Structure "Do-over"

[scubadude]

I just picked up a couple of buildings from a swap meet that someone had already built. I really like the buildings, but the quality of construction is not very good. I would like to tear them apart and rebuild them for my layout. Any advice on how to pull off this "do-over" project? Specifically the glue joints are sloppy with a lot of excess glue. Hot water? A big hammer???? sign1 I only paid a couple of bucks for them, so it is not that big a deal one way or the other....

 

[MasonJar]

It depends on the type of glue. If the joint is really sloppy, there's a good chance it is a weak joint. A little cutting/prying from the inside and some pressure may pop it apart. Freezing sometimes helps with superglue (different contraction rates of plastic and glue weakens joint). If they are plastic and have been "welded" with a solvent glue, then you'll likely have to cut all the way through, as any two pieces have been melted into one.

Good luck!

Andrew

 

[train1]

Try using exacto knives to gently shave the 'over glued' or misfitting areas. Repair, putty, repaint and add a little chalk. Even the worse 'previously enjoyed' kit can be restored.

 

[Herc Driver]

I have been told that if you stick the buildings in the freezer for 5 or 10 minutes or so it allows the bonds of the glue to break easier. I was told this works best with most "super glue" types. I've tried this myself and it did work...with no breakage of the plastic parts - only the glue line.

 

[scubadude]

Try using exacto knives to gently shave the 'over glued' or misfitting areas. Repair, putty, repaint and add a little chalk. Even the worse 'previously enjoyed' kit can be restored.

Thanks, Train1. I think I will try that on one of the buildings. The molded brickwork is pretty much ruined already in a couple of small places, so I think it won't hurt much to scrape a little here and there. I think I will try to make it look like it was repaired with stucco or something like that. Then I won't really have to take it apart. :thumb: Good time to practice a little heavy weathering....

 

[scubadude]

I have been told that if you stick the buildings in the freezer for 5 or 10 minutes or so it allows the bonds of the glue to break easier. I was told this works best with most "super glue" types. I've tried this myself and it did work...with no breakage of the plastic parts - only the glue line.

Thanks, Herc. Mason Jar suggested the same thing, so it must work. I've admired both your layouts and what works for you will certainly work for me :thumb:. So into the freezer they will go. I may try to post a thread to show how it works, (or not sign1). BTW Herc, my Dad flew the C130 Hercules Blackbird in the 70's at Pope AFB..

 

[stripes]

Hey Richard, you could always stucco coat some of the brick buildings. I have made stucco with drywall mud, water and acrylic paint mixed to a creamy consistancy and colored to suit. That will hide the imperfections quite well.

David

 

[RailRon]

Another possibility, when the brick structure on the outer walls has been smeared and crazed with glue - but the joints themselves are straight and hold together well:

Often the worst areas are concentrated along a vertical jont, mostly on the building's corners. So why not add climbing vines?
(Of course, if you are modeling an arid area like the Southwest, a dense cover of vines will be not very common, but in areas with lots of rain whole brick buildings can almost be "wrapped up" with vines, e.g. in the Northeast of the USA.)

An easy way to get this effect is to "paint" plastic cement over the crazed areas, outlining the future vine coverage of the facade. The surface will become tacky. Then dab on Woodland Scenics foam in the appropriate colors for your chosen season (from light to dark green, even orange/red in the fall).

Try it first on a piece of wall which won't be easily seen by the visitors.

Ron

 

[scubadude]

Awesome idea, Ron. I will definitely do that, even to some buildings that don't need "help"....:thumb: