HO Turntables

Stu McGee

New Member
I am in the process of laying track, code 100 w/ #6 turnouts and I am looking for options for a turntable. I do have MRC DCC and like it. Most of my rolling stock is vintage 1940-1950. But then there is the Zephyr, the Areotrain, and the turbo.
 

60103

Pooh Bah
I don't think you'll find on big enough for the Aerotrain. sign1


How big do you think you need and how much work do you want to put in?
You've probably seem the 9" Atlas one.
Peco makes a nice 12" one with built-in polarity reverse. It's a British prototype. but could be modified to look more American. Plastic kit; needs mechanism.
I think Bowser make a nice set of metal based ones.
 

nkp174

Active Member
You could also probably find the old Walthers 90' kit. There's also been the european 90'ers roaming the used tables for years. (Heijen?)

I picked up an unbuilt Model Masterpiece's kit, 100', a few years ago on ebay. Very nice looking TT.
 

steamhead

Active Member
A word of caution on the W's 90' kit. I built one and had to fuss to no end to get it to work half-way decently. Seemed as if the "pan" was slightly deformed and the bridge would not operate smoothly....
 

Stu McGee

New Member
Hey guys, I like the Peco turntable, it is not too european. I am looking at the 90 foot range. My Areotrain and Zephry are from my growing up in Chicago and seeing them both face to face. Thanks for the tip on the Walthers, I have noticed the need to fuss with the kits before.
 

hoppercarmaker

New Member
I have the Wathers 130 table and it is a very nice piece.
The only thing is, it has code 83 rail on the bridge.
Walthers makes transsion rails, but I have been waiting two years for them and their still on back order. :eek:
 

steamhead

Active Member
Can't you use code 83 on the approach tracks, and use the transition joiners to mate them to your code 100 (I presume 100..)..?
 

nkp174

Active Member
Forget the transition joiners, I've never seen anyone use them.

I've used the file method...filing the Code 100 down to 83 at the joiner.

I've also hear of shim methods...where the code 83 is raised. I've also hear of using a plain rail joiner to do this.
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
I have the Wathers 130 table and it is a very nice piece.
The only thing is, it has code 83 rail on the bridge.
Walthers makes transsion rails, but I have been waiting two years for them and their still on back order. :eek:

You can use the code 100 rail joiners to effect a transition: slip the joiners onto the code 100 rail, the use pliers to flatten the protruding ends. Don't overdo the flattening, as it's difficult to undo. :rolleyes: Use a file to chamfer the bottom of the end of the code 83 rail (to accommodate the partially flattened area of the joiner just beyond the end of the code 100 rail) then set the code 83 rails atop the flattened joiners - you may have to do a bit more "flattening" of the joiners to get the railtops to align perfectly. You may also have to insert a shim under the ties to provide full support and keep the rails level. When everything lines up, solder the rail joiner to the code 100 rails, and the code 83 rails to the tops of the flattened joiners.

What about diamond sacle TTs, are they any good?

The Diamond Scale turntable kits make into a nice-looking turntable, but some kit-building experience is an asset if you wish to build one. I built one for my good friend cn nutbar, but found the precut pit to be out-of-round, along with other small defects.
430013_005.jpg


(Picture courtesy of Mister Nutbar) ;)

The indexing system works well, too.

Wayne
 
Top