New layout in the works.

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Nice Shaun, Im liking how thats turning out :thumb: :thumb:

I think you can get at least one more refinery in there if you wanted too :thumb: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

nolatron

Member
I think you can get at least one more refinery in there if you wanted too :thumb: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I was kinda thinking the same thing sign1

I've got a filling station kit enroute to go up on the tracks for tankers, and thinking of maybe getting a larger storage tank. That little one I got of ebay, but it's...well...little.

Too bad the Cornerstone tanks are impossible to find these days for N-Scale. :(

Plus I need a little office building. I may get another BLMA yard office and use it for the Refinery too.

One I get that all in place, then we'll see if there's room for another column. I'd probably get another kit, and kitbash it for just some additional piping to the piperack and columns, and leave off the heater unit.
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
I was kinda thinking the same thing sign1

I've got a filling station kit enroute to go up on the tracks for tankers, and thinking of maybe getting a larger storage tank. That little one I got of ebay, but it's...well...little.

Too bad the Cornerstone tanks are impossible to find these days for N-Scale. :(

Nice, good idea to have the filling racks, imma have 8 of them (2 rows of 4) in my refinery, that takes up the place of where I wanted the 3rd refinery kit to go lol

And I hear you about the N scale tanks being impossble to find, good thing im doing this one in HO scale lol

Plus I need a little office building. I may get another BLMA yard office and use it for the Refinery too.

One I get that all in place, then we'll see if there's room for another column. I'd probably get another kit, and kitbash it for just some additional piping to the piperack and columns, and leave off the heater unit.

The BLMA yard office is really nice, I plan to get one too to use somewhere on my layout, I dont know where but I want at least one of them, they look really cool and detailed.

My refinery will have everything kitbashed together, I think it might look cool with 2 heater units sticking up, not sure if im going to put them right next to each other or if I will put one on each end.
 

nolatron

Member
not sure if im going to put them right next to each other or if I will put one on each end.

"spookshow" kitbashed two together on this n-scale layout, with the heaters opposite each other.

N-Scale Model Railroad #3

Scroll down a little ways till you see the pics of his refinery.

I may also use a Model Power refinery office kit like he did too instead of the BLMA office. Might also work as a truck filling station too.
 

nolatron

Member
I think I'm gonna do the bridge span across the entry doors like the CSX bridge over the Bay Saint Louis bay in Mississippi.

IMG_8122.jpg


Using BLMA's soon to be released concrete bridge sections:

BLMA Models - N Scale Scenery Accessories
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
"spookshow" kitbashed two together on this n-scale layout, with the heaters opposite each other.

N-Scale Model Railroad #3

Scroll down a little ways till you see the pics of his refinery.

I may also use a Model Power refinery office kit like he did too instead of the BLMA office. Might also work as a truck filling station too.

WOW thats one awesome lil layout!!!! I like how he did his refinery. I like that paper mill and Red Wing Flour Mill complex too :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Nice bridge, that should look cool :thumb: :thumb:

Yeah, that blinking light does look pretty cheazy lol, but without it it would look much better, they need to make more refinery stuff in N scale
 

nolatron

Member
Found a blinky tank on ebay for $12 shipped, so I nabbed it. I'll cut off the light, and airbrush it stainless steel (same color as the refinery) and eventually weather it some.
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Found a blinky tank on ebay for $12 shipped, so I nabbed it. I'll cut off the light, and airbrush it stainless steel (same color as the refinery) and eventually weather it some.

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: Nice find and buy. Should look WAY better without that blinking light on there and then painted and weathered :thumb: :mrgreen:
 

nolatron

Member
Back to the old drawing board... At least that's what it's looking like for the helix.

After trying to go an easy route, I've been plagued with nothing but problems with the helix, from constructions problems to discovered sagging warping wood this morning.

I used hobby wood as spacers to fix the problems, but I don't know how long this helix will survive in this condition so I"m looking into starting over and cutting my loss.
wall1

At least I can use the pieces of this helix as templates for cutting.
 

nolatron

Member
So after trying to salvage what I could from the helix project, I managed to get all the track pretty level making a smooth climb through the levels. It was useable to change levels, almost...

Only two of my Kato engines could make climb. Everything else stalled and wheel slipped. Even two engines of low traction had trouble sometimes.

So in the end, I think the grade is gonna be the killer on the helix project. While I could make a helix (even if built 100% perfect) work, I'm not sure I want to put that constant strain on the engines and rolling stock.

So, now what? Well. I'm thinking a lift/elevator. I'm thinking of using an RV scissor jack with a 15"x36" piece of 1/4" plywood attached to the top. A train will have to go onto the platform in a curve inside the alcove. The jack is able to raise up 24", so it's got plenty of room there (only need 17").

Then just attach a motor, and voila, motorized elevator.

While it's not the most ideal way to change levels, it might be my only way (unless a I drill a hole in the wall and run a train to the garage to a helix. But I think the wife would kill me.)
 

nolink5750

New Member
A couple questions

I'd like to say nice project so far. I'd like to ask, what is your min. radius curve you are using? What is your min. turn out you are using? Also, what length cars will you be running. I have a project I just started with a 16" level just above 6'-8" door height. I'm going with 19" radius and #6 turnouts. Just wanted to ask what yours was. Keep the pics coming this is great
 

nolatron

Member
I'm using 19" radius curves as my minimum on the mainline. The helix (or soon to be lift) is 16.25".

Mainline Turnouts for sidings are #10, while industry and yard turnouts are #7.

Longest car is probably my Kato Amtrak IV passenger cars, though I do plan on getting some Red Caboose Bi-level auto racks.
 

KMInspector

New Member
Hey look at ashlindesigns.com, they have a pre fabricated helix and for both HO and N scale. I have one and have never had a problem with it.

Tim
 

nolatron

Member
That's actually where the one I have came from. Most of my problems were caused by my own self by not paying 100% attention during assembly.

But I still think even if built correctly, I have to steep a grade, almost 3%. I apparently made a slight miscalculation originally.
 

nolatron

Member
Taco Bell finally got their signs delivered this weekend for their Elmwood location (and got a "tar" roof coating too).



Dixie Yard got their Engine house building up. They still need to lay down some concrete inside on the service tracks, and install a service platform outside.


Pizza Hut broke ground on a new location in Elmwood this past week too. I guess a little friendly competition with the Dominoes that's going to be under construction soon down the block.


Luckily the messed up name will be facing the backdrop. :)

A new corner gas station is rumored to be coming to Elmwood and Marathon's South City Refinery has two large storage tanks on order from Kibri, enroute from Europe.
 

nolatron

Member
Commence Operation: Save Helix

Tearing my hair out trying to figure out out to "bridge the gap" between my two levels, I decided to give the helix one more shot.

This evening I managed to break up the helix and save all of the curved wood cutouts. So this will save me a lotta time/money. Just need to remove all the little wedge pieces I added to try and save the original build.



Also got the track off too, just need to clean off some off the hot glue.



I plan on rebuilding using eyehooks attached to the cutouts, and some nuts on 20" steel rods. This will allow me to adjust levels on the fly and get a real smooth ride up. Like this:

Helix

*Hopefully* this will give me a workable helix.
 

nolink5750

New Member
Let me know how it works cause I'm going to need one and I'll be interested on how yours turns out. Keep up the good work :thumb:
 

nolatron

Member
Went to Lowes last night and picked up 16 20" 1/4 Allthread rods, and a last 3 6"x1" plates they had, and 200 1/4" nutes. I'll hit Home Depot and Ace for the rest of the plates.

I went with plates instead of eyehooks for running the rods through because this wood I already have is to thin to securely screw in a large enough eyehook.

I'm pretty excited to see how it all turns out.

P.S. Internettrains.com has *still* not issued a $300+ refund for my cancel ordered over a month ago. 3 phone calls and still nothing. I'll be calling again today to "remind" them. Not sure what other measure I'll need to take.

If you ever think about ordering from these guys.... run away...fast.
 
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