On Track, with Deano

Kevinkrey

Member

Alright, Deano, what did you use to weather the rails with? just tell me one last time :eek:ops: wall1

Im going to write it down and tape it to my forehead this time :twisted:

Sorry TruckLover, I have no answer for you, but I was wondering the same thing.

 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Kevin & Josh:wav: , i used Floquil rust, and airbrushed it on the rails:winki: , THANKS for asking:mrgreen: .

I use my own rust mix for weathering, and really, i should have used that on the rails:eek:ops: , i think it looks a little more realistic:winki: . for my weathering rust i use a couple drops of Polly Scale "Milwaukee Road Orange" mixed with a couple drops of Polly Scale "Boxcar Red" , then i reduce it with Isoproyl alcohol:winki: .

:deano: -Deano
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Kevin & Josh:wav: , i used Floquil rust, and airbrushed it on the rails:winki: , THANKS for asking:mrgreen: .

I use my own rust mix for weathering, and really, i should have used that on the rails:eek:ops: , i think it looks a little more realistic:winki: . for my weathering rust i use a couple drops of Polly Scale "Milwaukee Road Orange" mixed with a couple drops of Polly Scale "Boxcar Red" , then i reduce it with Isoproyl alcohol:winki: .

:deano: -Deano

ahhhh thanks Deano :cool: :mrgreen:
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Thanks, Deano, did you paint the ties as well? Hard to tell in that pic.
...on this layout...yes:eek:ops: , but it worked out OK really:winki: . i took 1000 grit sand paper and lightly sanded the paint off the ties after the paint was dry, it ended up turning the ties an off brown color:thumb: . i didn't worry about the areas right next to the rails, as the tie plates would be rusty too:winki: . on previous layouts i taped between the rails, and the outside of the ties, again, not worrying if any rust color hit the tie plate areas:winki: .

my advice to you, tape the job, makes it less trouble looking good:winki: .

i only use rust on sidings and any tracks off the mainlines, on the mainlines i paint the rails black, this signifies oil/grease/Midwestern dirt and steam era soot(if your doing steam) collected on the rails:thumb: . i like doing my rails this way, some don't like it:toug: , the choice is yours:winki: .

:deano: -Deano
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Herc Driver

Active Member
Ah Deano your pictures make me want to hurry up and start my shelf-based switching layout...but my schedule is too tight for that now. Drat. So I guess I'll have to just sit back and enjoy the great pictures of a well done layout (and copy the best ideas that I'll use on my shelf layout btw).
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Herc:wav: , THANK YOU for the complement:mrgreen: . i hope work slows down for you, so you can get started on your switching layout:thumb: . i ALWAYS REALLY LIKED your other layout:thumb: , you done a STUPENDOUS JOB on it:bravo: , really Herc, it was quite AWESOME:winki::mrgreen: . i cant wait to see what you'll have in store next:thumb: .

:deano: -Deano
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Nazgul

Active Member
Herc...I have to second Deano's remarks about your work:
It is absolutely beautiful:thumb::thumb::thumb: and I have to keep reminding myself that it is N scale:eek:.....That just makes it even more spectacular! Can't wait to see what's next!
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
What are you using on your locos for the all weather windows Deano?

More great pics as always!
Kevin, for all weather windows i use Detail Associates brand #CB2301, and all weather windows that came from Proto and Atlas engines:thumb: . UP isn't that big on all weather windows, their thing is sunshades, so any engines i get with all weather windows in the box, i rarely use them:rolleyes: . i look up pics of every engine i get and try and replicate my models to them:winki: , very few UP's have all weather windows, so i don't use many of them.

**Just added some pics, not related to what the topic at hand:eek:ops: , but i thought this page needed more pics:winki: .
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CROSS1.JPG

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:deano: -Deano
 

UP SD40-2

Senior Member
Deano's SPOTLIGHT

Welcome to Deano's "SPOTLIGHT" series...

MY very first Spotlight will be on an engine i have admired at the IRM for years, Its Southwest Portland Cement Co. #409 Fairbanks-Morse H20-44.
:mrgreen::thumb::mrgreen:

The Portland Cement #409 had a very interesting past, this engine started life out in august 1947 as an FM demonstrator #2000 Builder Number # L1032. it was bought by the Union Pacific on 10/47 and numbered #1366 . This engine was just one of eleven FM H20-44's that UP bought, ALL of them were extensively used as helpers on the Cajon Pass.
in 1963 the Union Pacific sold this engine to the Southwest Portland Cement Co. in Victorville Cal.

The SWPC renumbered this engine #409, and it spent the rest of its working life with them until 1985.
#409 now resides at the IRM, waiting for enough funds to be restored .

SIDE NOTES:
Folks, i have pictures of this engine when it was Union Pacific's #1366 , sadly the pics were NOT taken by me:cry: , so i cannot post them on here, as to stay out of legal problems:rolleyes: . i noticed when this engine was UP's, it had HUGE spark arresters on the exhaust stacks, a radio platform on the fireman's side of the cab, and on the gray part of the walkway close to the front steps it was clearly lettered "Los Angeles". i also noticed the slanted venting you see on the side of the long hood above the hood hand railing(pic 3 shows a good shot of this:winki: ) was an add on by the SWPC Co., that was not an FM factory part, nor was it on any of the UP pics i have of this engine. and lastly, this engine came with full length outer side railings, and UP had them on it when it was theirs, the SWPC obviously took them off:winki: .

The pics you see are just a couple that were taken by me over the past few years, i hope the funds to restore this engine come soon, it gets worse each year i see it:frowns: .

Notice the picture of the info plate that hangs on this engine, it states this engine was originally UP #1369 , the IRM has since went through this engine and found that it WAS NOT #1369, but IS IN FACT #1366...quite odd that they haven't removed the plate since their findings:confused: . (pic 4)

FM's H20-44's were the most powerfull locomotives of its time, FM held this record again with its H24-66 Trainmaster. NO other Locomotive manufacturer could touch either of these units at the time they came out:thumb: .

FROM THE MODELERS SIDE...
Unfortunately, at the present, the only way you would be able to buy an H20-44 would be in brass. i believe one could be kitbashed buy using the cab from Walther's H10-44 and putting it on Atlas's H15-44, extending the long front hood would also have to be done.
it would take some doing...but it could be done:winki: , though rather expensive to do:eek:ops: .

TILL NEXT TIME...STAY ON TRACK!
:deano: -Deano
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