthers Solvaset ring.

However,I perfer Champ Decal's Decal Set but,its hard to find.
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
Also, Solvaset can be diluted with distilled water - some years back they made a batch that was considerably over-strength: it pretty well "ate" all but the hardiest of decals. :eek:;):-D

Wayne
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Solvaset huh? I need place an order with Walthers anyways soon for some more drill bits. Ill get Solvaset and Micro-Sol and try them both out and see which one i like more :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Thanks again guys :mrgreen:
 

e-paw

Member
solvaset has always bin my favorite:thumb:. I usually do 5 or 6 thin coats over the course of a few days ,poking all the air bubbles with a sharp pin to get em down real close.:mrgreen:
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
solvaset has always bin my favorite:thumb:. I usually do 5 or 6 thin coats over the course of a few days ,poking all the air bubbles with a sharp pin to get em down real close.:mrgreen:

Josh, there are several ways to use Solaset, its pretty strong, and we each use it how we have found works best for us:winki: .

I have had good luck doing this;

With water, get the decal set EXACTLY the way you want it, then wait for the water to completely evaporate away. about 20-30mins AFTER the water has COMPLETELY EVAPORATED AWAY, then put a thin layer of Solvaset over the decal. NEVER, EVER, move or touch the decal once Solvaset hits it, if you do there is a 99.9% chance the decal will be destroyed:eeki: . let the Solvaset COMPLETELY EVAPORATE AWAY, then i wait about 30-40mins longer, and then i put one more thin coat of Solvaset over the whole decal. thats it for me, two coats usually gets the decal looking the way i want it to:winki: .
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Josh, there are several ways to use Solaset, its pretty strong, and we each use it how we have found works best for us:winki: .

I have had good luck doing this;

With water, get the decal set EXACTLY the way you want it, then wait for the water to completely evaporate away. about 20-30mins AFTER the water has COMPLETELY EVAPORATED AWAY, then put a thin layer of Solvaset over the decal. NEVER, EVER, move or touch the decal once Solvaset hits it, if you do there is a 99.9% chance the decal will be destroyed:eeki: . let the Solvaset COMPLETELY EVAPORATE AWAY, then i wait about 30-40mins longer, and then i put one more thin coat of Solvaset over the whole decal. thats it for me, two coats usually gets the decal looking the way i want it to:winki: .


Thanks E-paw and Deano :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Do you need to spray Dull-coat over the decals after the coats of Solvaset?

Also, do you have to use Dullcoat? Can you use a clear coat in a large spray can? I saw some at Walmart the other day when i was buying some cheap spray paint ($1.12 a can :mrgreen: :thumb:) and they had a clear coat one as well that I was going to buy but i wasnt sure if i could use it in place of Dullcoat? Ive noticed that even with dullcoat, there is still some shine after you have finished spraying the model to seal the decals in place..... I would be weathering the models anyways eventually so shinny coat doesnt really matter to much as long as it will be weathered right? Would this stuff work okay if weathering will be done after?
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
The decals should be completely dry before applying Dullcote. I have also used Floquil Flat Finish, and there are several other brands available that are suitable for use on models. It is important that both the lettering and the paint be completely dry (hardened) before clear-coating, as some brands can partially dissolve or soften uncured paint.
While you should be able to use the clear coat which you mentioned, it's best to test it first to ensure that there's no reaction with the paint on the model. The other problem with sprays of this type is that often the spray is too heavy (the droplets are too large), resulting in an excessively thick finish which can detract from an otherwise good paint job.
If you're still planning on getting an airbrush, Dullcote is available in bottles, like most other paints. It can be thinned with lacquer thinner, and the airbrush will give you a much nicer finish than any spray can. The bottle of Dullcote will also go much further than the spray can version.

Wayne
 

Squidbait

Recovering ALCO-holic
:agree1:with what everyone has said about Solvaset.

What no one has mentioned yet (at least I don't think so) is that your decals will settle better (in my experience) if you give your model a shot of gloss coat first. The smoother the surface you have, the better the decal will settle and you won't have tons of "microbubbles" under it, which you can get with a rough or matte surface.

Once everything is down and settled where you like it, then give it a shot of matte finish.
 
After sliding the decal on a very wet (water only) surface and aligning it, I use a clean, soft cloth on my index finger to roll the excess water out from under the decal as much as possible. I then apply either Champ "Decal-set" or Walthers "Solvaset" immediately. After that dries, I apply a second coat. After that dries, I shoot it with a clear coat. Dull or Semi-gloss depends on the finish of the model. I've been using this method for about 35 years with no problems and I've only started with a gloss finish maybe 3 times. You should experiment on a non-important part and see what works best for you. Happy railroading.:thumb:

Dick
Texas Chief
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
The decals should be completely dry before applying Dullcote. I have also used Floquil Flat Finish, and there are several other brands available that are suitable for use on models. It is important that both the lettering and the paint be completely dry (hardened) before clear-coating, as some brands can partially dissolve or soften uncured paint.
While you should be able to use the clear coat which you mentioned, it's best to test it first to ensure that there's no reaction with the paint on the model. The other problem with sprays of this type is that often the spray is too heavy (the droplets are too large), resulting in an excessively thick finish which can detract from an otherwise good paint job.
If you're still planning on getting an airbrush, Dullcote is available in bottles, like most other paints. It can be thinned with lacquer thinner, and the airbrush will give you a much nicer finish than any spray can. The bottle of Dullcote will also go much further than the spray can version.

Wayne

Thanks for the info Wayne, I am still planning on getting that airbrush and compressor so i think that i will get the Dullcoat in the bottle for use in the airbrush :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
:agree1:with what everyone has said about Solvaset.

What no one has mentioned yet (at least I don't think so) is that your decals will settle better (in my experience) if you give your model a shot of gloss coat first. The smoother the surface you have, the better the decal will settle and you won't have tons of "microbubbles" under it, which you can get with a rough or matte surface.

Once everything is down and settled where you like it, then give it a shot of matte finish.

Thanks Squidbait :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Ill have to give this a shot too :thumb: :thumb:
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
After sliding the decal on a very wet (water only) surface and aligning it, I use a clean, soft cloth on my index finger to roll the excess water out from under the decal as much as possible. I then apply either Champ "Decal-set" or Walthers "Solvaset" immediately. After that dries, I apply a second coat. After that dries, I shoot it with a clear coat. Dull or Semi-gloss depends on the finish of the model. I've been using this method for about 35 years with no problems and I've only started with a gloss finish maybe 3 times. You should experiment on a non-important part and see what works best for you. Happy railroading.:thumb:

Dick
Texas Chief

Thanks Dick,

Which is better to do though? Wait for the water from the application of the decal to completely dry before Solvaset or apply Solvaset right after its on the model and in position and most of the water is blotted away?
 
Top