model building help

[Biased turkey]

I used some Dullcote ( sp? ) and didn't have any problem at all ) see the picture )
Some experts even suggest to warm the spraycan in some warm water but imho I consider it to be dangerous.

Jacques

 

[Glen Haasdyk]

I tend to spray the larger parts and detail paint later with a brush. I do have an airbrush but I don't use it excusivly when I spray.
Wal-mart usually has a good selection of spray-can paints. I stick up on flat black, white, grey primer, and red oxide primer (makes a great brick paint).
I do most of my detail painting with acrylic water based paint from the craft store (it's cheaper)
One thing about brush painting with acrylics. It will seem to go on heavy but since it's water based it will 'shrink' as it dries, revealing the detail as it does.

I too use the Krylon flat clear. It has to be shaken very well. I recently painted an express reefer with the krylon an it turned milky. I think it was partly because I didn't shake it up enough. A second coat turned the milky coat clear again though.

 

[shaygetz]

My biggest problem is that both Dul Cote and Krylon have a nasty habit of picking and choosing when they want to dry flat. Sometimes I get an annoying sheen that won't matte over, no matter how many coats I use...

 

[hickstmj]

Thank you for your advice everyone.

I have an airbrush but it is just a cheap one I got 10 or 12 years ago from one of those tool sales that come to town once in a while. I have never tried it & I don't have a paint booth so I was trying not to use it because I don't know how well it (I) will do. I guess it can't be any worse than what I've tried so far. I have mostly acrylic paints so I think I will try them thinned with alcohol. Do I clean the airbrush with alcohol also?

 

[doctorwayne]

Marcie, if the alcohol will thin the paint, then you can also use it to do the clean-up. I'm not a big fan of acrylics for airbrushing, but that's mainly because I learned on lacquer-based paints, and both types require their own technique. (the "old dog/new tricks business" - )
I have found that lowering the air pressure from what I normally would use does help to prevent clogging of the tip. If you're going to try the airbrush, practise on some cardboard. This will allow you to experiment with the effects of thinning (start with the paint manufacturer's recommendations), how varying air pressure changes the equation, and how distance from the object being painted and the speed of each pass will affect the final results. It'll also let you get comfortable with the "feel" of the whole operation. It's important to start the spray before you get to the object being painted and to end after you've passed it. Keep the airbrush moving, as stopping on the object will cause pooling and runs. Multiple thin coats are preferable to one or two heavy ones - the paint will dry to the touch almost immediately on contact - if you're too far away, it'll dry before contact, leaving a rough surface and weak finish.
Practise lots, but most importantly, have fun! :-D

Wayne

 

[Russ Bellinis]

Marcie, one thing to remember is that even water based acrylic paints are dangerous to breathe! You mentioned not having a spray booth. In Florida, that probably isn't a problem, but to be safe, do your spraying outside in the open air. You don't want to spray in an enclosed space. It would also be a good idea to go to your local Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever home center you frequent and pick up a good filter mask to protect your lungs from paint fumes.

 

[ScratchyAngel]

You can actually get good full respirator masks cheap on eBay. I think I paid about $20. You look like a goon from WWI, but they block just about everything. I actually wear it even when spraying water based too. I don't have a spray booth, but I put an second exhaust fan in the downstairs bathroom and it usually clears out the fumes quickly, but I still wear the mask and keep a few doors shut so the pets can't hover by the door.

 

[MasonJar]

This is a great respirator. I have one, and it works very well. I was afraid of feeling trapped, not getting good air flow, etc, etc. But it is light, fits well (comes in three sizes), and the air flow is great.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=31234&cat=1,42207,42220

CAN$60, so not as cheap as some, but hey, we're talking about your lungs...!

Andrew

 

[doctorwayne]

As Andrew notes, the fit of the respirator is as important as the filter cartridges. There should be adjustments for all straps - properly adjusted, a good respirator is comfortable to wear. To test for fit, first adjust the straps, then cover the cartridges with your hands and inhale. You should feel the body of the respirator pull tight against your face - if it doesn't, there is not a good seal between your face and the rubber. If you have a full beard, you may not be able to get a good seal.
For cartridges, use the two-stage type, often called a combination cartridge. Inside is a paper filter element, which removes the particulate matter (paint dust) and an activated charcoal element which removes the harmful vapours. When the paper becomes clogged, you will have difficulty getting enough air through the cartridge, indicating that it's time for fresh ones. If, while painting with lacquer-based paints, you begin to smell the paint, the charcoal element is past its "best-by" date, and the filters should be replaced. The ones that I use are from the Mine Safety Appliances Company, in Pittsburgh, and are approved for use with organic vapours (that includes paint fumes), acid gases, and particulates.

Wayne

 

[hickstmj]

Thank you one & all. I have not tried the airbrush yet, I am still trying the brush on this model. Second coat was a little better but still not great. I will take pictures.

 

[hickstmj]

Progress

Here's what I have done so far. I apologize for the quality of the pictures. I don't think my camera is made for close ups. I still haven't attempted airbrushing.
Looked better after the 2nd coat.



The tank only has one coat. I'm not sure if I want to try a 2nd coat or try the airbrush.


This is my Mothers Day present

 

[doctorwayne]

The tank only has one coat. I'm not sure if I want to try a 2nd coat or try the airbrush.

Sometimes the coverage of the first coat leaves a lot to be desired. However, it's often just enough that the second coat will cover well - as if you'd used a primer. Some of the colours in the old Polly S line of paints were like this.
Another way to get better coverage is to apply a primer first. I use Floquil paints, and like their Grey Primer. Any flat, grey paint would probably work, though, and you can get primer in spray cans. You could primer the tank by spraying or airbrushing, then paint the final colour by brush or with your airbrush. Regardless of which you choose, I'd suggest cementing the tank halves together before painting - that way, the paint can better hide the joints.

Wayne