CSS Hunley by Renova

Hex Head Nuts & Bolts

The Renova kit supplies some hex bolts but gluing them to card then cutting them out individually seemed a time consuming chore. So, I made my own. In the following photo you can see the brass syringe I made from telescoping hexagonal tubing available in five consecutive sizes from Small Parts Inc. Check them out on the web.

I soldered sections together and extruded Celluclay in long sections. Once dry, I gave a section a smoothing swipe with a jeweler’s file, then sealed it with CA.

Of course, I have this syringe for other applications and enough brass tube to make any of five diameters. Pretty cool, huh?
 

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Hex Head Bolt Syringe

For those of you who might want one, I made a quick plan in Paint showing the pertinent details. As for the size of individual components, that's up to you.
 

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bclemens

Member
This is coming out wonderfully! I love the creative display plate. And thanks for the bolt creation idea.
Cheers!
Bruce
 
Torpedo and Spar

No one knows what design was used for the torpedo but there are a number of educated guesses and representations based on surviving records related to designs of that era. In addition there was only one iron spar recovered, the one used to carry and impale the torpedo. However, speculation is that there must have been some sort of stabilization rig to keep the torpedo from skewing off to the side. It’s logical to assume that whatever rig was used to stabilize the torpedo as the Hunley coursed along its path, it was made from wood. I did the same.

These two shots show my unfinished versions of the torpedo and stabilizing spar. The torpedo and its spar section is made from paper, card, brass, and aluminum. The barb is paper glued to brass and painted.

The spar is wood with a paper pulley and cardboard sheaves. The pulley actually pivots on a pin.
 

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Thank you for the kind comment, bclemens. I am glad someone is getting ideas from my build.

As of today, I have everything base painted. I really did not want to paint the model, the reason I got into paper modeling in the first place, but the imprinted rivet detail really bummed me out. So, I am going to try Milleniumfalseshood's idea of highlighting the rivets with a different overspray. I also have several versions of iron that I can spray on. Tomorrow, I'll make a mask and start the laborious process of replicating the rivets.

But, I want to compete this model at a couple of contests, so I have to give it good game.
 

cdcoyle

Member
Excellent work, CT! Your model is an object lesson in both the problems inherent in any model and the problem-solving skills needed to overcome them and make a top-notch model. A challenge, to be sure, and yet one of the appealing aspects of the hobby, I find.

Regards,
 
Hunley Completed

Though I have not yet mounted it for the beauty shots, here are some views of the completed Hunley. Thanks to those with suggestions, which I used.

You may note that the rivet detail stands out; it is much more subtle in person. The lights pop the detail out.

I moved away from plastic modeling because I was tired of painting. So, what did I do? I painted this model! But, it was a fun paint and restored some confidence and patience I had lost.

Hope you like it. I'll post the beauty shots ASAP.
 

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M

modelperry

Real Nice!!! One question though: Are you planning on taking this to the IPMS Nationals in Virginia Beach? I won't be able to make it, but I know plenty of people that will and I would like them to see how good it can get with paper!

They like what I'm building but still seem hesitant to try themselves.

Greg
 
Real Nice!!! One question though: Are you planning on taking this to the IPMS Nationals in Virginia Beach? I won't be able to make it, but I know plenty of people that will and I would like them to see how good it can get with paper!

They like what I'm building but still seem hesitant to try themselves.

Greg[/QUOTE

I would love to return to the IPMS/Nats. I used to be President. But, they keep on holding them in August when I am back in school. I don't want to have to rush for one day of the show; it's just no fun!

Thanks for the compliment, though. I am going to show it at a local contest in Huntsville, Al. This coming Oct.
 

outersketcher

Illustrator, Tinker
This thread is a treasure trove of tips and techniques. Thank you for sharing your building methods. And I dig the mounting technique too.
 
This thread is a treasure trove of tips and techniques. Thank you for sharing your building methods. And I dig the mounting technique too.

Thanks much! I have been to your website before and downloaded Haunted Hallways, though I have yet to build it. Very clever idea. I love optical illusions.
 
M

Mark_1984

That is a brilliant finish - the rust and weathering is quite superb ! (Just wish I could get that level of realism !!)

I've really enjoyed reading this thread - thanks :)
 
J

Jim Nunn

Superb model, the weathering really sets off the model and resin could not be any better.

Jim Nunn
 
Thank you for the compliments! It's like being at a club where everyone gets to oooh and aaah over each others' creations.

In case you wish to know, weathering was simple:

1. Base coat flat black (el cheapo flat black from Lowe's....good stuff, too)
2. Restore rivet detail with Alclad Steel; then seal with Flat Matte spray
3. Add rust with Rustall...just brush the stuff on till you get what you want.
4. Dry brush boiler plates and high lights with Testor's Iron.
5. Flat matte spray to seal it all.
 
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